POLICY UPDATES IN THE ERA OF COVID

F05ECB28-6110-43D6-9991-58129B954D99_1_201_a.jpg

COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

Read the full article to find out about the issues to have on your radar.

Honest Thoughts About Therapy as a Climber

What is therapy? What is a therapist supposed to do? How do you find one? How do you know if you need one? How do you know if yours is any good? Societal stigma around mental health makes the answers to these questions difficult to find.

And yet, mental health is slowly making its way into the mainstream conversation in climbing communities. It’s coming up around death, loss, trauma, risk—all in some ways inherently tied to the particular experience of climbing. It’s also coming up around more insidious, silent struggles like body image, performance, depression, and anxiety. What’s not yet mainstream is how or when to engage in therapy, or conversations about what exactly therapy is.

I often talk with people about how to find a therapist, choose a therapist, or where to start with therapy. This list of thoughts is a summary of those conversations, with special thought given to climbers and the climbing community. I think the climbing community has an inherent advantage in addressing mental health, in that it is such a community.

I have, in no other domain of my life, walked up to a stranger and so easily become their friend. The stoke, the excitement, the welcoming energy is overwhelming. And yet, we still suffer. We suffer the same as anyone else, and in some ways, uniquely, as a result of risks we’re willing to take to experience the wild, boundless joy of climbing.

I know about the wild, boundless joy. And, as a therapist, I know about the darker, shadow-side of things. Climbers, in my experience, also have access to an extraordinary range of emotional experience—from the darkest shadows and doubts to the most profound delight. Therapy can expand and restore access to this range. It can alleviate suffering and open new mental space for connection and relationships. It can help you be more present and authentic in your life.

What is Therapy?

At its core, therapy is a relationship. The relationship can be between a therapist and a client, or a therapist and several clients in a group. It can look really different, depending on the setting and the people involved. What happens in therapy, too, can look really different. But the main idea is that through this relationship, you develop a space where you can explore yourself—your identities, experiences, and relationships—and through this exploration, grow and change. Sometimes this change is necessary because of pain or suffering, and sometimes it’s voluntary. Sometimes therapy is incited by a traumatic event or loss. Sometimes someone wants a change, or feels something is off in their relationships. Sometimes people struggle making decisions or don’t feel that they don’t know themselves. There are infinite reasons to seek therapy, and none is inappropriate or wrong.

What is a Therapist?

Think of your therapist as your mental belayer. A therapist is your partner, your supporter. Their job is to help you, and even though they’re a person in their own right, during the process of therapy, you are their focus. They can’t climb for you, or even really with you, but they can make sure you don’t fall too far. A key part of therapy is trusting your therapist, which is why choosing one matters. This doesn’t mean you’ll like them all the time, or that they’ll never disappoint you, but the strength of the therapeutic relationship is one of the strongest predictors of good outcomes. So find someone with whom you feel a genuine connection, for whatever reason that might be.

You Get to Choose Your Therapist

This may seem obvious, but it’s incredibly important, and in times of stress or pain, it’s easily overshadowed by other things. You always have agency in your own mental health. This agency begins with choosing a therapist, and continues in every session. Don’t like the way things are going? Say something. Feel uncomfortable? Mention it. This is often easier said than done because of the power dynamics in therapist/client relationships, but that’s why it’s worth reiterating. Hopefully, in an effort to address this dynamic, your therapist will ask you if it’s going okay and provide opportunities for you to give feedback. If you still feel like it’s not a good fit, find another therapist. That’s totally okay.

Read Beneath Their Profile

Therapists write blurblettes about themselves for potential clients to find, and many of them are similar. We’re all required to meet more or less the same training standards, etc., so if someone is a therapist, chances are they’re going to have a lot in common with other therapists. Except we’re all individuals, too. Search for that individuality. In what field was their undergraduate degree? Do they say anything else about themselves? Would it change something if you knew they shared some axis of your identity? Finding a provider through the Climbing Grief Fund is a great example. At baseline, you know they know something about climbing. Things like that can be important points of connection, and can help you feel safe and understood.

Ask for a Consultation

Since fit matters so much, ask to talk to several therapists in a more casual way before starting work together. It’s very often a free service and can give you a lot of information. Talking to more than one can help you start to suss out the differences if you’ve got no idea what you want in a therapist.

