2020 ANNUAL BENEFIT DINNER WEEKEND: CLIMBERS UNITING FOR THE PLANET

December 5, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club will host the 2020 Annual Benefit Dinner (ABD) weekend March 13-15, 2020 in Denver, Colorado. Since 1902, the Annual Benefit Dinner has served to convene the climbing community and garner support for the Club’s work around the protection of our wild places.

“Reductions to public lands generally lead to irreversible change. With climbing’s continued growth there is a tremendous amount of work that still needs to be done to protect and preserve our climbing landscapes,” stated AAC CEO Phil Powers. “It’s important to me that my final dinner at the helm sets the Club up to continue this hard work.”

 This year’s ABD will be presented by Patagonia and will feature a keynote by Kris McDivitt Tompkins, Former CEO of Patagonia and current president of Tompkins Conservation. Kris is a longstanding defender of wild places and a true champion for the planet.  

Kris will speak March 14, 2020, at the Denver Center for the Performing Arts (1101 13th St, Denver, CO 80204). She and her late husband Doug Tompkins turned millions of acres across Chile and Argentina into National Parks in an effort to restore and re-wild landscapes. Most recently, Kris completed the largest private land donation in history, with over one million acres going towards creating or expanding ten national parks in Chile. To date, Tompkins Conservation has helped conserve more than 14.2 million acres. 

The Annual Benefit weekend festivities will kick off Friday, March 13, at 6pm with the Send ‘n’ Social at Movement RiNo (3201 Walnut St, Denver, CO 80205). The Send ‘n’ Social includes games, libations, and a celebrity climbing competition. Saturday morning’s special panel discussions and presentations at the Hilton Denver City Center will be informational and inspiring sessions on topics ranging from public land issues to climate change. All weekend festivities surrounding the Dinner are open to the public.  

The main event of the weekend—the Annual Benefit Dinner—begins at 6pm on the 14th. In addition to Kris' keynote address, the AAC will honor climbers with the 2020 Climbing Awards, enjoy dinner, a complimentary bar, and silent and live auctions. Climbing Awardees will be announced January 2020. To learn more or buy tickets for this rare opportunity to hear from Kris McDivitt Tompkins, visit: americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-dinner

About the American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Mountaineering; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages five campgrounds as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $80,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at americanalpineclub.org.

NEW! AAC Memberships for Active Duty Military Members and Veterans

Photo: Caroline Bridges at a Hill-to-Crag event in Golden, Colorado on Cheyenne and Ute land.

The Club has recently launched a discounted membership for active-duty military members and veterans!

You can access veterans or military discount in your members profile when you renew, or on our website when you join!

We know service doesn’t stop when the uniform comes off. Did you know that veterans are among the most active volunteers working to improve our communities? U.S. Army Major Byron Harvison, life-long climber, AAC Salt Lake City Chapter Chair and active-duty military member is one of many examples. Major Harvison has played an instrumental role in our Hill-to-Crag events which unite veterans, active military members, AAC volunteers, state offices of outdoor recreation, and local, state, and national policymakers to connect via a day of rock climbing.

“Coming back from my tours overseas, I felt a continued need to serve. When I saw what the AAC was doing with education, land stewardship, and public policy, I wanted to get involved… The Hill to Crag events I organize include military members and veterans. It’s a way to get the veteran community engaged and give them a seat at the table. It’s a great fit: a lot of veterans I know love taking people outside and helping them stay active and fit.”

— U.S. Army Major Bryon Harvison

What's Happening To The Cryosphere? A Review Of The Recent IPCC Report.

Photo courtesy of Wilmer Sanchez Rodrigues, 2019 AAC research grant awardee. Photo taken while conducting research in Peru with the American Climber Science Program.

By Marca Hagenstad

Last fall in Innsbruck, Austria I presented the results of research I conducted with Protect Our Winters (POW) on the economics of snow sports at the International Snow Science Workshop. There, I met a French snow scientist who asked me to join his team as a contributing author on a chapter on High Mountain Areas in IPCC’s next research effort. The IPCC Special Report on Oceans and the Cryosphere came out this September, and I wanted to highlight some of its main findings. While I am a social scientist, specializing in circular economies, I’ve attempted to summarize the climate science as well, to help ensure the information is absorbed by a larger audience.

“Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works.”

Our engagement with new climate change information depends on how it coheres with our existing perception of how the world works. I want to acknowledge this and distill the report down into digestible chunks that various communities can relate to. For the AAC, distributing information on the alpine environment makes sense. We are all aware of the changes we have seen in the mountains–from rain in winter to shrinking glaciers. The report investigates how these collective changes are impacting our global environment. 

Impacts on the farthest corners of the Earth

 This is the first IPCC report to examine climate change impacts to the farthest corners of the Earth, from the highest alpine regions to the deepest oceans. The frozen part of the Earth is called the cryosphere, and includes ice, snow, glaciers, and permafrost. It is widespread in polar regions and high mountains. Frozen regions are thawing and impacts are far-reaching. Land and sea ice are melting at accelerating rates. There is rapid surface melt of glaciers and decline in snow cover, especially at lower elevations. Permafrost is melting, with temperatures increasing to record high levels.

 Shrinking glaciers and snow cover have many impacts to recreation. They pose challenges to winter recreationists and to ski resorts, forcing some resorts out of business and increasing financial risks, especially for lower-elevation resorts. Many resorts are responding by increasing snow-making capabilities, which may be effective for a while, but may not be feasible in the long term as temperatures exceed minimum temperatures needed for snowmaking. By 2050, only 10 to 13 out of 21 prior Olympic Winter Games locations are projected to have adequate snow reliability, depending on the emissions scenario. Cryosphere decline has also reduced opportunities for ice climbing.

In summer, cryosphere changes are impacting glacier-related activities such as hiking, skiing, climbing, and mountaineering. Hiker and climber safety is being compromised along established trails and common access routes. In response, several routes have been relocated and some ladders and fixed anchors have been installed. New opportunities are presented in some locations where visitors are attracted by ‘last chance’ opportunities to view a glacier or to view the loss of a glacier. Trekking in the Himalaya has been negatively affected and the reduced water availability affects the ability of hotels and campsites to serve visitors. 

 Permafrost holds double the amount of carbon currently in the atmosphere. As it thaws, enormous quantities of carbon and methane are released – we’re talking 10s to 100s of billions of tonnes of CO2 - which further contribute to global warming. Contaminants are also released, affecting water quality. Permafrost thaw is also affecting recreationists: rock falls on and off glaciers are increasingly observed, threatening the safety of hikers and mountaineers, especially in Switzerland and New Zealand. Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season. 

“Permafrost thaw, along with glacier retreat, have induced major changes to iconic mountaineering routes in the Mont-Blanc area including reduced route safety and shift in the climbing season.”

The report concludes that the speed and intensity of the future impacts from ocean and cryosphere change depend critically on the quantities of greenhouse gas emissions we choose to continue to release. So, it is a positive that we actually have control over how severe the impacts of climate change will get. We will continue to experience significant changes, but impacts will be much less severe if emissions are significantly reduced. Reducing other pressures such as pollution and overfishing, and increasing habitat and wetland restoration can also ease impacts. Improving education and using scientific knowledge alongside local and Indigenous knowledge can support the development of solutions that help communities adapt to changes and respond to challenges ahead.

