We've Signed the Indigenous Field Guide, Here's Why

PC: Dawn Kish. Recreating at Oak Flat, land sacred to the San Carlos Apache Tribe.

When we were first asked to sign the Indigenous Field Guide pledge, we as an organization were challenged by how broad many of the tenets were, and how they were inconsistent with many of the current practices of climbers today. While some of the tenets of the pledge ring familiar with Leave No Trace Ethics, such as respecting rock art and staying on trails, other elements of the pledge—such as refraining from rock stacking, or seeking permission to share geographic locations from local Tribes—initially led us to a place of defensiveness. However, we also recognized this reaction should be seen as an impetus to really examine what the pact meant, and why we were reacting in this way.

The AAC has decided to sign onto the pledge, and we’re happy to share why.

Coming from a perspective of Western thought, we are accustomed to taking pacts such as these literally, assigning truth to every word, and were thus afraid we would be signing it performatively. We feared that we would not be able to fully comply with the pact, and instead would continue the pattern of broken promises experienced by Indigenous Tribes since the days of early settlers.

However, through multiple and overlapping conversations with the writers of the Indigenous Field Guide, we came to understand the spirit of the pledge and the value of committing to it despite our hesitations. Fear of failing would only prevent us from growing.

For example, we learned through various discussions with the writers of the pledge that the deepest importance of the imperative to seek permission before sharing coordinates is about protecting undefended Indigenous archeological and cultural sites that are as yet unrecognized or do not have conservation protections. This imperative is a manifestation of the last and most comprehensive directive from the Indigenous Field Guide writers: “I promise that exploration and first ascents are never more important than cultural resources.”

The AAC has a long-standing practice of publishing GPS coordinates of new routes in order to fulfill our mission of supporting and informing climbers. In fact, the sharing of GPS coordinates seemed a step in the direction of inclusion, so that no one developer or elite climber would “hoard” or gate-keep knowledge of a particular climbing area and make climbing that much less accessible for many people. Yet we had not considered how in certain cases, such sharing of coordinates can threaten areas of cultural significance to Indigenous peoples, with increased traffic threatening the spirituality of the sacred place, increasing erosion, and increasing potential defacement. 

In addition, we learned that the request to not stack rocks is not a ban on cairns, but rather a way to highlight that the land should be as untouched as possible, and remain exactly as it is, unless steps are necessary (such as marking a trail in wilderness areas) in order to accomplish that goal of minimal impact. Specifically, balancing rocks and creating rock gardens in rivers and streams can destroy fish habitats in the immediate vicinity and downstream. 

We as an organization have signed the Indigenous Field Guide Pledge and have started examining how we can transform our internal practices to align with what we have learned. By committing to the pledge, we are committing to staying in the conversation as we move forward collectively. What does that look like for us, the AAC?

  • We continue to encourage climbers to be conscientious of their impacts on land and people.

  • Moving forward, the American Alpine Club strongly encourages grant applicants to consider the locations of their pursuits, and when possible to seek out consent from local Tribes before climbing and before publicly sharing coordinates. For many of the grants, having the endorsement of local Tribes will be a condition for the grant to be awarded. 

  • In cases where publication of coordinates might draw large numbers of new visitors to an area, the editors will urge contributors to our publications to consult with local Tribal leaders about the sensitivity of the area and any potential impacts.

We encourage our members and community to learn more here and to sign the pledge for themselves, if they likewise see value in holding themselves accountable to learning and recreating with this context of Indigenous knowledge. 

The Line — January 2023

The Line is the monthly newsletter of the American Alpine Journal.

HARD ROCK IN IDAHO

Above: Zach Cook leads the ninth pitch of Milwaukee’s Best. Top: The northeast face of Storm Dome in the Salmon River Mountains of Idaho. Photos by Michal Matyjasik.

It’s rare that the very first routes up a backcountry wall are 5.12 or harder, but that’s the case for the northeast face of Storm Dome, near McCall, Idaho. The sheer 275-meter wall is reached by a strenuous eight-mile hike from the road, and though attempts had been made, no routes had been completed before 2021. “From the few photos I had seen and based on a scouting mission, the wall seemed devoid of continuous crack systems but highly featured,” writes Michal Matyjasik in his report for the 2023 AAJ.

During the summers of 2021 and 2022, Matyjasik and partners Zach Cook, Duncan Ralph, and Abe Rigeb made numerous trips to the wall and established two high-quality free routes, protected by a mix of bolts and traditional gear: Milwaukee’s Best (9 pitches, IV 5.12 PG-13) and Heart of Diamond (7 pitches, IV 5.13 PG-13), the latter with three 5.13 pitches. Read Matyjasik’s dispatch from Storm Dome at the AAJ website.


SLOVAKS ON THE SLOVAK

Richard Nemec onsighting the crux rock band (M8) of the variation most often climbed on the Slovak Direct route of Denali’s south face. Photo by Michal Sabovčík.

The Slovak Direct on Denali, one of the premier hard alpine climbs in North America, made the news last spring when two American teams climbed the route in less than 24 hours. Less attention went to a pair of Slovak climbers who succeeded with their own single-push ascent of the 9,000-vertical-foot climb in 2022: Richard Nemec and Michal Sabovčík climbed the route in just 40 hours, all free (WI6 M8) and with no bivouac, despite a malfunctioning stove that left them desperately dehydrated on the final push to the summit. Read their report at the AAJ website.

Want more Slovak Direct? Episode 53 of the Cutting Edge podcast featured an in-depth interview with Matt Cornell, Steve House, and Rob Smith, talking about their own single-push climbs of this legendary route.