Think About What You Want Therapy to Be

Therapy is very rarely a back and forth exchange of sequential childhood traumas and silent, thoughtful Mhms. Sometimes it is, but often not. Therapy is collaborative and generative and exploratory. It’s about curiosity and fantasy and possibility. Thinking ahead of time about what it is you’d like to get out of therapy, even if it’s a simple or vague idea, can be useful in directing the work. Maybe you don’t want to think about ____ anymore, or you feel lonely. The answer to this question might be obvious, or it might not. Either way, it can help you in your search for a therapist, especially if you’re looking for something in particular, like someone who specializes in grief or anxiety or postpartum issues.

Be Prepared—Therapy Will be Work

Therapy, healing, progress, change, growth. However you want to think of what it is you’re working toward in therapy, it’s probably going to be hard. You may feel worse before you feel better. The most rewarding projects often progress this way, too. This is why you need your therapist to be the most psyched and supportive mental-belayer ever. In the rough moments, they’ll make sure you don’t quit.

What If I Can’t Afford It

This is a real question. Insurance and media portrayals often make access to therapy seem like a luxury, but caring for your mental health is just as important as taking care of your physical health, and there are affordable options.

If you have insurance, call and talk to someone about how your benefits apply to therapy (they often call it mental health or behavioral health). There may even be some reimbursement if your therapist is out of network.

If you don’t have insurance, many out-of-pocket providers offer sliding scale fees based on income, and some community mental health centers offer even more affordable sliding scale options. Group therapy can also be a cheaper option—it’s is a super cool, lesser-known modality of treatment where you get to do your own work supported by a group, and witness and support the work of others. Finding these resources may take some research, but they are out there.

And if it’s just financially impossible to spend any money on therapy right now, that’s okay too. Many communities offer 12 step programs. These meetings are always free and often frequent, and though the model is based on recovery from substance use, the recovery-oriented principals have been applied to lots of different mental health challenges like depression and anxiety.

I’d also still recommend thinking about what it is you want to work on, and searching for books or other free resources. The CGF has some psychoeducation here and resources here, and there are others, gathered by the practice where I work, here.

Outside of any treatment, you can take care of yourself in small, everyday ways that impact your emotional wellbeing. You can climb, eat well, and sleep. You can make small changes. You can sit in the sun, have a dance party, forgive yourself. You can do whatever moves you. You can seek out human connection that feels authentic, and ask others for help when you need it.

There is Nothing Wrong With You

For anyone seeking therapy: there is nothing wrong with you. Humans struggle. Being alive is complicated, unexpected, and sometimes painful. We are all impacted by our environment and our relationships. Feeling as though one needs help is not a sign of weakness. Vulnerability is not a sign of weakness. Thinking you might need therapy is not evidence of impairment. We all need support sometimes.

Climb Hard and Feel As Much As You Can

I sincerely believe it’s possible to do both.


Anna Kim has a Masters in Social Work from Smith College and is currently an Associate Psychotherapist at Kindman & Co. in Los Angeles, CA where she is supervised by Paul Kindman, LMFT. She’s also a climber, thru-hiker, and general adventurer—with a particular love of slab. Send her an email at [email protected]

Policy updates in the era of COVID

COVID19 is inundating the national news cycle—and it should be. During this global pandemic, people want the latest information about the virus and how to best protect themselves and those around them. It can be hard to consider attacks on the environment when many are working at the front lines of the epidemic, have lost jobs or income, or are experiencing the sudden responsibility of caring for family members.

While we adapt to this new “normal”, the government is still chugging along making decisions that affect our public lands and waters. 

Recently, we’ve witnessed some issues that gave us pause for concern. During a time of media overload, government officials are working without the same level of public scrutiny, and some appear to be exploiting this opportunity.

In a time of national crisis, the government should press pause on all non-essential activities, just like the rest of us. But over the past few weeks we’ve observed government officials loosening regulations on polluters, pushing anti-environmental rule makings without sufficient public engagement, making final decisions on land use plans, and even hosting lease sales of oil, gas, and coal on public lands.

All government efforts should be focused on the current crisis and ensuring that every American is supported throughout. 

While many members of Congress have called for a halt to actions such as the proposed changes to the regulations implementing the National Environmental Policy Act, the administration seems to be pushing their “energy dominance” agenda forward. This may have to do with fast approaching deadlines imposed by the Congressional Review Act, a law that could allow the next administration to erase any rule or regulation implemented later this year. 