Marca Hagenstad is an economist with Circle Economics and a contributing author to the most recent Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report on the cryosphere. She also tests splitboards for Backcountry Magazine and teaches snow science with Winter Wildlands Alliance.

American Alpine Club Researchers

AAC Researchers are scholars and scientists who have conducted environmental research in part through AAC funding. These are their stories.

Past Award Recipients

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Scott Braddock

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Climate impacts on the glaciers and wildlife of the Southern Patagonian Icefield, Chile

The primary goals of this project are to identify the dominant mechanism of tide-water glacier acceleration in the SPI, specifically Témpano and Bernardo Fjords (Figure 1), and to establish a working relationship with both local Chilean government (CONAF) and international (Round River Conservation Studies) organizations to continue this research theme into the future. This partnership will provide resources and logistical support as well as the opportunity to share equipment and data in the greater effort of understanding and conserving the SPI. In addition, we will have the opportunity to not only publish our findings in journals but also to share these findings with local communities and students (ages 8-21) through field trips, classroom visits and citizen-science efforts around the SPI. It is our hope that this interdisciplinary approach will help to inform and involve these communities to continue conservation and protection of national parks in Chile and build upon our research efforts in a collaborative nature.

Read Braddock’s full report here.

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Anais Zimmer

2019 Research Grant Recipient

Future of Periglacial Landscapes: Alpine Ecosystems and Deglaciation in the Tropical Andes and French Alps

First, this research permits to understand the future of proglacial landscapes at a local scale to enhance decision-making and land use management, generating scientific reports for municipalities, regional or national governments. Second, this proposal aims to develop applied solutions to respond to actual and future problems in mountain regions. Our grazing experiment in Peru tests a local solution that can be implemented at a larger scale and in other mountain systems to respond to regional problems. Third, our results from both continents will advance complementary studies worldwide in such regions as the Central and Southern Andes, the Arctic and Scandinavian Mountains, the Himalayan region, and Africa.

In addition, this research provides the groundwork to create awareness and promote international policies for the conservation of deglaciated landscapes. We aim to influence the broader community of international organizations that work on conservation (such as the IUCN, UNESCO, Mountain Research Initiative, ICIMOD, The Nature Conservancy, among others) in a call for the protection and restoration of proglacial landscapes. Up until now, there is no specific effort on this.

(Photo by: Carlos Ly)

Read Anais’ Full Report Here

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Martí March Salas

2018 Research Grant Recipient

The effect of rock climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation: Implementation of an innovative and comprehensive methodology in a wide geographical range

This project proposed to evaluate the effects of rock climbing on plant biodiversity in different locations with Mediterranean environmental conditions, one of the most widely distributed biomes around the world, including California, central Chile, Western Cape (South Africa), south of Australia, and the Mediterranean Basin. We conducted field-samplings in different regions along Spain, south of France, and California. This project provides a starting point for the study of the long-term effects of rock climbing on plant communities, and it was a first step for evaluate, for the first time, the effects of rock climbing in a wide geographic range.

Read Salas’ full report here.

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Marie Faust

2018 Research Grant Recipient

Reproductive consequences of climate change-driven alterations in co-flowering between two subalpine plant species

In the summer of 2018, Faust conducted a short-term field experiment to investigate the effects of climate-driven shifts in co-flowering between Linum lewisii and Potentilla pulcherrima. She hoped to answer these questions: Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering between Linum and Potentilla affect fruit and seed set in Linum? Do climate-driven changes in co-flowering affect interspecific competition for pollinator services between Linum and Potentilla? Read her report and find her answers here.

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Alison Criscitiello

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Histories of Arctic climate and environmental contaminants from a shallow ice core, Mt. Oxford, Ellesmere Island

This project involved the drilling of a new ice core on the plateau of Mt. Oxford, a peak on northern Ellesmere Island, to investigate Arctic Ocean sea-ice variability as well as climate and pollutant histories in this region of the Arctic. The records from this new ice core will be compared to records from other ice cores to offer new insights into the spatial variations in accumulation, moisture source, contamination, and marine aerosol deposition across the eastern Canadian high Arctic. Read more here.

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Anya Tyson

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The Clark's Nutcracker Project: Engaging young adventurers in citizen science.

The whitebark pine is a high-elevation tree entirely dependent upon the Clark's nutcracker to disperse its seeds, and this tree species has suffered greatly from an invasive fungus and a native bark beetle. This research utilized the observation powers of young adventurers to collect data on whitebark pine and Clark's nutcrackers during wilderness expeditions across four remote mountain ranges in Wyoming and Montana. Read more here.

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Emily Schultz

2017 Research Grant Recipient

The importance of within-patch heterogeneity for population dynamics of a high elevation pine.

With mountainous regions across the globe being strongly affected by climate change, it is important to develop reliable models for characterizing how mountain species are affected by environmental variation. This research used new and existing data for whitebark pine in the Elkhorn Mountains of Oregon to test whether within-population variation, such as elevation gradients, can change predictions for the persistence of this species. Read more here.

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Kate McHugh

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Wilderness Rock Climbing Indicators and Climbing Management Implications in the National Park Service

What makes climbing in wilderness unique? How can climbing management practices honor local values and uphold wilderness ideals? McHugh’s study addresses the need to characterize the wilderness climbing resource in National Parks so that it may be appropriately monitored and managed. Deliverables of the research include, first; a critical review of literature, law, policy, and agency practices, and second; the development of tools to describe and define the wilderness climbing resource and a monitoring protocol to document change over time. Research is in-progress; a final report will be posted upon completion.

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Nathalie Chardon

2016 and 2017 Research Grant Recipient

Quantifying the Effects of Anthropogenic Disturbance on Alpine Flora on Colorado's 14'ers

Hiking on Colorado's tallest peaks is rapidly increasing in popularity, yet the effects of this increase are poorly understood. This study integrates a two year field study with ecological modeling techniques to elucidate how these fragile alpine ecosystems are responding to this pressure. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Nathalie on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Rachael Mallon

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Biogeography of Snow Algae Communities in the Pacific Northwest

The pink or "watermelon" snow seen occasionally in alpine environments is indicative of the presence of snow algae, one of the many species inhabiting biodiverse alpine ecosystems. The algae's pigmentation increases snow melting, making research into the snow algae populations critical to climate change models. This researcher collected samples from Oregon and Washington for molecular analysis to better understand variability across snow algae communities in the Pacific Northwest. Read more here.

The National Renewable Energy Lab wrote a piece about Rachel’s work. Read it here.

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Rebecca Finger

2017 Research Grant Recipient

Limitations to shrub expansion in a warmer Arctic

The warming Arctic is experiencing increases in plant growing season length, but some regions have seen a decline in tundra plant growth while others have experienced increased tundra plant growth. This research examined potential landscape changes over the last fifty years in West Greenland and studied abiotic and biotic controls on modern-day shrub growth and distribution. Read more here.