Join the Club—United We Climb.

Get the AAJ Sent to You Annually

Partner-level members receive The American Alpine Journal book every year. Documenting mountain exploration and the year’s most significant ascents through first-person reports and photos, it’s an essential historical record and a feast of inspiration.

Rescue & Medical Expense Coverage

Climbing can be a risky pursuit, but one worth the price of admission. Partner-level members and up receive $7,500 in rescue services and $5,000 in emergency medical expense coverage. Looking for deeper coverage? Sign up for the Leader level and receive $300k in rescue services.


NEVER TOO LATE

The Tani-Yamada route on the northwest face of Kangchung Nup. Photo by Takeshi Tani.

Takeshi Tani, a Japanese climber who lives and guides full-time in Canada, made the first ascent of the much-eyed northwest face of Kangchung Nup in Nepal with his friend Toshiyuki Yamada in 2022. In his new AAJ report, Tani wrote, “Five years earlier, Toshiyuki had asked me to go to the Himalaya, but at the time I was struggling to make a living in Canada, trying to master English, and busy with my Association of Canadian Mountain Guides training course. He asked me again every year. It was just an excuse on my part, but I had never heard of anyone who had just become a guide at the age of 40 going to the Himalaya for a new route.”

In the spring of 2022, the two finally made the trip, and the result was a two-day climb of the 900-meter face (with two more bivouacs on the approach and descent). Once on top of the 6,043-meter peak, Tani wrote, “The feeling was the same as when I climbed in the Japanese Alps for my first time: The surrounding mountains were just so beautiful.”


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A HARD WAY DOWN DENALI

One of the foremost big-mountain skiers of our time is Tiphaine Duperier from France, who contributes regularly to the AAJ. In late May, she and Boris Langenstein skied a wild line down the southwest face of Denali in Alaska, dropping more than 3,800 meters from the summit. AAC board member and pro skier Brody Leven interviewed her for Episode 58 of the Cutting Edge podcast.


LAST CALL FOR AAJ REPORTS

The 2023 American Alpine Journal will go to press in April, and the deadline for new reports is coming up fast. If you or someone you know climbed a long new route in 2022 on rock, ice, or mountain terrain, we want to hear about it. (“Long” depends on the climbing style, difficulty, and area, but in most cases we’re talking at least six pitches.) The deadline for the 2023 book is January 31! Email us at [email protected].


Sign up for AAC Emails

The Line is the newsletter of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), emailed to more than 75,000 climbers each month. Find the archive of past editions here. Interested in supporting this online publication? Contact Billy Dixon for opportunities. Suggestions? Email us: [email protected].


Guidebook X

The AAC’s Guidebook is our annual storytelling publication, capturing the stories of the people and issues that are at the forefront of the climbing communities mind. AAC members receive a print copy annually.

In this issue, we feature the filmography of up-and-coming director Marie-Louise Nkashama, explore the prolific history of route developer Jeff Jackson, investigate how groups on the ground are making climbing more inclusive, and highlight the story of an AAC volunteer who has given so much back to the community through YOSAR and storytelling.

Our feature articles do a deep dive into the AAC’s work to protect Pine Mountain, CA, from deforestation; retell the story of cutting-edge expeditions to Proboscis; highlight the intricacies of the conversation around oppressive and offensive route naming; and reminisce about the first successful climbing expedition to the Antarctic.

From cutting-edge climbing stories, to public lands, inclusive climbing community, and just plain cool climbers, you can find the breadth of the climbing community in these pages.

The Prescription—Free Solo Fall— December 2022

The following report will appear in the 2023 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing. You can purchase the 2022 book and many previous editions through the AAC Store.

Free Solo Fall

Southern California, El Cajon Mountain, The Wedge

El Cajon Mountain, seen here, was scene of a recent free solo fatality. The route in question is Leonids, which climbs the face to the left of the angling dihedral and the sun-shade line. Photo: Michael Sandler

On December 4, Nathaniel Masahi Takatsuno (22) fell to his death while free soloing Leonids, a three-pitch 5.9 on The Wedge at El Cajon Mountain an hour east of San Diego.

Climber Michael Sandler witnessed the accident. In his report to Accidents, he wrote:

“As we were waiting (at the base), a single man walked by. I asked what his name was and we made some small talk. His name was Nate (Takatsuno), and he was a lab tech at University of California San Diego. He was alone but had a rope, so I asked him what route he was planning to do. He told me he wanted to solo Meteor—I asked if he was going to rope solo. He said no but was planning to carry up the rope in a pack and use it to rappel. I asked if he just didn't have any friends who wanted to climb, and he said that he did, but that he liked soloing. We observed that he was not planning to wear a helmet.

“At this point he started up the crag. He seemed gripped on even the third bolt—he was on the nearby Leonids (5.9) and not his intended route, Meteor (5.8). However, he made it up past the tricky start and kept heading up. As he did so, he would occasionally grab bolts; he had a small amount of gear with him to assist in this. He passed by another party that was already rappelling down the formation. They exchanged some words and asked if he was doing well. They reported that he was continuing to occasionally grab bolts.

“I was leading the first pitch of our route, when I felt a soft thud and gust of wind. I looked around and saw him fall to the ground.”

Sandler also said, “He (Takatsuno) was on the second pitch of either Meteor or Leonids, not sure. The two routes are very close together. He hit the trail and then continued down the steep hillside. Another party had just finished rappelling to the ground. I asked my partner Andrew to tie me off and I went direct into the closest bolt. A member of the other party said he was a Wilderness First Responder, so he went down the hillside to help. We immediately called 911 and were on the phone with the operator for the next 40 minutes.”