The American Alpine Club has put our outdoor endeavors on hold temporarily, but we’re still keeping an eye on what’s happening behind the scenes. We want to distill some of what we’ve seen to catch you up to speed.

ISSUES TO HAVE ON YOUR RADAR

Suspect candidates continue being placed in high-ranking land management positions

Department of the Interior Secretary David Bernhardt—a former lobbyist for oil, gas, and agricultural industries–is in charge of managing 700 million acres of American public lands. Among his many responsibilities are to oversee public land managers at agencies like the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) where in January, he extended the tenure of Director to a person who expressed anti-public lands ideology in the past and was not formally confirmed by the typical process in the Senate. Most recently, Bernhardt appointed Edward Keable, a longtime associate of Bernhardt’s, to oversee Grand Canyon National Park (GCNP) as Superintendent. Keable’s lack of formal experience within the National Park Service (NPS) is concerning at a time when the GCNP faces continued threats of uranium mining and a controversial development project on the Park’s iconic South Rim—a project that Bernhardt’s old lobbying firm strongly supports. Not only does this appointment take the opportunity away from qualified NPS career employees, but it yet again demonstrates the current administration's lack of commitment to protecting public lands by undermining leadership positions at land management agencies.

National Park Fees were waived before more than half of Parks close their gates

While many National Parks and other public lands have since decided to shut their gates in order to maintain social distancing orders, protect their staff, and reduce crowding—a responsible move that should be commended—Secretary Bernhardt’s initial response to the COVID pandemic was to waive all national parks fees and leave the parks open. Similar to the government shutdown of 2019, National Parks were inundated with visitors ready to explore the nation’s public lands. Typically, these visitation numbers and new visitor groups would be celebrated. However, risk of exposure to the novel coronavirus amongst park employees and gateway communities led many towns and counties to request the closure of their nearby public lands. At this point more than half of the 62 National Parks have closed their gates to the public.

The EPA is loosening its hold on critical environmental standards

The EPA decided to suspend enforcement on various environmental laws allowing companies to not satisfy important health and environmental standards during the COVID-19 pandemic. While the policy change is temporary, and the “EPA will assess the continued need for and scope of this temporary policy on a regular basis”, there is no end date in sight as the pandemic presses on. Vague language encouraging entities to “make every effort to comply with environmental compliance obligations” amounts essentially to a massive hall pass for dirty corporations who are no longer required by the EPA to monitor their pollution. Without clear understanding on when the COVID pandemic will end, it is highly irresponsible for the EPA to allow industry to utilize the pandemic as a free pass.

Agency rulemaking charges forward amidst calls from Congress to stop

New research from the Center for Western Priorities found that the Interior Department executed 57 separate policy actions unrelated to COVID-19, occurring after President Trump signed the first emergency Coronavirus bill on March 6th. Many of these decisions resulted in the expansion of oil and gas leases, removal of protections for wildlife, or increased mining operations across the country. Despite numerous requests from members of Congress and State officials for Secretary Bernhardt to suspend rulemakings during the pandemic, it appears the Interior has opted to push through policy with limited public input. Americans should not be required to find and comment on rulemakings when they are experiencing such upheaval in their daily lives. 

CEQ and USFS continue to chip away at NEPA

The National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA), widely regarded as the “Magna Carta” of environmental law, has been under relentless attack over the past year. You may recall this past summer the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) was considering sweeping changes to how it implements NEPA that would drastically limit engagement on up to 93% of USFS projects. More recently, the Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) is attempting to rewrite the rules that implement NEPA. The proposed rule would drastically restrict public engagement in future environmental analysis, limit the scope of environmental reviews, and cut out important tools for combating climate change. Both the USFS and CEQ are working through their revisions now, and the AAC and our partners are keeping a close eye on their progress. It’s important to stay vigilant at times when the Federal government seems to be limiting important checks and balances.

SOME GOOD NEWS

Okay, that was heavy and we get there’s no absence of stress inducing news right now. So, to leave things on a high-note, here are a couple golden nuggets to celebrate.

The Great American Outdoors Act gets a look

You may recall back in early March (what feels like a lifetime ago) when the President called on Congress to fund public lands, kicking off a bi-partisan package called The Great American Outdoors Act (GAOA). The bill includes all sorts of good things that we, and out partners at the Outdoor Alliance, have been advocating for. Things like permanent funding for the LWCF and addressing maintenance backlogs on public lands through the Restore our Parks Act. Congress is rightly focused on addressing the coronavirus response but at some point in the future, they’ll turn their attention to infrastructure bills like GAOA to help the country rebuild. In the meantime, you can learn more about GAOA and write your lawmakers in support of the package. Expect to hear more from us on this package soon.