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Alice Hill

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Dissecting River Flow: Quantifying How Melting Glaciers and Snow Impact Central Asian Water Stress

This research took place over a 500 km stretch of the Naryn River draining the western flanks for the Tien Shan Mountains in Kyrgyzstan. The work aims to quantify the relative source water contribution from snow, ice, groundwater, and rain to lowland river flow in an arid Central Asian catchment to better understand potential future flow vulnerabilities across this volatile region. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Alice on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Jonathan Burton

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing Risk of Glacial Outburst Flooding from the Imja Lake, Nepal

Located southeast of Mt. Everest, The Imja Lake is dammed by the terminal moraine of the Imja Glacier. As melt water from the glacier causes the Imja Lake to grow, the risk of catastrophic flooding to the down-stream communities grows. This study measured glacial dimensions, glacial retreat and lake depth over several years to model future glacial dynamics and the risk of outburst flooding. Read more here.

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Katie Epstein & Jessica DiCarlo

2016 Research Grant Recipients

Surveying Adaptation and Recovery in Mountain Farming Communities in Nepal After the 2015 Earthquakes

Nepal is still recuperating from the series of earthquakes that occurred early in 2015. In this study, households in farming communities in the mountainous district of Dolakha are interviewed and surveyed. Results indicate that subsistence agricultural systems were heavily impacted in the earthquakes and that household perceptions of recovery are highly differentiated, despite largely uniform and widespread damages across study sites. Read more here.

Read Epstein and DiCarlo's article in Ecology and Society here. They have also published this research in Case Studies in the Environment and Ambio: A Journal of the Human Environment.

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Nathan Fry

2016 Research Grant Recipient

Evaluating Efficacy of Outdoor Education in Implementing Social-Ecological System Behavior in the Kyrgyz Republic

The purpose of this project is to create an ecological leadership curriculum that effectively combines “best practices” in adventure leadership and environmental education and apply the curriculum to the American University of Central Asia’s pilot Ecological Leadership Program. Read more here.

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Grant Lipman

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Analyzing the Efficacy of a New Potential Acute Mountain Sickness Medication

Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a condition often triggered by rapidly ascending to a higher elevation, without proper acclimatization. The purpose of this trial is to investigate the usefulness of the drug budesonide as a prevention/treatment medication for AMS. Results are compared to the standard AMS treatment: acetazolamide. Read more here.

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Kristin Schild

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Constraining a Prominent Driver in Glacier Terminus Stability from the Tidewater Glacier Kronebreen to Kongsfjorden, Svalbard

The Kronebreen glacier in Svlabard, Norway, was the prime location for this research. The work aims to study water samples collected at the glacier to quantify the magnitude and variation of glacier-driven fjord circulation in order to make more accurate predictions about the influence of a warming climate on ice discharge and on physical and biological dynamics within the fjord. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Kristin on climate change, her research and climbing. Read the interview here.

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Robin Thomas

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Relative Dating of Glacier Moraines in the Cordillera Blanca

Black carbon is believed to be contributing to climate change by absorbing sunlight and released as heat when deposited on the Earth’s surface. The black carbon snow sampling project involved climbing up onto glaciers in Peru to collect snow samples and measuring the reflectivity of the snow. This is just one of the several studies conducted with the help of this award. Read more here.

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Tim Graham

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Assessing the Impacts of Introduced Mountain Goats on La Sal Mountain Alpine Arthropod Communities

Non-native animal species can threaten sensitive ecosystems. Recently, 35 non-native mountain goats were brought to the La Sal Mountains along the Utah/Colorado border. This research investigates the consequences of that introduction by surveying arthropod communities before and after the mountain goats were brought to the area. Read more here.

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Trevor Bloom

2015 Research Grant Recipient

Investigating the Impact of Climate Change and Wildfire on High Elevation Wildflower Saxifraga Austromontana in the Rocky Mountains

High elevation ecosystems are experiencing the impact of climate change with many species moving up North in search of cooler climates. This study focuses specifically on the Saxifraga austromontana (spotted saxifrage) and seeks answers on how the species will fare under the impact of climate change and increased fire frequency. Read more here.

The AAC recently interviewed Trevor on climate change, his research and climbing. Read the interview here.

AAC CEO Highlighted in New Film

Photo: Chipsa House

Our CEO Phil Powers summited K2 without oxygen and has a first ascent on Denali, but it was a simple climb on his lunch break that left him with the biggest challenge of his life following a miscommunication and a 70-foot fall. Watch the film below.

“There is no single moment that defines your life. To be grateful, to live in the moment, to love everybody you can, try to give back... [an accident like Phil’s] definitely wakes you up.”

— Sarah Pierce

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Facilitating Outdoor Access: The SOAR Act

During Climb the Hill this year Matt Wade, AMGA’s Advocacy and Policy Director, testified in support of the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation, commonly known as the SOAR Act (S. 1665, HR 3879). Outside Magazine has a great piece that goes into the specifics of this bill. In short, the SOAR Act will benefit the outdoor recreation community by improving and expediting the permitting process for guides and outfitters who utilize public lands for programming. This will ultimately aid in enhancing and diversifying access in the outdoors. We chatted with Matt after his testimony and he shared some beta on what it is like to speak up for outdoor recreation in front of the House Natural Resources subcommittee, and how constituents can help the fight at home.

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Photo: Irene Yee (@ladylockoff)

Interview with matt wade

Q: Why did you want to testify on behalf of the SOAR Act? What drives you to advocate for this bill? 
A: Many people learn to climb with an instructor or guide and problems in the outfitter-guide permitting system are preventing people from having that opportunity. Youth camps are waiting years for a permit request to be approved, guides have to travel abroad to climb with their clients because they can’t get permits at home, and organizations that do have permits have to deal with an enormous amount of unnecessary red tape. There is very real, urgent need for change.

Q: What will the passing of this legislation mean for the climbing/greater outdoor recreation community?
A: If the SOAR Act is passed into law it will significantly improve opportunities for people from all walks of life to take a climbing class, attend a mountaineering camp, or hire a guide to improve their skills. It will also reduce overhead and administration for the agencies, which is much needed as more and more agency staff time is getting diverted to fire suppression. Passage of the bill will be a win-win across the outdoor recreation space. 

Q: How did it feel testifying to the committee?
A: It was great. I really enjoyed talking with the other witnesses and it was an honor to be of service to the Committee staff and members of Congress as they are contemplating this important legislation. I also felt a tangible sense of community support and encouragement from the many Climb the Hill attendees in the audience! Thank you to all of you who came to the hearing to show your support!

Q: Where are we in the process of passing this legislation?
A: With this hearing we achieved a milestone in the legislative process and we can be proud of that, but there is still more work to do. Next, we need to advocate for a similar hearing in the Senate. Then the bill will go through “markup” which is the process of making amendments or changes. Finally, the bill will need to be voted on in both chambers. The process is more a marathon than a sprint but we have left the starting line at a good pace. Let’s keep the momentum going.  