Helicopter from the San Diego County Sheriff’s Department lowering a paramedic to the accident scene. Photo: Michael Sandler

Sandler continued, “Helicopters arrived in approximately 45 minutes and dropped a paramedic. He took our info, looked at Nate, and then was picked up by the helicopter. We called the sheriff's office to figure out what they wanted us to do. They made it sound like it was alright for us to go, but we felt that they would be unable to find the body without very clear markers. We used climbing tape to mark the location.”

According to Climbing.com, Takatsuno’s body could not be recovered until the following day due to the late time of the accident.

Analysis

While we cannot ascertain what caused the fall, the route was in the sun, which may have been a factor. Sandler wrote, “It's south-facing and pretty inland, so it gets pretty hot (and it was definitely pretty warm that day). The easier climbing is usually techy face climbing, it never quite feels 'comfortable.’”

Rock quality may have played a factor. The Wedge was described in a 2010 Mountain Project post as having “plenty of ready-to-snap micro flakes and a few larger hollow bits.” ANAC Southern California reporter Christy Rosa, who has climbed Leonids, says, “The route he was on is 350 to 400 feet long, mostly solid granite, but a bit crumbly and flakey at a few points.” She adds, “It is one of the best routes in San Diego, so it's well traveled.”

Climbers on Meteor, the route to the right of Leonids. It is clear how close the falling free soloist was to Sandler. Photo: Josh Bedard

While there’s not much educational nor technical analysis to be made in free solo accidents, Rosa notes that this incident was the third free solo death in Southern California this year. As an ER doctor, her assessment is suitably objective, “The increased number of free solo accidents is simple math: More people are free soloing. This is likely a combination of seeing others successfully do it, and perhaps an increase in risk tolerance, as the pandemic has changed most of us.”

Sandler had several things to say. He pointed out that, “If, for whatever reason, you must free solo, do so on climbs well below your ability, ideally ones you have done before. From our discussion with Nate and his apparent discomfort on the climb, this was not an appropriate climb to be ropeless on.” Perhaps Sandler’s most important observation was to encourage soloists to think of others. “As a free soloist, you put the lives of those below you at risk. He flew by less than five feet from me; a collision could have led to serious trauma for myself.” Witnessing trauma can itself be traumatic. Sandler adds, “Thankfully, I'm doing okay. I had regular flashbacks for probably a week or so afterward, but those have thankfully become less frequent.”


Join the Club—United We Climb.

Get Accidents Sent to You Annually

Partner-level members receive the Accidents in North American Climbing book every year. Detailing the most noteworthy climbing and skiing accidents each year, climbers, rangers, rescue professionals, and editors analyze what went wrong, so you can learn from others’ mistakes.

Rescue & Medical Expense Coverage

Climbing can be a risky pursuit, but one worth the price of admission. Partner-level members receive $7,500 in rescue services and $5,000 in emergency medical expense coverage. Looking for deeper coverage? Sign up for the Leader level and receive $300k in rescue services.


Happy Warnings from the Editor

It’s the holiday season at Chulilla in eastern Spain. It’s my first time in this world-class area, and I’m fortunate to be clipping bolts on warm Spanish limestone. It’s a reminder that, while favoring athleticism over risk, sport climbing arguably holds perils for a greater number of climbers than other discipline, due to the sheer volume of participants and the repetition of critical tasks. The latter includes lowering, untying, retying, taking, and catching leader falls. Beginners and experts alike can benefit from remembering good belay practice, and even then, accidents can occur when unusual factors come into play.

A few days ago, I was belaying a partner on a difficult 40-meter pitch. He was using a brand new 8.9mm rope in order to write an online gear review. Though there were plenty of falls and takes, one hazard we avoided was unintentional slippage from a skinny and very slick rope. This can be an issue even when the belayer does (almost) everything right.

So, as I wish you safe and happy holidays, I’ll leave you with a short video that addresses this potential hazard. The video, which focuses on the Petzl Grigri but applies in similar ways to any assisted-braking belay device, is from a YouTube channel called Hard Is Easy. @HardIsEasy takes an analytic and often entertaining approach to gear, training, and technique. — Pete Takeda


DMM Swivel Devices Recalled

Recently, DMM was made aware of a near-miss incident involving the failure of a DMM Director connector. These and similar devices are frequently used by rescuers and some possibly by big-wall climbers. Though the user was unhurt, DMM has issued a recall for nine items in their product line.


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 The Prescription newsletter is published monthly by the American Alpine Club.


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The AAC Podcast Wants Your Craziest Climbing Stories!

Photo by AAC member Joe Virtanen

Have you ever taken a 100-foot fall into a cactus, and walked away with basically no injuries? Taken a whip on a can of pinto beans, just to see what would happen? Or had to deal with a bullet wound while out climbing, like Aubrey Runyon discusses in our recent podcast episode “CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 Pitches in Eldo”? Maybe it’s the biggest whip you almost had to take, or an encounter with an alpine ghost…whatever it is, we want to hear the stories of your craziest day while climbing.

We’re not necessarily asking for your worst crag stories ever, or stories of accidents in the backcountry, though that might be wrapped up in all the crazy. But tell us the most absurd, completely out-there stories that you can think of, and we might feature your story on our podcast!

One of our episodes in January will feature the stories of AAC community members like you. Make sure to submit your stories before January 1st 2023 to get the chance to be featured.