The 50th Anniversary of Earth Day is around the corner

While the typical celebrations and rallies for Earth Day won't be happening in person this year, many organizations are bringing their efforts online. Check out the Digital Earth Day events happening all over the globe! The first earth day in 1970 was propagated due to poor air and water quality across the country (not to mention that some rivers were literally on fire!). Due to the incredible advocacy of people at all levels of government, our nation has made incredible strides in environmental conservation. Take a moment to celebrate our progress as environmental advocates on April 22.

Photo Credit: Amelia Howe

Give a Belay, Get a Belay

Get_A_Belay_Banner_Text.jpg

What can 25,000 members do to support each other? How many many fellow members can we support in this time of crisis?

We’ve created a network for AAC members who are part of the at-risk population, or are currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, to get a belay (a grocery run, a pharmacy stop, etc.) from fellow members in the area with the capacity to help.

GIVE A BELAY

If you’re an AAC member who has the capacity to help, fill out this form. Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

GET A BELAY

Are you an AAC member who is currently quarantined at home due to COVID-19 illness, or part of the at-risk population? Do you need help with a grocery or pharmacy run? Fill out this form, email us at [email protected], or call us at 303-384-0110 to get a belay from a fellow member.

Spread the word—if you know someone that could use this assistance, please share the form, email address or phone number with them.

NEW! Clubhouse Live, a virtual events series

Clubhouse_Live_IG.jpg

Introducing the dynamic new events series from our couch to yours!

While we all adjust to new normals, the AAC is creating a new way to connect: Clubhouse Live, a virtual weekly gathering hosted by members of our community. It’s a chance for us to come together from our homes, to learn something new, and to meet our fellow climbers. We don’t have to share a rope to share the stoke—climb on into the Clubhouse!

Coming Up:

  • Chelsea Rude, Tuesday, March 31 at 6pm MST

  • Brette Harrington with Madaleine Sorkin + the Climbing Grief Fund, Thursday, April 9 at 6pm MST

United We Climb, Virtually

CLIMBERS: TAKE ACTION AGAINST CORONAVIRUS

Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer a set of guiding principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.


aac_covid-ig-01.jpg

Dear Friends, 

The COVID-19 pandemic is unprecedented and impacts us all. Our community must act thoughtfully to “flatten the curve” to reduce transmissions of the virus over time.

We are concerned about transmission of COVID-19 to rural or gateway communities. These remote towns often have limited access to medical facilities and their closely-knit, interconnected social structures are more prone to the spread of infection. 

Please keep places like Bishop, Fayetteville, Moab, Springdale, and Slade as safe as possible by limiting recreation-based travel at this time. If you have a trip planned, please reschedule until we are through this health emergency. This is not the time to head to the desert or rally to your favorite national park for “social distancing.” While outdoor time is necessary for each of us during this turbulent period, we need to stay local and limit our interaction with vulnerable communities.

 Consider also keeping outdoor objectives conservative to reduce the load on the medical system. Backcountry emergencies contribute to overloading hospitals and potential shortages of ventilators in intensive care units. As always, be safe out there and mindful of unnecessary risks.

Finally, we all should follow the directions outlined in the CDC’s guide on how to keep yourself and others safe from the virus. It’s necessary that we as a climbing community make decisions from the perspective of the most vulnerable people in our community.

Screen Shot 2020-03-18 at 11.35.06 AM.png

The AAC is certain that the climbing community can be a part of the solution to COVID-19 by taking collective action now.

Respectfully, 

Your Club

PS—Learn about updates to our lodging facilities in light of COVID-19.


The Greatest Benefit to Membership

During this unprecedented time of self-quarantines and social distancing many of us have found that we have some extra free time. Time to read. Time to watch movies. Time to plan for the next big trip when things return to normal. The American Alpine Club Library is currently closed to the public indefinitely to limit person to person contact but we will still be doing our best to keep book mail going. If you don’t know about the book mail membership benefit now is the time to become acquainted.

As AAC members you have access to the Henry S. Hall American Alpine Club Library!

This benefit allows you to checkout up to 10 items at a time. We’ll ship the items to you for free! Your only cost is the return shipping. Checkout periods are 35 days and you just have to get the book in the mail heading back to us by the due date.