Photo: AAC Member Ron Funderburke

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Helping from home

When asked how folks back home can help push the SOAR Act forward, Matt shared some insights that can be used not only for the SOAR Act in isolation, but all legislation that will continue to protect climbing areas and access in perpetuity:

A: Contact your members of Congress and let them know these issues are important to you. If you have a personal story about a difficulty accessing public lands, share it with them. Personal stories from constituents are the single most compelling piece of evidence for legislation. After telling your story, ask them to cosponsor the SOAR Act.

The SOAR Act is widely supported across the aisle and is currently co-sponsored by fourteen members of the House and thirteen members of the Senate. Be sure to write your representatives to make sure they are supporting the SOAR Act.

AAC's Guidebook to Membership is Here

Cover photo by Drew Smith.

Our 2019 Guidebook to Membership is here! The Guidebook serves as a storyboard and yearbook as well as a literal guidebook to Club member benefits. The majority of each issue is dedicated to member photos and stories, working to define (and redefine) the ever-changing faces of American climbing and the Club that serves to unite them. From mountain art to community issues to conservation and advocacy stories, the Guidebook covers many important topics from a unique member-perspective. So, flip on through and get inspired. You might even find a new discount that you didn't even know you had.

Some stories we’re particularly excited about this year include:

• Art for the In-Betweens: Artist Spotlight, by Brooklyn Bell

• Navajo Rising: An Indigenous Emergence Story, by Aaron Mike

• Glacial Views: A Climate Scientist Reflects, by Seth Campbell

• 1Climb, Infinite Potential: Kevin Jorgeson Breaks Down Walls by Building them

• On Pushing: A Grief Story, by Madaleine Sorkin

• An Ode to Mobility: the Range of Motion Project Tackles Cotopaxi, by Lauren Panasewicz

…and there’s so much more, including tear-out-and-send policy postcards by Jill Pelto.

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$10,000 Awarded in Grants to Replace Aging Bolts

Photo: Craig Hoffman

The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant award recipients. This grant program addresses the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

• Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

• Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

• Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

• Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

• Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

• New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

• Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

• Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

• Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

• Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

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October 14, 2019, Golden, CO—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2019 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its fifth year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for ten worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

Wasatch and Uinta Mountains, UT - Salt Lake Climbers Alliance

Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at crags across the region, including Maple Canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, and the Uinta Mountains. Old hardware will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SLCA’s Wasatch Anchor Replacement Initiative is one of the leading local climbing organization-led fixed anchor replacement programs in the country.

Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2020 and is striving to keep bad bolt reports in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.

Rumney, NH - Rumney Climbers Association

Rumney Climbers Association was awarded funding to replace aging expansion bolts at several crags located at the popular Rumney climbing area. RCA’s efforts are widespread and ongoing, but emphasis in the coming year will be placed on updating hardware at Orange Crush, New Wave, and Bonsai with 1/2” stainless steel glue-in bolts. 

Sauratown Mountain and Cooks Wall, NC - Caroline Climbers Coalition

Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Cooks Wall in Hanging Mountain State Park and Sauratown Mountain. CCC’s efforts will focus on replacing old 3/8” non-stainless wedge, sleeve, and drop-in anchors with new 1/2” stainless steel hardware.

Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in the next five years. ETCC has replaced 1,000 aging bolts in the past 17 months with new 1/2“ stainless anchors. This grant will help facilitate their ongoing effort to replace 4,000 aging bolts in the region.

New River Gorge, WV - New River Alliance of Climbers

New River Alliance of Climbers (NRAC) was awarded funding to rebolt the popular Tattoo and Beer Walls. These areas provide the highest concentration of beginner sport routes in the New River Gorge.

Boulder Canyon and Shelf Road, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding to rebolt Black Widow Slab in Boulder Canyon and the Darkside at Shelf Road. The BCC will purchase 200 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts, 160 Wave Bolts, and 40 lower-off anchor set-ups to address aging hardware at these two popular crags.

Wet Mountains, CO - Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group

Southern Colorado Climber’s Resource and Action Group (SoCo CRAG) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at crags in the Newlin Creek area of the Wet Mountains in southern Colorado. Efforts will focus on installing new 1/2“ stainless hardware and modern hangers on routes currently equipped with homemade hangers and aging bolts.

Tahoe Basin, CA - Tahoe Climbers Coalition

Tahoe Climbers Coalition (TCC) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware around the Tahoe Basin. As a newly formed local climbing organization, TCC’s efforts will bolster ongoing replacement efforts in the region, helping to ensure climbing in the Tahoe Basin remains accessible and bad bolts are replaced in a timely manner.

Queen Creek Canyon, AZ - Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program

Central Arizona Bolt Replacement Program (CABRP) was awarded funding to address aging hardware at The Pond in Queen Creek Canyon. CABRP will replace 720 aging, rusty bolts with new stainless steel glue-in bolts. CABRP will also replace top anchor hardware on all routes with new quick links and top anchor hooks, addressing concerns around rusty, loose, and inferior hardware at the crag.

Receding Glaciers on Mont Blanc Results in Closures for Italian Side

Have you ever dreamed of climbing mixed routes on the Mont Blanc massif? Come back another time, it is closed, or at least a few roads to access much of the Northwestern side of the iconic massif are. Why is this infamous alpine area closing its doors on the Italian side? It’s due to the rapid movement, and a threatening collapse of the Planpincieux glacier. Italy’s Minister of the Environment Sergio Costa claims climate change is to blame, and states that the emergency indicates “the necessity and urgency of strong and coordinated action for the climate, to prevent extreme events that risk dramatic consequences.” 

The Planpincieux glacier resides on the Mont Blanc Massif and spreads across the borders of Italy, France, and Switzerland. This glacier is actively monitored by the Safe Mountain Foundation, and officials claim that “unusually high temperatures during August and September accelerated the ice melt.” According to Time, the glacier “which spreads 512 square miles acorss the mountain, has been moving up to 20 inches a day,” and is “at risk of collapse” threatening the residents of Courmayeur, an alpine town that rests in the valley below the glacier. 

Paralleling this development in the Alps is the release of the most recent United Nations IPCC report on Wednesday, September 24th. The report entitled, “Special Report on the Ocean and Cryosphere in a Changing Climate” (SROCC) predicts a rapid increase of glacial melting, similar to what is happening on Planpincieux. The SROCC warns that “human communities in close connection with polar areas and high mountains are particularly exposed” to melting glaciers. Th report also projects glacial mass and snow cover loss in non-polar regions like central Europe due to the impacts of climate change, stating that “by 2100, 80% of their current glacier mass may disappear.” Perhaps the most jarring statistic of all is the re-affirmation of findings from the IPCC’s Fifth Assessment Report  which predicted with high confidence that due to a “pronounced imbalance” between current glacier mass and climate, glaciers will continue to melt even with no further climate change.

The findings of these reports and many others are alarming. These high mountain regions do not serve only as climbing and mountaineering areas for us to enjoy, but as homes and communities for people living in the high alpine - approximately one-tenth of the world’s population. Seeing the real impact that climate change is having on pristine mountain environments combined with the scientific data provided by the SROCC should serve as a wakeup call for action from global leaders.