The Line—Buried Treasure

AAJ 2022—AN INSIDER’S GUIDE

This edition of The Line features our annual look at hidden gems in the new AAJ that readers might have overlooked. (See also the “Buried Treasure” guides to AAJs 2020 and 2021.) As the editor-in-chief of the AAJ, these stories, photos, and quotes made me smile as we were preparing the 2022 book, and they still brighten my day whenever I see them. I hope you feel the same. — Dougald MacDonald, Editor

This online feature is made possible by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, presenting sponsor of the AAJ’s Cutting Edge Podcast. 

Skiing the French Spur on the south face of Gasherbrum II. Photo by Tiphaine Duperier.

Snow Reports

Michael Gardner astride the Infinite Spur in Denali National Park in 2019. Photo by Sam Hennessey.

During the last few years, the AAJ has significantly increased its coverage of ski mountaineering. Sam Hennessey’s story about first ski descents, first ascents with skis on their backs, and extended climb-and-ski traverses in Denali National Park was perhaps the most eye-opening feature story of the 2022 AAJ. Unless you closely read the Climbs & Expeditions section, however, you might miss the incredible reports from Tiphaine Duperier: The Frenchwoman and her regular skiing partner, Boris Langenstein, are two of the leading high-altitude skiers in the world. In this edition alone, Tiphaine described five first descents on high peaks in Pakistan, including one on Gasherbrum II. And they’ll be back with more reports in the 2023 book, too: They skied a wild new descent route on Denali last spring.

The Expander

Everyone loves a clever route name, and the backstory on “The Expander” is superb: The name describes a link-up of four classic routes in the High Tatras of Poland that just recently was done for the first time in winter. In his AAJ story, Kacper Tekieli explains that the Expander is named after an old-fashioned “chest expander” exercise device, a contraption with two handles separated by three or four springy bands. Polish climber Maciej Gryczyński, who put up all four of the routes in the link-up during the 1960s, was nicknamed Sprężyna (“Spring”) because of his curly hair. Each of his four routes is also called Sprężyna. Connect the four springs, and what do you get? The Expander!

Home Field Advantage

In recent years the AAJ has expanded coverage of important climbs in the Alps, recognizing that some of these first ascents are at least as long and difficult as those in the Greater Ranges, minus only the altitude. (For similar reasons, we’ve also expanded the New Zealand section.) We’re keen to highlight the ways that creative climbers are finding worthy challenges close to their homes, thus avoiding carbon-spewing plane flights. Plus, many of these climbs are just beautiful. To see what we mean, check out the photo gallery above, highlighting a few Alpine routes documented in the 2022 AAJ.

Mysterious Mountain

Top: Traversing from Pico Norte (ca 5,300m) to Pico La Cresta (5,200m) on day one of the Nevado del Huila traverse. Above: Indigenous guide Luis Silva Pete descends loose rock bathed in eerie volcanic smoke. Photos by Thomas Palmer.

Among the highlights of every AAJ are reports from little-known mountains all over the world. A standout in 2022 was British mountaineer Thomas Palmer’s story about the first known traverse of the four summits of Volcán Nevado del Huila, the highest volcano in Colombia. The glacier-covered massif’s frequent eruptions, extreme isolation, and Colombia’s ongoing conflicts make it a challenging destination, to say the least. In 2021, Palmer and an international team of climbers from France, Colombia, and a nearby Indigenous community made the traverse over two long days, encountering green volcanic smoke, the weird sound of dogs barking in the distance, and other mysteries. Read his story here.

Duly Noted

Luck is a generous gift one cannot count on receiving, yet we rely on it every time we start up a big mountain.
— Brette Harrington

This superb quote comes from Brette Harrington’s report about a new route on Mt. Niblock in the Canadian Rockies, climbed with Dylan Cunningham. She was leading a low-angle slab, which became coated in verglas as she moved up, making it impossible to retreat. “I was quite afraid: unable to find a single placement of gear, knowing that the anchor below was an array of questionable pins. I angled toward the eastern skyline, where I landed a lucky strike and slung a frozen chockstone as my first piece of protection”—the generous gift in Harrington’s apt quote.

A Mini-Epic in the Sierra

Approaching the previously unnamed summit dubbed Marie Maynard Daly Peak, after the first African American woman to earn a Ph.D. in chemistry. Photo by Cameron Smith.

Cameron Smith and partners put up three routes on a previously unnamed formation in the High Sierra—despite an unfortunate moment on the second climb, when “one of my approach shoes emancipated itself from my harness while I led through a squeeze, never to be seen again.” Smith wrote in the AAJ that he had to make the several-mile trek back to camp with one climbing shoe taped to the front of his foot. Undeterred, he returned to the face the next day, now wearing a pair of dollar-store flip-flops he’d brought for camp; Smith made the approach and descent off the peak, and then hiked all the way out to Lone Pine in those flip-flops.

Perhaps inspired by the lifelong perseverance shown by Marie Maynard Daly, the late researcher (1921–2003) who was the first African American woman to receive a Ph.D. in chemistry in the United States, the climbers proposed naming this summit Marie Maynard Daly Peak.

Olympic gold medalist Janja Garnbret from Slovenia during the first 8c (5.14b) onsight by a woman: Fish Eye in Oliana, Spain. Photo by Roman Krajnik.