To checkout books log into your Library profile at: booksearch.americanalpineclub.org First time users will have to notify us to set up their Library account; the best way to do that is for you to send an email to [email protected] and we’ll be able to create your account with the information from the main AAC member database.

We will carry on with book mail as long as there is no link to transferring the virus through the mail and as long as we are able to make it into the Library to ship the materials. If the Denver metro area goes into a shelter in place protocol or another similar quarantine then we will not be able to continue shipping books.

For some ideas on what to read two of our librarians put a list together of some of their favorite books last year for the REI climbing blog which can be seen at https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/aac-librarians-top-favorite-climbing-books Be sure to look at the comments of the post for other great recommendations as well!

A few of our Utah guidebooks

To prepare for your next trip we have both the hiking and climbing guides you need for planning the trip, and we have the how-to-guides that can teach you the techniques you need to know.

Need to learn how to climb?

Not sure what to read or want to recommend a book? Leave a comment below.

LODGING CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

Karuna Mira Sah photo.

We understand that our shared outdoor places are more important than ever. In an effort to protect local communities and follow state and national recommendations, as of March 17, all AAC facilities will remain closed to the public and to members. Additionally, we will be closing primitive camping at all facilities. Reservations are open for dates after May 8 (June 6 for GTCR). Refunds and modifications will be made without penalty for dates prior to April 30. As the situation relaxes or progresses, dates are subject to change. We appreciate your support, adaptability, and understanding during this time.

We encourage you to find local trails, hikes, and rides, or whatever you may have access to—a walk in the park, a run with your dog. Maintain appropriate distances from others you may encounter (at least six feet), wash your hands frequently, continue to leave no trace, breathe fresh air, and be grateful for the wild places we have.  

During this pandemic we encourage folks to stay local. Traveling puts everyone around us at risk. Many of the communities we travel to for our outdoor pursuits are small, isolated, and unexposed. Many of them may not have the medical or financial resources to mitigate COVID-19. So, please stay home. Play in the yard. Find ways to be a good steward to your local community, not just your climbing community. If you’re able, purchase gift cards online from local businesses and donate to mutual aid programs to help those out of work. If you’re extra able, please donate to us! We are keeping up the good fight—educating climbers and focusing on policy to keep our wild places wild. 

Soon, we will all be outside together again!



Phil Powers: Farewell to A Visionary Leader

“I believed that with real work the AAC could not only provide membership benefits and community, but also be a positive force in the larger world. So I embarked on what has been a most fulfilling journey.”

Dive into this exhibit to learn about one of the AAC’s most influential CEOs, his legacy, and what inspired him to shape the Club the way he did.

Phil Powers: Farewell

ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER CORONAVIRUS UPDATE

We will host the upcoming Annual Benefit Dinner virtually on Saturday, March 14 at 5 p.m. MDT, the in-person gathering is cancelled.

In an effort to lead in good decision-making as citizens of a country that is facing a potential crisis, we believe it is important to avoid contributing to that risk. We feel strongly that this is the responsible decision to protect the folks in our community who may be most vulnerable to the COVID-19 virus.

We are disappointed we won’t be seeing you all in person, but we still need your virtual presence and support this week!

Please stay tuned this week for a link to the live-stream feed, which will include a message from our keynote speaker Kris Tompkins, acceptance speeches from our 2020 awardees, and a special address from CEO Phil Powers.

The Annual Dinner is our largest fundraiser of the year. As we face increasing threats to our wild places and work to support a growing climbing population and volunteer network, we depend on this now-virtual event to help raise over $350,000 to fund our critical programs. 

We hope you will choose to stand with the AAC community from wherever you are to help ensure we reach our crucial goal. Thank you!

Please reach out to our team with any questions.

Heidi McDowell, Event Director [[email protected]]

Scott Wilton, Event Coordinator [[email protected]]


AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

February, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

About American Alpine Club​The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the ​American Alpine Journal​ and ​Accidents in North American Mountaineering​; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at​ americanalpineclub.org​.

AAC Announces 2020 Cutting Edge Grant Winners

Screen Shot 2020-02-26 at 9.44.59 AM.png

The AAC is pleased to announce the 2020 Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.


February, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce this year’s Cutting Edge Grant recipients. The Cutting Edge Grant continues the Club’s 100-year tradition of supporting athletes in pursuit of world-class climbing and mountaineering objectives.