Climbers for Climate: Following up on the Climate Strike

While the American Alpine Club visited Washington DC for this year’s Climb the Hill event, many participants were able to end their time at our Nation’s Capital participating in the Global Climate Strike. The streets were filled with local youth, teachers, parents and grandparents, industry leaders like Patagonia, and advocacy groups ranging from Citizens Climate Lobby, to Young Evangelicals for Climate Action. The march made it clear that people from every generation, walk of life, and industry are coming together to fight for the future of a healthy planet.

Likely the “largest mass protest for action on global warming in history,” Vox reports that activists estimate there were four million people striking across the globe. Here are some highlights of the week of Global Climate Strike (Sept. 20-27) from 350 a non-profit identifying as an “international movement of ordinary people working to end the age of fossil fuels and build a world of community-led renewable energy for all”: 

• 1.5 million protestors in Italy

• 1.4 million protestors in Germany

• Over 500,000 protestors in the United States

• 20,000 protestors in Brazil

• 13,000 protestors in Mexico

• 13,000 protestors in India

• 10,000 protestors in Pakistan

• Over 7.6 million protestors worldwide

• More than 6,100 events were held in 185 countries with the support of 73 Trade Unions, 820 civil society organizations, 3,000 companies and 8,500 websites  

While striking to bring awareness to issues can be a powerful means of collective activism, it is important to remember that having the ability to take time off of work to attend events of this nature is a privilege, and not everyone is able to participate. Because of this, it’s important to follow up with legislators to voice the why behind the protest, to speak out for those who may not have been in attendance, and to request direct action. 

Whether you marched alongside your fellow community members, followed along online for work, or were unable to participate this year, here are a few steps you can take to make sure our legislators hear us. 

1. Contact your Representatives: Utilize this helpful tool located near the bottom of the AAC Climbers for Climate page. Enter your address and immediately find who your representatives are. Give their office a call, or shoot them an email and explain to them why you as a constituent care about taking responsible action on climate change. 

2. Support Local Organizations in your area. Patagonia Action Works created a network of nonprofits and advocacy organizations that are working on grassroots projects in your area. You can easily tap into the network by entering your address and the issues you are interested in getting involved with.

3. Stay educated on the issues. Keep following along here by reading updates from the AAC Policy Team, and expand your network into other areas of climate science and action. Check out our partners over at Protect our Winters or the Outdoor Alliance to find more information about Climate Change news, tools, and science. Have you seen Protect our Winters Canada’s latest tool: Fact Avalanche? If not, check that out here.

4. VOTE. Are you registered yet? One of the most impactful ways to make change is voting for representatives who share the same values as you do and who believe that climate change is real.

LAND AND WATER CONSERVATION FUND RECEIVES $30 MILLION MORE THAN THE PREVIOUS FISCAL YEAR

Do you remember that Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) thing that has been a hot topic among conservation organizations this year? Well, back in March Congress agreed to make it a permanent program which will receive funding through the appropriations process, however, Congress could never agree on how much money it should receive. When the LWCF was first enacted, it was set up to collect $900 million annually. Unfortunately, in the 50+ years the program has been around, this has only happened twice.

Most recently, on September 24th the LWCF was granted funding through a suite of bills approved by the Senate subcommittee for the Interior, Environment and Related Agencies. LWCF received a whopping $465 million which is the highest it has been funded in 15 years. While this is only half of the $900 million allotted to the LWCF, it is still $30 million more than it was funded in fiscal year 2019.

Senator Udall of New Mexico was a champion for getting this bill approved. He stated to the committee that he will “keep fighting for the resources we need to protect New Mexico and the nation’s natural resources and fulfill our trust and treaty responsibilities to Native communities.” A big thanks is owed to Senator Udall and all of the members of the committee, like Senator Murkowski, who were willing to work across the aisle to fund LWCF and, as Udall mentions in his statement, keep the bill “free of new poison pill, anti-environment provisions – providing Americans with better access to outdoor recreation while protecting our air and water.”

Due to lack of permanent funding, Congress will have to determine the LWCF’s budget on an annual basis which could mean wide variations of funding from year to year. During Climb the Hill this year, we advocated for H.R. 3195 and S.B. 1081, legislation that would ensure adequate funding for LWCF in perpetuity because we believe that LWCF is a necessary tool to continue to protect the special places where we camp, climb, and recreate across the country. If you would like to learn more about LWCF check out this blog we wrote detailing what it is, how it works, and where we see it in action.

Now that LWCF has been funded for 2020, it is important to thank our representatives, and remind them that while this increase in funding is a step in the right direction, the LWCF should be receiving $900 million annually, in perpetuity. Use our easy letter writing tool below to shoot your representatives a note on why you believe LWCF should be fully funded.

Phil Powers to Step Down from Position as AAC CEO

Powers climbs in Red Rocks. Photo: Irene Yee.

A LETTER FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

Dear AAC members, climbers and friends;

This month, I informed our Board of Directors that I will be moving on from my role as the American Alpine Club’s CEO. These years have been some of the most rewarding of my life, and coming to this conclusion was not easy. After fourteen years at the helm of this wonderful organization, this feels like the right time. The Club is in a strong position, ready for a smooth transition, and poised to fuel the next phase of American climbing. My transition will take place over the course of the next year. I have spent a lot of time thinking about the next steps—not only what I’ll do next, but what’s best for the AAC.

Climbing continues to be the driving force in my life. Sharing this lifestyle—the contact with the natural world it provides, the attention to health it demands, and the partnerships it cultivates—with others has been my central effort during my time at the AAC.

Powers at an AAC Climbers' Gathering prior to an Annual Dinner.

Powers advocating for public lands with staff and volunteers at Outdoor Retailer.

The Club has made huge strides in the last decade and a half, and I’m incredibly proud of our accomplishments. Together, we grew our portfolio of lodging facilities from one to five, reached a membership of 25,000, and vastly increased our reach in areas like public policy and education. These milestones were only possible because of thousands of people’s work. I have had the privilege to lead an organization of members, donors, volunteers and staff who share time, resources, goals, and ropes together. Today’s AAC is anchored by a united community of climbers who yearn to offer their knowledge and stand by their values—values like supporting public lands, access to wild and vertical places, and sharing our care for one another through mentorship, education and rescue benefits.

I will leave this role feeling more anticipation than satisfaction. In many respects, we have only begun to see the ways in which climbing benefits individual lives and, more broadly, is a force for good. I think of these years as foundational to an even greater future, and I look forward to watching that unfold—and contributing where I can.

Powers with climber Mason Earle at AAC's Annual Dinner (photo: Jim Aikman).

Powers on the dance floor at AAC's Excellence in Climbing event (photo: Alton Richardson).

My experience here has been a special one. I’ve been able to spend time, often at the crag or in the mountains, with some of the early greats in American climbing. I’ve been able to get to know (and even climb with on their “rest days”) contemporary climbers who continue to advance our craft. Many of them have gone on to become extraordinary ambassadors for the landscapes and ecosystems we depend on.

The AAC board has begun its search for my replacement, but this is not my goodbye. I am committed to supporting that effort in every way that makes sense over the coming year. As I move on from the AAC, I look forward to spending more time with my family and with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, which I have owned with my partners for the last twenty years. I will also be spending more time with the wild places we have worked so hard to protect.