Milestones

“The climbs featured in the American Alpine Journal don’t occur in a vacuum—they reflect the broader evolution of climbing styles and performance around the world.” That’s the introduction to our annual Milestones section, which we added to the AAJ a few years ago, in an effort to truly reflect “the world’s most significant climbs.” The AAJ’s historical mission has been to document mountaineering and long rock climbs, and we could never print enough pages to add in-depth coverage of sport climbing, bouldering, and achievements on other short routes. Nevertheless, in our view, a cutting-edge sport climb or boulder problem is just as “significant” as a high-altitude first ascent, and over the long term, shorter climbs have profoundly shaped the ability and interests of alpine and big-wall climbers. With the Milestones section, the AAJ celebrates this fact.


This year in review and the AAJ’s Cutting Edge podcast are both presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker. Visit Hilleberg’s website to order “The Tent Handbook,” their uniquely informative catalog.


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Sign Up for AAC Emails

The Line is the newsletter of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), emailed to more than 75,000 climbers each month. Find the archive of past editions here. Interested in supporting this online publication? Contact Billy Dixon for opportunities. Suggestions? Email us: [email protected].

EDUCATE: The Art of Shralpinism, with Jeremy Jones

Legendary backcountry snowboarder Jeremy Jones describes being in the mountains as “The idiot’s guide to the present moment.” This wisdom and so much more shines through in this interview with Jeremy about his new book, The Art of Shralpinsm: Lessons from the Mountains. Shralpinism, or the art of shredding and alpinism combined, is, according to Jeremy, a mix of the wisdom of reading avalanche danger, the science of changing conditions due to climate change, the art of evaluating risk and pushing past fear, and so much more. Jeremy shares stories from his many years of snowboarding in Alaska and other big mountain ranges, his tips on training, why he fell in love with going up as well as flowing down mountains, why most climbers should learn a little something about snow, and how to wrestle with the hard lessons the mountains teach you about danger, risk, and confidence. Listen in to this episode to get stoked and learn from the legendary big mountain shredder, originator of Jones Snowboards and Protect Our Winters, and devoted practitioner of the Church of the Seven-day Recreationalists.

You can get a copy of “The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains” here: www.mountaineers.org/books/books/th…-the-mountains



Get Covered for All Your Backcountry Adventure with the AAC Rescue Benefit and Medical Expense Coverage


Episode Resources:

Buy the Book The Art of Shralpinism: Lessons from the Mountains

Learn more about Jeremy Jones

Learn more about Protect Our Winters

Learn more about Jones Snowboards

CLIMB: Confessions of an Ice Climber

According to Tyler Kempney, a competitor for the USA Ice Climbing team, ice climbing is the most human form of climbing. In this episode, we discuss this philosophy of ice climbing, training for competing, risk and decision-making in the mountains in winter, and lessons learned from close calls and technical ascents, like Tyler’s FA of Conditional Love on Long’s Peak. We dig into the ice climbing competitions coming up this winter, and why everyone should try ice climbing. And of course, we talk about Tyler’s favorite shape of ice cube.

Find out how to watch the Ice Climbing World Cups and support the USA Ice Climbing team here.



Episode Resources:

Check out the Ice Coop

Learn about the USA Ice Climbing Team

Watch footage of the FA of Conditional Love (WI5-6 M5 R)

Watch the Ice Climbing World Cups

Hill to Crag

"WE'RE DOING EVERYTHING IN OUR POWER TO MAKE SURE THE AIR IS RIGHT."

The Hill to Crag series has been a remarkable success; led by our policy team and key volunteers, our Hill to Crag events have brought together local, state, and national policymakers, state offices of outdoor recreation, and AAC volunteers and staff.

The Hill to Crag events shifts the paradigm of standard advocacy meetings. Rather than visit offices on Capitol Hill or at state capitols, AAC’s Hill to Crag series brings lawmakers to our office–the great outdoors.

Below, take a deep dive into the Hill to Crag event from 2018 to now.

My web page

Help us advocate for public lands, fight climate change, and ensure equitable access to our favorite climbing areas across the country. Programs like Hill to Crag, our grassroots Climbers' Advocacy Network, Climb United, and our many other policy and community initiatives are leading the way, and they are made possible by climbers like you.

Climb United

Building community at the AAC’s Craggin Classic

United We Climb

Every Fall, the American Alpine Club hosts the Craggin Classic, a climbing festival at world-class climbing destinations in the United States. Participants dance wearing glow sticks at night and climb all day. This year the Craggin Classic held Climb United meetups at all locations, creating a safe and welcoming community for everyone.

Climb United works to uplift traditionally marginalized groups in the climbing community. Through intentional programs like the Route Naming Task Force, the Climb United Affiliate Support Network, and the Pull Focus Grant, Climb United is working towards change within the climbing community to welcome all groups. Climb United is all about gaining new perspectives from others to create a more accessible, loving, climbing community.

Take a look at the Moab, New River Gorge, Smith Rock, and Shelf Road CU meetups!

Climbing United

Mountain Goat Movement

An AAC member gives back to his community after receiving the Live Your Dream Grant.

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By: Sierra McGivney

There is nothing like watching the sunrise over the mountains, the whole world still sleeping. Pinks and deep oranges color the sky. On clear and quiet days, the temperature is coldest near or slightly after sunrise. Warm coffee, hot chocolate, or tea is always welcome during this time. 

After years inside, these moments feel more special. All the lives lost and time stolen because of the pandemic make time spent outside invaluable to begin healing. At Mountain Goat Movement (MGM), explorers and teachers show students moments like these and the value of nature through outdoor adventures. 

Morrisey speaking at the AAC’s Annual Benefit Gala in 2018.