The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor. For the 2020 grant cycle, the AAC awarded $15,000 to three recipients.

Nick Aiello-Popeo will receive a grant to attempt a new route on the west face of Ganesh in Nepal. Aiello-Popeo and Justin Guarino are planning to make their ascent in lightweight alpine style. Aiello-Popeo added, “Ganesh shares its name with the Hindu holiday Ganesh Chaturthi which celebrates Ganesha, a deity with the head of an elephant. Of Ganesha’s many attributes, he is revered as the ‘remover of obstacles.’ There could be no better theme for an alpine-style expedition!”

Vitaliy Musiyenko will receive a grant to attempt unclimbed routes on both Melanphulan and Nuptse in the Khumbu region of Nepal. Musiyenko will attempt these ascents with Connor Chilcott, winner of the 2020 McNeill-Nott Award, and said, “Success will require top-notch fitness, abilities to climb difficult ice and rock, as well as knowledge on how to quickly and efficiently aid climb. It appears to be a perfect cutting edge challenge.”

And, lastly, Kurt Ross will receive a grant to attempt a new route on a 7,000m peak in the Eastern Karakoram. Ross and partners Jackson Marvell and Matt Cornell have committed to climbing in lightweight alpine style, adhering to Leave No Trace ethics throughout the trip. They are training for success in some of the most dramatic mountains in the world.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely.

The AAC has inspired and supported cutting-edge climbing achievements for over 100 years. Applications for the Cutting Edge Grant are accepted each year from October 1st through November 30th.

For more information, visit a​mericanalpineclub.org/cutting-edge-grant.
For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit globalrescue.com.

Speak up by March 10 to protect The National Environmental Policy Act

Recently, the Trump Administration announced a plan to rewrite the rules for how a bedrock environmental law called the National Environmental Policy Act is implemented. The rule changes would restrict public engagement in federal projects and limit the scope of environmental review for development projects on public lands and waters. More importantly, the rule changes would eliminate what is known as the cumulative impacts analysis, which has historically required the government to consider the effects of their decisions on the climate.

The Council on Environmental Quality (CEQ) held a public hearing in Denver at the EPA Region 8 headquarters where the 100 or so speaking slots filled in under four minutes! AAC Policy Manager Taylor Luneau provided testimony on behalf of the human-powered recreation community, saying:

At its core, NEPA mandates informed decision making, based on sound science and requires that, to the fullest extent possible, all agencies of the federal government take a hard look at environmental consequences prior to issuing a decision. NEPA declares a broad commitment to protecting and promoting environmental quality and the CEQ rules are influential in shaping agency implementation of the statute.

NEPA is an essential pathway for the outdoor recreation community to engage in public land management and these changes will limit our ability to do just that. The CEQ will be accepting public comment on their revisions to NEPA until March 10. Please take a moment to let the CEQ know that we oppose these changes in the brief action alert below.

Policy Manager Taylor Luneau providing his testimony on the proposed changes to the CEQ implementation of NEPA at the EPA Region 8 Headquarters in Denver, CO.

AAC and the Climbing Grief Fund Announce Grief Grants

Screen+Shot+2019-09-09+at+3.30.51+PM.png

The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the ​Climbing Grief Grant​ is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a ​mental health directory​ to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

learn more about the Grief Fund, or apply for a grant.


February 18, 2020, Golden, CO—The Climbing Grief Fund (CGF) and the American Alpine Club (AAC) are pleased to announce that the Climbing Grief Grant is now open to the community. The Climbing Grief Grant offers financial support for individuals directly impacted by grief, loss, and/or trauma related to climbing, ski mountaineering or alpinism.

Those seeking support may apply for this grant at any time throughout the year. There are currently 15 Climbing Grief Grants to be awarded in 2020.

The grants are awarded in amounts of $600 each and are to be used toward individual therapy or a professional program that engages a grief or trauma framework. We’ve created a mental health directory to help anyone in the community find a therapist and/or supportive resources for grief and trauma. Grant applicants may also select a therapist or program that is not listed in the directory.

Applicants may apply online for the Climbing Grief Grant. All applications will remain confidential.

The Climbing Grief Fund acts as a hub to connect individuals to effective mental health professionals and resources. CGF is working to evolve the conversation around grief and trauma in the climbing, alpinism, and ski mountaineering community.