And, of course, I’ll still be climbing, so look for me at your crag. There are many I still want to visit.

With gratitude,

Phil Powers

Powers and the many attendees of the 2019 Climb the Hill event in D.C. (photo: Stephen Gosling).

Powers on the Muldrow Glacier in 1996.

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We've Completed Our Most Challenging Ascent Yet: Climb the Hill

Climbers and Climb the Hill attendees listen during the standing-room-only senate reception we hosted. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

The 4th annual Climb the Hill with Access Fund is all wrapped up, and it was our most impactful effort to date!

Climb the Hill represents the interests of the climbing community among national policy-makers. Professional climbers, outdoor industry representatives, and recreation advocates accompany us on Capitol Hill, where we meet with federal lawmakers to discuss issues affecting the climbing and greater outdoor recreation community.

This year, we:

• Brought 60+ athletes, outdoor brands, non-profit partners, and community advocates together on Capitol Hill in D.C.,

• attended a hearing on streamlining permitting for outfitters and guides via the Simplifying Outdoor Access for Recreation (SOAR) Act and the Recreation Not Red Tape (RNR) Act,

• and offered a Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) training for team members, crafted by the Climb the Hill JEDI Taskforce.

And:

We advocated for climate forward solutions.

We spoke up for public lands protections.

We rallied for recreation access and enhancement.

We demanded appropriate funding for land management agencies.

We outlined Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) principles in our lobby efforts with the support of our JEDI Taskforce..

A staffer, Alex Honnold, and Justin Napolitano approach a meeting. Photo © Stephen Gosling.

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2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grant Winners Announced

The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2019 Cornerstone Conservation Grants, powered by REI. Our Cornerstone Grants support our vision of healthy climbing landscapes with annual awards to organizations, landowners, and individuals to fund projects such as human waste solutions, climbing trail restoration, and related infrastructure projects. This year, the committee reviewed a large number of well-qualified applications. They were heartened by the breadth of conservation projects planned across the country, and we continue to encourage local climbers to give back in a meaningful way, on a local level.

A big thanks to our corporate partners and to our Cornerstone Conservation Grant Committee members (listed below). Congratulations to our 2019 Cornerstone recipients:

Rumney Climbers Association
Rumney Rocks, Rumney, New Hampshire

By stepping up to address the environmental stewardship needs identified by the US Forest Service, the Rumney Climbers Association is helping to ensure that the climbing resources at Rumney remain open and accessible to current and future visitors. If conditions were to continue to degrade and the USFS was unable to adequately address these issues, there is a very real possibility that some sites could be closed or access severely restricted to mitigate climber impacts. The proposed work will ensure that the natural environment remains intact, allowing future visitors to experience Rumney as the beautiful outdoor climbing destination that it is renowned for. 

Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)

Upper Methow Valley, Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, Washington

Methow Valley Climbers will use the funds to improve the infrastructure at the local, very popular, Fun Rock climbing area. Recreational rock climbing use of the cliffs and trails at Fun Rock began in the 1980's and has increased exponentially over the years. The area sees high use from March through the fall and has seen degradation of the user built platforms and trails, leading to reduced safety and poor flow of traffic. Local climbers have, over the years, built and maintained the landing areas, using whatever material was easily obtained, but have not been able to keep up with the huge numbers the area now sees. The greatest concerns are safety for the users and environmental damage to the fragile, unconsolidated soil and struggling plants.

Red River Gorge Climbers’ Coalition

Bald Rock Recreational Preserve, Red River Gorge, Kentucky

The RRGCC has new crag development underway at a location five minutes from one of our parking lots. We predict this to be a high traffic area, as it is full of moderates and development continues. We aim to build sustainable staging areas and trails more quickly to prevent unnecessary damage to the ecology of the area. The Cornerstone Grant will greatly help the RRGCC achieve sustainable development and mitigate heavy impact in what is sure to be a popular area.

New River Alliance of Climbers

New River Gorge and Fayette County, West Virginia

The proposed project will remediate the extensive damage at the Bridge Buttress area caused by many years of heavy use by climbers. The plan is to crib staging areas with timber and rock to create a series of connected flats that will slow runoff and put a stop to the continuous erosion and loss of vegetation. Grade improvements will connect the approach staircase to the stone staircase leading to the top of the crag and to the Layback area, climber's right of the main buttress. This project will also create initial recreational infrastructure in the newly purchased and established Needleseye Park, a municipal climbing resource in the City of Oak Hill, WV.

Northwest Montana Climbers’ Coalition

Stone Hill, Kootenai National Forest, Montana

Stone Hill is home to more than 500 climbing routes, many of which were developed without adequate trail establishment. The Stone Hill Trail Network Project will bring together land managers, climbers and volunteers to establish well-built trails and signage, significantly improving access to these beloved routes and making them easier to approach. Trail planning will be directed by the USDA Forest Service, and trail building will be done by groups of volunteers over a series of organized trail days in the next two seasons. Trail days will be an opportunity for the community to network and learn about sustainability and climbing area stewardship. The quality trails the community builds will improve sustainability by mitigating trampling and erosion on the steep slopes around the area, and encourage climbers to spread out and explore the classic, lesser known crags of Stone Hill.

Department of Conservation and Natural Resources

Forbes State Forest, Pennsylvania

Forbes State Forest boasts numerous recreational opportunities for visitors, among these climbing is a popular activity. Both Beam Rocks and Cove Rocks are heavily trafficked areas for climbers, hikers, and other recreational pursuits throughout the state forest. Due to the popularity of these areas, they are an unfortunate target for vandalism, including graffiti. For the past four years, Forbes State Forest has partnered with volunteers (Southwestern PA Climbers Coalition, Pennsylvania Parks and Forests Foundation) to regularly remove graffiti from these locations. The funds from this grant will equip volunteers with the tools and materials to remove graffiti on a bi-yearly basis. 

Carolina Climbers Coalition

Table Rock State Park, Pickens, South Carolina

The Carolina Climbers Coalition (CCC) will use funds to build approximately 1.9 miles of trail leading to a never been open cliff called Pumpkintown. Currently an old logging road exists going up the escarpment for about 1 mile. This logging road does not reach the cliff base, which is the remaining 0.9 miles. The CCC will undergo phase 1 of trail construction, which is clearing the corridor for machine cutting and bench cutting by hand necessary spots. Opening of this new cliff is contingent upon an approach trail being built. 

AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant Selection Committee:

Rob Abramowitz, Audrey Todd Borisov, Elisabeth Bowers, Eddie Espinosa, Emily Hendrick, Matt Hepp, Ryan Kuehn, Jay Parks, Joe Sambataro, Jenna Winkler

Photo courtesy of Methow Valley Climbers (Methow Chapter of the Washington Climbers Coalition)

Action Alert: Thank Reps. Huffman and Fitzpatrick for ANWR Win

A Big Win For The Arctic Refuge!

September 12, 2019 was a monumental day in the House of Representatives. The Arctic Cultural and Coastal Plain Protection Act (H.R. 1146) passed in a historic 225-193 vote. This bill repeals a provision in the 2017 GOP Tax Bill mandating oil and gas lease sales in the Refuge’s coastal plain and works to protect this critical landscape from the energy dominance agenda held by the current administration.