For ten years, Greg Morrisey was a high school teacher at Saint Peter’s Preparatory in Jersey City, NJ. He spent the school year building an outdoor education program and the summer going on expeditions. In 2017 Morrisey won the American Alpine Club’s Live Your Dream Grant and completed an unsupported 1,800-mile cycling trip with one of his fellow teachers. In addition, that expedition raised $40,000 for low-income students to come on trips with Morrisey’s outdoor education program.

“That funded about 15 kids, and it was kind of crazy,” says Morrisey.  

Morrisey was asked to speak at the AAC’s Annual Gala alongside Vanessa O'Brien that year. The grant changed his life. 


In June of 2022, Morrisey quit teaching. He took the model he created at Saint Peter’s Preparatory and turned it into Mountain Goat Movement, a program that reaches out to schools primarily in populated cities or suburban areas in New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, and Maryland, to get students into the outdoors. 

Two MGM participants in the Adirondacks, New York. PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

“It's easy in Colorado, Wyoming, and Upstate New York to just walk out your backyard, and go for a beautiful hike, but it's difficult in the greater New York City area so we're trying to rally a community to get in the outdoors and provide resources for anyone and everyone who wants to experience the beauty of nature,” says Morrisey. 

After teaching during COVID-19, Morrisey realized how fractured life was for young people. Students have been on an island these past couple of years and reintegrating into school and society has been a shock to their system. 

Like the true literature teacher he is, Morrisey explains that outdoor adventures are much like the hero’s tale in Western Literature. A young person goes out on an epic quest, leaving their comfort zone, to battle figurative monsters and demons and comes home transformed. Morrisey gives presentations at school about the mental health benefits that can be derived from spending time in nature. He compares it to the hero's journey: Wherever you are, high school or college, you are not that much different than the characters you are reading about. 

A MGM group on the summit of Kilimanjaro.

Unlike Outward Bound or NOLS where participants rarely see their guides again, MGM brings the student’s teachers on the trip. The idea behind MGM is to build connections outdoors and be able to bring that back to the classroom instead of having a one-off trip. In addition, Morrisey hopes that this can also start a conversation about mental health in the classroom and how venturing into the outdoors can benefit mental health for people of all ages. Morrisey goes on every trip to train the student’s teachers with the hope that they can lead their own trips using this model. 

“I think when you're on an expedition or a multi-day experience, and you break bread with people, share tents, hike, and do everything together, it's inevitable that you're going to become close,” says Morrisey. “So taking that experience and then coming back home and building off that is the most beautiful part of all this.”

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Students who might not have ever talked or met suddenly have bonded with one another and become lifelong friends. 

Last July, Morrisey took a group to Kilimanjaro. His whole group summited and watched the sunrise from the top. Everyone cried. Evidently, the softer moments in the outdoors allow for meaningful relationships to form. 

“It's been a very rewarding process of working with young people in the outdoors and teaching kids how to climb, hike, ski, and get outside,” says Morrisey. 

Participants don’t have to travel out of the country to have these experiences. Mountain Goat Movement offers domestic trips like climbing the Grand Teton or hiking all 46 high peaks in the Adirondacks. They do also offer an extensive amount of international trips to Kilimajaro, Costa Rica, and the Himalayas. 

The name behind MGM is intentional. Mountain goats are always trying to seek higher ground to survive. And just like mountain goats, whenever MGM takes participants outside, they try to achieve something higher within themselves while also respecting and protecting the land they tread on. Movement relates to being present outside, off your phone, and also moving as a community. 

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

The positive effects of this type of program are evident. Morrisey has seen participants who came up through his program become ice climbers, environmental scientists, and AAC members, but most of all more confident explorers and adventurers in the outdoors and in life.  

“[the AAC] has always been super supportive and one of the reasons why we're able to start the foundation was because of the Live Your Dream grant, so I feel like the AAC has just done absolute wonders for a lot of kids in New York City without them actually realizing it,” says Morrisey. 

He is excited to expand and watch MGM grow. John Barnhardt, a filmmaker known for the Amazon Prime TV Show Born to Explore is joining MGM. He will be documenting their experiences on all seven continents for the next year. Morrisey is looking forward to having him join the team and help get the word out. 

PC: AAC Member Greg Morrisey

Just like mountain goats, we too can learn and adapt to our environment, mentally and physically. Movement in the outdoors has immense benefits. If you want to get involved or go on a trip with MGM visit their website here.

CONNECT: Climbing 10,000 Pitches in Eldo

Aubrey Runyon just climbed her 10,000th pitch in Eldorado Canyon—an area known for being sandbagged with sketchy gear—the bulk of which she did in the last 6 years. She’s had over 70 unique partners on the climb Rewritten alone, she knows ALL the gear beta to every climb…it’s honestly no wonder she’s frequently referred to as “The Mayor of Eldo.” In this episode, we sat down with Aubrey (who besides being a badass is also a volunteer for the AAC) to discuss completing her unusual goal, recovering from the trauma of witnessing a deadly climbing accident in her favorite place in the world, building queer community, and what actually happens when you take a whip on a can of pinto beans.



Resources

CLIMB: The 10th Mountain Division and the Evolution of Climbing after WWII

You’ve probably heard of the 10th Mountain Division, but did you know that climbing is just as or MORE important than skiing in shaping this division of expert mountaineering troops? In this episode, we sat down with Christian Beckwith, the creator of the 90 Pound Rucksack Podcast, and writer of a book by the same name, to talk about how climbers influenced the creation of the 10th Mountain Division, how climbing itself was critical to a battle in Italy that helped facilitate the end of the WWII, and the many gear developments that evolved from the 10th Mountain Division that shaped the climbing and mountaineering boom after the war. If you’re a history buff, you are going to especially love this episode. But even as someone who doesn’t have a particular connection to history, or especially military history, you can’t deny that tracing the impact of climbing on a world scale hits the spot for anyone who loves this sport.