The Climbing Grief Fund was founded in 2018 by professional climber Madaleine Sorkin after a series of tragedies in her community. Sorkin currently directs the CGF.

“Offsetting some of the cost of therapy for individuals impacted by climbing-related tragedy was the original idea that pulled me into starting CGF,” Sorkin said, “so it’s exciting for me to see these grants become a reality. The grants are a concrete service that we can provide for our community and my hope is that our community quickly uses them up and CGF secures funding to offer more in 2020.”

Sorkin is curious how well her community will take to using these grants and whether demand will exceed the 15 budgeted annually. Through increased donations, the Climbing Grief Fund would like to offer more of these unique grants and continue to expand their programming. Currently, CGF programming includes Climbing Grief Grants, Story Archive ProjectMental Health Directory and Resources, and Psychoeducation Workshops. The Story Archive Project contains CGF’s filmed interviews with community members about the impact of grief and loss and how the individual is moving forward.

An original film called The Color of Mourning b rings together these interviews and will premiere on April 23 at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, Colorado.

To learn more about CGF and to donate, please visit https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund.

Thank you for your support of the American Alpine Club, the Climbing Grief Fund, and this important program.

Protecting America's Wilderness Act Passed in the House!

The AAC celebrates the passing through the House of the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act (H.R. 2546) and strongly supports the Act as it moves to the Senate floor. This impressive public lands package combines six bills, collectively protecting 1.3 million acres of land and more than 1200 river miles in the Wild Olympics in Washington, the central coast and Redwoods in California, and Wilderness areas throughout Colorado. It defends outdoor recreation opportunities, safeguards water resources, protects public lands, and supports the multibillion dollar outdoor recreation economy. The land  protections in the act prohibit logging, mining, and drilling, in certain key landscapes and serves as a key climate change mitigation tactic. Thank you Rep. Diana DeGette for being a champion of this legislation, and thanks to all other representatives who supported this act. The climbing community is hopeful that the bill will successfully navigate the Senate in order to place a value on wilderness, and protect these indispensable lands and waterways for generations to come. 

Please join the AAC and the Outdoor Alliance in thanking your representatives for voting to advance this bill. Stay tuned for more information and actions as the Protecting America’s Wilderness Act makes its way to the senate floor. 

Happy Valenclimbs Week!

Print these out and give them to your partner-in-climb for a chance at sparking a belaytionship. xo, your AAC

IMG-4293.jpg
IMG-4295.jpg
IMG_4298.jpg
IMG-4294.jpg
IMG_4296.jpg
IMG_4297.jpg

Our Content Manager Emma doodled these with love, and with some creative input from the comments of last year’s post. Pun credits: 1st to @jendet2, 2nd to @drewpellitieri, 3rd to @loscambones, 4th to @_lord_jord, 5th to @ambeckman0. We <3 all of you.

In case you missed them, last year’s Valenclimbs are below.

Screen Shot 2020-02-10 at 9.46.11 PM.png

Let's Climb! Red Rocks Trip, April 2020

Screen Shot 2020-02-10 at 11.25.14 AM.png

April 19 - 25, 2020
 Red Rock, NV

Too much time in the gym this winter? Craving sunny sandstone? Excited to meet new climbing partners?

Join the AAC’s Education Director, Ron Funderburke, AAC's trips organizer Carol Kotchek, and your fellow Club members in the legendary climbing area Red Rock, Nevada. If you've been looking for the best time to go, the right partners, or the motivation to put together the logistics here’s your opportunity!

We have rented a huge, deluxe, AirBNB, all you need to do is get yourself to Vegas with your personal gear and your psych! Please note the AirBNB is bunk-style so be prepared to share rooms.

Basecamp Includes:

  • Six nights lodging within 25-minute drive to Red Rock ParkBreakfast and lunch to-go options.

  • Daily single pitch climbing with Ron Funderburke, AMGA Certified Rock, Alpine Guide.

  • Opportunity to learn new skills and debate best practices.

  • Discount on local guide services with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides
    In past years this event has sold out. Not all AAC members wanting to attend have been included due to limited space.  This year we will have a short application to fill out. There are no pre-qualifications to attend this event. Our goal with the application process is to create a diverse group of climbers.

To receive an application please contact Carol Kotchek at [email protected] 
We will be letting applicants know by Feb 20 of their acceptance into the event. 