The champions behind this bill are Reps Jared Huffman from California and Brian Fitzpatrick of Pennsylvania. While the battle is not yet won, as the bill will now need to make its way through the Senate, we must take a moment to appreciate the hard work and effort that has gone into protecting this American treasure. The AAC wants to thank these supporters of the Arctic for seeing the value in conservation and for reaching across the aisle to fight for this critical ecosystem and the Alaska Native communities who have been stewards of this land and rely on it to live a full life.

Please take a moment to share your thanks with Rep. Huffman and Rep. Fitzpatrick!

American Alpine Club Heads to DC for Fourth Annual Climb the Hill

The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for our fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. We’ll be bringing professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.

This year AAC and Access Fund will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action.

Here’s how you can get involved:

Join us for the Senate Reception in DC.

Follow along while we’re on the Hill.

Show your support for our climate work with this Facebook frame.

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September 10, 2019, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund are heading to Washington, DC for their fourth annual Climb the Hill event September 18-21. The two leading climbing advocacy non-profits will bring professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and advocacy partners to Capitol Hill to advocate for the lands and climate that are vital to climbing and outdoor recreation.

The Climb the Hill team, which includes renowned climbers Alex Honnold, Sasha DiGiulian, and Tommy Caldwell will meet with law and policymakers to advocate for increased access to public lands, environmental protections, and balanced energy policies on public lands.

According to Access Fund, nearly 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federally managed public land. The protection of these lands and the environment surrounding them is critical to the future of climbing and the safety of climbers. Access Fund and the AAC will represent climbers by pursuing legislative and administrative action on recreation access and enhancement, energy development and leasing reform, funding for public land management agencies, recreation and conservation land designations, and climate change action. 

The Climb the Hill team will include representatives from prominent outdoor industry brands, such as Patagonia, Adidas, The North Face, CLIF, Brooklyn Boulders and REI. An array of non-profit and community partners will also join the team, including American Mountain Guides Association, Outdoor Alliance, Latino Outdoors, Brothers of Climbing, Brown Girls Climb, Sending in Color, Adaptive Climbing Group, Salt Lake Climbers’ Alliance, Red River Gorge Climbers, The Mountaineers, Protect Our Winters, and Outdoor Industry Association.

“Climbing is exploding in popularity, and this trend will continue into the future with the Olympics on the horizon. Our growing community is increasingly diverse and passionate about recreational access, protecting public lands, and supporting our land management agencies. With Climb the Hill, we’re bringing that message to policymakers in Washington, DC who hold in their hands the future of our public lands,” said Chris Winter, Executive Director of Access Fund.  

“Climb the Hill is among our most effective ways to address the issues facing climbers on our nation's public lands. I am extremely pleased that over the years, the teams that make it great have become ever more diverse, dedicated and well-versed in the policy agenda we bring to our nation's decision-makers,” stated Phil Powers, CEO of AAC.

Learn more about this joint project at: ClimbTheHill.org

Climb the Hill Advocate Highlight: Shelma Jun and Pete Ward

Shelma Jun is the founder of Flash Foxy and the Women’s Climbing Festival. Shelma is a current Board Member of the Access Fund and in 2017, was named one of 40 women who’ve made the biggest impact in the outdoor world by Outside Magazine. A leader in our community, she has written, spoken and presented on the importance of creating a climbing community that reflects and welcomes everyone who identifies as a climber. A California native currently based in Brooklyn, NY, Shelma can often be found plugging widgets into horizontal cracks at the Gunks or getting scared on granite highballs in Bishop.

Climb the Hill Q&A

Q: What about the event excites you?

A: It's always exciting to have climbers come together to meet with our elected officials and let them know what's important to us. I'm especially excited this year to have the additional insight and resource that the Climb the Hill JEDI (Justice, Equity, Diversity, Inclusion) Taskforce are bringing to this event. Super thankful for all the Taskforce members who volunteered their time throughout the year.

Q: What are you most excited to highlight to representatives while on the Hill?

A: I'm excited to highlight how diverse climbing is getting. Also to highlight that Public Lands are for everyone and we need to not only protect them, but also make sure that everyone has access to be able to appreciate them.

Q: Where is your favorite local crag?

A: I learned to climb in the Shawangunks (thought by some to be the Munsee Lenape name of the area) and it will always be a very special place to me. Though not "local," I also spend a lot of my time in the Eastern Sierra (also known as Pamidu Toiyabe by the Paiute/Numuu tribes of the region).

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Pete Ward is a Board Member of the American Alpine Club (AAC) as well as a member of the AAC Policy Committee. He has woven climbing, its values, history, culture and global community into his life and career. He began his climbing journey as a rescue ranger at the Gunks in New Paltz, NY and continued across the US, when producing bouldering competitions with the specific aim of communicating climbing and what makes it brilliant to an urban audience. Recently, he has been living and climbing in Switzerland and Oxford, England where the limestone is proud as is the history on grit. Peter is an entrepreneur, working on blockchain and machine learning technologies.

Climb the Hill Q&A

Q: What about the event excites you?

A: I'm excited to see the depth and breadth of the climbing community advocating on the issues that matter most to us, as well as reaching out to expand our inclusivity and spread our values.

Q: What are you most excited to highlight to representatives while on the Hill?

A: The blinding priority of our time is climate change - that ship is sailing and we need to be focused on it. I'm also excited that the Justice, Equity, Diversity, & Inclusion (JEDI) Task Force exists and that its perspectives are being represented in a powerful way.

Q: Where is your favorite local crag?

A: I've always had a soft spot in my heart for Farley, MA. It punches far above its weight class in its quality of bouldering problems… Of course, I learned how to climb in the Shawangunk's and I will always love that spot!

The Impact of Trade Wars and Tariffs on the Outdoor Recreation Economy

The words “tariff” and “trade wars” are plastering the newscycle this month. With 25% tariffs in effect and more drama brewing between the U.S. and China, we wanted to unpack what tariffs are, the impact they have on the outdoor recreation economy, and what we can do to support outdoor retailers and the towns impacted by the economic blows during this time.

In short, tariffs are taxes on global imported goods received at the ports of entry. Governments utilize tariffs as a tool to keep American spending within our country to increase the national economy. By raising prices on imported products, retailers then have to sell these items for more money creating an incentive for consumers to purchase lower-cost American goods. 

The current administration has announced that it is committed to “American Protectionism,” which puts American businesses and manufacturing first in order to tax our global competitors. What complicates this notion is our modern day global economy. Many finished products purchased in the U.S. either contain material parts imported from other countries or were assembled in different countries around the world. Applying tariffs aren’t so cut and dry. 

Zooming out a bit, it is important to remember the impact that the outdoor recreation economy has on the greater U.S. economy. According to the Outdoor Industry Association’s (OIA) latest report on The Outdoor Recreation Economy, released in 2017, outdoor recreation raised over $880 billion in consumer spending and generated 7.6 million jobs, and these numbers continue to grow annually. Outdoor recreation is a powerful force in the U.S. economy and outdoor industry leaders need a spot at the table when discussing taxes that impact their industry. 