Listen to more history of the 10th Mountain Division and their impact on climbing history on The Ninety Pound Rucksack podcast.


Resources



The Line—November 2022

The Line is the monthly newsletter of the American Alpine Journal.

FRESHIES

The editors of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ) are hard at work on the 2023 edition, and many new reports already are available online. Here’s a sampling of completed reports for next year’s book, from Nepal to New Hampshire to Greenland.

On the south ridge of Dolma Kang, just before the first bivouac. Photo by Tomeu Rubí.

Dolma Kang, Nepal Spanish climbers Pep Roig and Tomeu Rubí capped a visit to the Rolwaling Valley, west of the Khumbu, with a partial new route—and first alpine-style ascent—on the spectacular southeast face of Dolma Kang (6,332m). The ascent of their 1,400-meter route took two days, with part of another day to complete a safe descent.

Jon Nicolodi attempting the crux M10 pitch of The Resistance in Huntington Ravine, Mt. Washington, in February 2022. He finished the route a month later. Photo by Adam Bidwell.

The Resistance, Mt. Washington, New Hampshire In March, after attempts during two prior seasons, Jon Nicolodi redpointed the hardest route on the highest peak in the northeastern United States, freeing an old aid line on Pinnacle Buttress in Mt. Washington’s Huntington Ravine. The route includes three hard mixed pitches, with the crux roof (M10) spanning three body lengths, split by a crack that widens to offwidth near the lip.

Descending Peak 1,270m above Poulsen Fjord, with Umiak Peak in the background. Photo by Graham Tourell.

Poulsen Fjord, Greenland During July and August, a six-member team led by alpine guide Tim Blakemore (U.K./France), climbed in various locations along East Greenland’s rugged coast, based on the yacht Umiak. The highlight was their stay in Poulsen Fjord, where members of the team climbed four routes, likely all first ascents, including Umiak Peak, which rises nearly a mile above sea level at the head of the fjord.

The deadline for submissions to the 2023 AAJ is coming up fast. For more information or to send a report about your new route or mountain exploration, email us or visit this page.


PHOTO GALLERY: DROP THE MIC

Exactly a year ago, Noah McKelvin, Scott Turpin, and Phil Wortmann completed Drop the Mic (V 5.11- M8 R), a 1,400-foot route above Ouray, Colorado, near the popular short climbs along Camp Bird Mine Road. Efforts to establish the 10-pitch climb date back to 2018, with nine days of work in all. The result just might be the longest and most sustained mixed climb of this difficulty in the Lower 48. In his AAJ report, Turpin wrote, “We chose the difficult line at each turn, challenging ourselves to connect features the way we had envisioned from the ground. We bolted where necessary, placed lots of dubious gear, and punched it when there was no other option.” Special thanks to Jason Nelson (Visual Adventures) for sharing the great drone shot above; all other photos in this slide show are by the team.


Mini-Epic: The Bull River Prowler

Earl Lunceford climbed two long new routes up the north face of A Peak in Montana’s Cabinet Mountains last spring, the first of them solo. Alone on the summit without a rope, as he writes in his AAJ report, “I struggled to locate a safe path down…and opted to post-hole nine miles out to Highway 56, opposite from where I drove in. I emerged from the drainage of the North Fork of the Bull River at midnight and knocked on some doors to see if I could borrow a phone. A startled homeowner reported me to the police as a “prowler.” Soon afterward, a sheriff’s deputy responded and gave me a pleasant ride to the Lincoln County Sheriff’s Office in Libby, where my girlfriend graciously picked me up at 4 a.m.” The new route is called The Bull River Prowler (2,200’, AI4 M4).


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Forgotten Mountaineer: Author’s Note

The 2022 American Alpine Journal published a short historical article about Dr. Cora Johnstone Best, an American mountaineer who was active in the Canadian Rockies and other ranges during the 1920s and gave popular lectures about her climbs and travels. In October, about six months after the 2022 AAJ went to press, the author of this article, Cheryl Jacklin-Piraino, discovered troubling quotes attributed to Best in newspaper accounts of her lectures.

Jacklin-Piraino explains below:

During her lectures, Dr. Best apparently made various statements supporting eugenics, a movement that began in the 19th century and aimed to “improve” the human race through selective breeding, and she spoke of the "survival of the white race." She also made derogatory statements about people with impairments. I regret these significant remarks were not known to me before my article went to press, since they are integral to a full understanding of Best's character. Her racist and ableist statements, which appear to have waned later in her career, stand in contradiction to her position on the council of the Trail Riders of the Canadian Rockies, a group with an explicit anti-racist bylaw. Her apparently contradictory nature is also evident in her support of Jewish youth and Japanese alpinists at a time when both ethnicities faced discrimination, and in her support of Russian Dukhobor immigrants who were the target of assimilation efforts by the Canadian government. It is my hope that future research by myself and others will reveal the full implications of Dr. Best’s feminist and social activism juxtaposed against her racist views, and how her rhetoric may have impacted those inside and outside the climbing community. 


Colin Haley on Cerro Chaltén

One of the Cutting Edge podcast’s most popular guests, Colin Haley, returned to the show to chat about his solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Cerro Chaltén (Fitz Roy) in Patagonia. Don’t miss it!