Let's Climb, Red Rock Trip Cost: $600
A $200 non-refundable deposit is required at the time of application acceptance. The remainder is due on or before Feb 29, 2020.

AAC Retains Search Firm to Help Find Next CEO

Photo: Garrett Grove

Photo: Garrett Grove

On behalf of the American Alpine Club's Board of Directors, we want to update you on the search for the organization’s next CEO and the steps being taken to hire the best candidate to lead the Club forward.

We are pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

 Thanks to our search committee made up of board members Deanne Buck, Steve Swenson, Mark Butler, Peter Metcalf, David Landman, Kevin Duncan, Len Necefer, Graham Zimmerman and Jen Bruursema. Their time and dedication to the Club is reflected in the work so far and will undoubtedly secure a tremendous CEO.


January 27, 2020, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is pleased to announce that its CEO search committee selected Koya Leadership Partners a leading executive search and strategic advising firm dedicated to connecting exceptionally talented people with mission-driven clients. Koya has over 15 years of experience recruiting outstanding leaders for organizations in the conservation, advocacy, and outdoor fields. In 2019, Koya Leadership Partners became part of the Diversified Search Group. Both firms have been founded and led by women and have long track records of building diversity and equity internally and through their placements. Koya Managing Director, Kara Teising, will lead the search process and candidate recruitment effort on behalf of the AAC and the board. 

After AAC CEO Phil Powers announced in the fall of 2019 that he would be stepping down in Summer 2020, the AAC Board of Directors created a CEO Search Committee dedicated to finding the Club’s next leader. Search Committee members Jen Bruursema, Deanne Buck, Mark Butler, Kevin Duncan, David Landman, Peter Metcalf, Len Necefer, Steve Swenson, and Graham Zimmerman selected Koya Partners after a competitive process that drew proposals from leading national firms.

“Given the growth and broad reach of all forms of climbing and love for the mountains, we feel it is important for the Search Committee to consider a pool of candidates that reflects the community,” Committee Chair Deanne Buck said. “Koya’s commitment to helping their clients achieve their missions by providing customized, strategic, and innovative services and support for acquiring and retaining exceptional talent, aligns squarely with AAC’s focus in hiring our next CEO.”

The role of the search firm is to engage a multitude of stakeholders to create a Candidate Profile, identify and attract qualified candidates, and work with the Search Committee to interview and select the right hire to lead their client organizations into the future.

To date, the AAC CEO Search Committee, in partnership with Koya, has prioritized early effective methods for broad and inclusive consultation and stakeholder engagement with the climbing community. This input will inform the Candidate Profile that the AAC Board hopes to announce early February, with the completion of the search and announcement of next AAC CEO in summer 2020.

Montana Hill to Crag - Climbing Ice with Public Land Advocates

The American Alpine Club hosted their 5th Hill to Crag, and the FIRST ice climbing event this past weekend! We were incredibly fortunate to partner with the Bozeman Ice Festival and spotlight not only the event itself but the beauty and grandeur of Hyalite Canyon.

Hill to Crag is a unique opportunity to bring together legislators, staffers, outdoor recreation influencers, and veterans to discuss and share information in an exciting way - Climbing! Participants had the opportunity to get on the ice with some of America’s foremost Alpinists, as well as Service members who have a passion for the outdoors.

Among other things, we discussed Veteran issues, the impact of outdoor recreation on the economy, and access to public lands to support a healthy economy and Veteran therapy. We were joined by Rachel Vandervoort, Director of the Montana Office of Outdoor Recreation and spoke at length about the amazing climbing resources in Southwest Montana, and elsewhere in the state.

We were also joined by Zoe Bommarito and Darla Cotton from the National Forest Foundation, who experienced their first time climbing ever! Nearly 34% of climbing in the United States lies on Forest Service lands - that’s more than any other agency public lands. It was great to connect some of the stewards of these lands with climbing for the first time and talk about the importance of National Forests everywhere to the climbing community.

A big thanks to Joe Josephson, Conrad Anker and Graham Zimmerman for showing our crew around the canyon, putting up ropes, and teaching climbing movement. These folks have contributed in so many ways to the climbing community and we were grateful to have them in attendance. Also, thank you to all of the service members who attended. We hope to continue sharing climbing and public lands with active and veteran military communities across the country. A final and important thanks to our sponsors for the event, Black Diamond, Scarpa, Cilogear, and Patagonia!

Photo Credit: Joshua Murdock and Taylor Luneau