Photo Source: Tariffs Hurt American Outdoor Businesses, and How (OIA)

Currently, there are 25% tariffs on imported steel from select countries and 10% on imported aluminum. As an example of potential tariff impacts on the climbing community, camalots are made from steel (piece on Black Diamond cams here). Meaning it could potentially cost 25% more to manufacture cams abroad, which most companies do, including major players like Black Diamond and Metolius. The total cost of the steel tariff alone is $15.5 billion. While these numbers are jarring, according to research and reporting done by OIA, the hardest part of the ongoing tariff wars aren’t the tariffs themselves, but the “unpredictability of the Trump administration’s trade policies.” 

Companies often release pricing for next years’ product line in advance, so any modifications may present a challenge. Once tariffs are in place, companies are forced to either raise prices significantly for the consumer or to simply absorb the cost internally. Companies are then required to be reactive rather than proactive in their planning, negatively impacting innovation, design, customer service, and internal human resources.

When it comes to getting outdoors, The American Alpine Club doesn’t want to see tariffs creating additional barriers. According to an article recently published by OIA, Patricia Rojas-Ungar, OIA’s Vice President of Government Affairs, stated that all sorts of gear from “jackets to backpacks to hiking boots will see increases in tariffs of up to 30%.” She goes on to warn that due to these dramatic increases, businesses in the outdoor industry will be forced to make “drastic decisions” like hiring fewer employees. Or for smaller businesses, potentially closing their doors all together. She concludes by stating that the trade wars “have to stop, and real trade negotiations need to begin in earnest. . . . [k]nee-jerk reactions have long term devastating impacts on Americans, and we need Congress to stand up for its constituents.”  

OIA has created an Action Alert - tell your representatives that the tariff wars are negatively impacting you and your greater outdoor recreation industry.

Action Alert: Keep the Climbing Community's Voice in Public Land Management

The Forest Service is Proposing Changes to NEPA: Please Sign Our Action Alert to Ask Them to Stop!

Signed into law January 1, 1970, the National Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) was the first major environmental law in the United States and is often referred to as the “Magna Carta” of environmental laws. While it created the Council on Environmental Quality, NEPA is most well-known for requiring the federal government to analyze the environmental impact of its decisions. Which decisions you ask?

NEPA requires that actions by “all agencies of the Federal Government” which are deemed to be “major Federal actions significantly affecting the quality of the human environment” must be accompanied by “a detailed statement by the responsible official on the environmental impact of the proposed action.” By requiring this environmental review process, agencies like the National Forest Service must “…use all practicable means, consistent with other essential considerations of national policy’ to avoid environmental degradation, preserve ‘historic, cultural and natural’ resources and promote ‘the widest range of beneficial uses of the environment without…undesirable and unintended consequences.”

Whether through an Environmental Assessment (EA), or an Environmental Impact Statement (EIS), the review process provides an opportunity for the public to weigh in on Federal decision making and offer thoughts on agency analysis as well as to propose alternatives to chosen actions. These public comment periods are critical to the work we do at the American Alpine Club, alongside the members of the Outdoor Alliance, on such important public land management issues as Forest Plan Revisions or Forest Service Projects.

Currently, the U.S. Forest Service is considering sweeping changes to how it implements NEPA that would drastically limit public engagement on up to 93% of USFS projects, allowing actions like logging and road building to proceed without environmental review or public comment. This would be accomplished by the addition of several new Categorical Exclusions (CE’s), which require limited environmental analysis and public involvement. If a project is granted a CE, extended amount of environmental review, either through and EA or more extensive EIS, is not required. For climbers these changes would be detrimental considering that, according to the Access Fund, there are over 10,000 climbing areas located on USFS lands across the country. These proposed changes could cut the climbing community out of the planning process and a risk degradation to our cherished climbing environment.

Supporters of this “fast-tracking” of agency actions claim the Forest Service is simply increasing the efficiency of its review process. While there may be legitimate reasons to increase the efficiency of agency reviews, they should not come at the cost of public involvement or at the quality of our clean air and water, wildlife habitat, and recreation access on federal lands.

The Forest Service is accepting public comments on this proposed rule change until this coming Monday, August 26th. At the AAC, we want our public land managers to provide proper opportunities for public comment and the evaluation of agency impacts to the environment. The proposed changes by the Forest Service do not provide the necessary transparency, community engagement or agency accountability that we expect of our land managers.

Please take a moment to let the US Forest Service know that you disagree with their changes to NEPA.

Simul-Rappelling

It is not uncommon for rappelling climbers to commit to a simultaneous counterweight arrangement for rappelling. In this arrangement, the descending climbers can rappel simultaneously, and it is commonly referred to as simul-rappelling. When performed correctly, simul-rappelling results in a measurable efficiency, requiring less time for the two rappellers to move simultaneously than taking turns. However, the counterweight arrangement of simul-rappelling makes the climbers interdependent. If either climber loses control, makes a mistake in rigging, or if either side of the counterweighted rope is severed, both climbers suffer the consequences of the mishap/mistake.

As result, simul-rappelling is a technique that should only be selectively and carefully deployed. If not, if climbers fail to justify the technique or use it too causally, the probability of a single mistake affecting both climbers increases. Instead, the following principles can be used to justify simul-rappelling, or reject the technique when it is not justifiable, and they can provide some guidance for rigging a simul-rappel in a way that minimizes the opportunities for a catastrophic error.

1. Only the aggregated efficiencies of simul-rappelling justify the risks involved. On a single rappel, simul-rappelling may only save the team seconds, but multiple rappels can aggregate their efficiencies for a measurable benefit.

2. Simul-Rappelling magnifies the importance of best rappelling practices. Remaining secure during setup, using appropriate backups, managing the ends of the rope, and avoiding entanglements are concepts vital to all rappelling, but simul-rappelling arrangements demand that both rappellers adhere to sound fundamentals.

3. Since the risks of simul-rappelling are severe, and since efficiencies are part of what justifies the technique in the first place, the simplest setups with the fewest components are easier to double-check, easier to inspect, and harder to mistake.

Long well-bolted climbs like Space Boyz require many rappels to descend. In this kind of context, the efficiencies of simul-rappelling might justify the technique.

The rappel descents from a place like Seneca Rocks just aren’t long enough to necessitate Simul-Rappelling. It’s harder to justify such a consequential arrangement when the efficiencies don’t add up.

If a descending team decides to simul rappel, the rigging is critical. If both rappellers use an assisted braking device, like a grigri, if they enlist a knot-block at the anchor, and if they interconnect their tethers and anchor, they’ve set up a simul-rappelling rig that provides quick transitions at each anchor and provides the rappelling team with a few different kinds of backups.

Assuming a simul-rappel is justifiable, both rappellers can find efficiencies from using Assisted Braking Devices. As always, managing the ends of the rope is a wise choice.

Blocking a knot isolates at least one of the rappellers from the consequences of the counterweight arrangement.

The interconnected rappellers can give each other a backup when there is a blocked knot in the rope. Plus, the rappelling team can simply bump this anchor from one station to the next, staying connected during the entire rappel.