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Partner-level members receive The American Alpine Journal book every year. Documenting mountain exploration and the year’s most significant ascents through first-person reports and photos, it’s an essential historical record and a feast of inspiration.

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Climbing can be a risky pursuit, but one worth the price of admission. Partner-level members and up receive $7,500 in rescue services and $5,000 in emergency medical expense coverage. Looking for deeper coverage? Sign up for the Leader level and receive $300k in rescue services.


Sign Up for AAC Emails

The Line is the newsletter of the American Alpine Journal (AAJ), emailed to more than 80,000 climbers each month. Find the archive of past editions here. Interested in supporting this online publication? Contact Billy Dixon for opportunities. Suggestions? Email us: [email protected].

Inviting Communities In

The AAC Twin Cities Chapter partners with Spanish speaking communities to bring people climbing.

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Grassroots: Unearthing the Future of Climbing

By: Sierra McGivney

As the leaves change, students flood classrooms, back to school for another semester. Students at El Colegio Highschool, a small charter school in South Minneapolis, always wondered why their teacher Steve Asencio was covered in bruises and cuts. 

When the school bell rang Asencio was at his local climbing gym, hanging out with friends while bouldering and top-roping. Each time, he'd come away from the climbing wall with bruises and scrapes—practically a requirement for climbers.

Asencio found climbing through the BIPOC events put on by the AAC Twin Cities Chapter in 2021. The space for new learners and community grown by Rodel Querubin, the Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair, allowed Asencio to immerse himself in climbing. Asencio even applied for the AAC-TC BIPOC Ice Climbing Scholarship in 2021 and was able to attend Michigan Ice Fest to hone his skills further. 

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

When Asencio saw an opportunity to bring his passion for climbing to the classroom he reached out to Querubin. Twice a year students at his school participate in an interim week in which the teachers design a three-hour-long class of their choice. 

Ascencio emailed Querubin: do you think that we could create some sort of class and partnership to teach students how to climb? Querubin didn’t hesitate, Yes. He didn’t even know if he could make this happen or where funding would come from, but Querubin is committed to keeping as many doors open as possible in his work, so he decided he would find a way. 

El Colegio is not your average high school. The school is a tuition-free charter school with a focus on community-building and social justice. The staff is fully bilingual and has been recognized locally and nationally as an innovative force in improving achievement for Latino students and other students of color. As Asencio talked to students about climbing he realized how inaccessible it was to them. Very few students had climbed before and if they had, they had only done so in their native countries. 

“I felt like I was that student. I grew up in Atlanta, I didn't climb until I came to Minnesota and was 26 or 27 years old,” says Asencio.  

A student from El Colegio high school, climbing at Vertical Endevours. PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Giddy and scared, the kids tied in at Vertical Endeavors. Shouts of encouragement filled the gym as the kids pushed one another to climb. Asencio would watch a kid get stuck on a route and walk by thirty minutes later to the same kid finishing up. 

“I think that, to me, was just super powerful as that can translate into life,” says Asencio. 

Being able to complete something new after being scared of what lies on the other side is a huge accomplishment. A lot of the students at El Colegio are originally from countries such as Ecuador, Mexico, El Salvador, Guatemala, and Honduras. A few kids had only been to school, work, and home. They didn’t have the opportunity to go anywhere outside of those three settings. The students got to be in a space that is completely new while also being fulfilling, rewarding, and challenging. 

“I was very impressed with [the students]. I think they kind of took on that challenge,” says Asencio.  

Asencio’s goal has always been to expose the students to climbing with the hopes that they will, in turn, expose their family, friends, and others. This is how they begin to create a Spanish-speaking space within the climbing community.  

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

News spread fast through the school that Mr. Asencio’s interim climbing class was cool. Asencio had kids running up to him exclaiming that they had to be in his class. The class has become one of the most popular and spots are limited. Asencio is always trying to see how he can get as many interested kids on the wall. In the second semester, Asencio had a few returning students who helped teach the new kids the ropes. 

“Most inspiring and touching to me was that two of the students who had participated during our first events in October of last year returned for this latest round and were able to teach the rest of their class how to belay instead of me—in Spanish,” says Querubin.


Luisana Mendez the founder of Huellas Latinas, a hiking club based in Minnesota oriented toward Spanish-speaking individuals, found climbing in the same way Asencio did, through the events that Querubin hosted. She approached Querubin about a partnership to take participants in the hiking club, climbing. Although Huellas Latinas is primarily a hiking club, being outdoors is what brings everyone together, no matter the activity.

Huellas Latinas gearing up to climb. PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

At the time Querubin didn’t have a framework or funding for an event. After the success of the climbing event at El Colegio highschool, Querubin reached back out to Luisana Mendez to restart the conversation about hosting an event alongside Huellas Latinas. 

“I feel like those types of communities are the exact spaces where we want to be expanding the reach of climbing and the possibility of it—folks who are already interested in the outdoors but maybe don’t see themselves in climbing or just aren’t aware of the resources to them,” says Querubin. “Any number of things that we take for granted as far as access to climbing, [we can address those obstacles.] I want to make sure that those communities see that those opportunities are available.”

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

They hosted two different events, one rope climbing, and one bouldering. Participants loved it. Everyone was enthusiastic about the opportunity to try something they wouldn't necessarily see themselves doing. 

If participants decided they enjoy climbing after the event, they could attend the weekly BIPOC climbing events put on by the AAC Twin Cities Chapter. 

“We’ve been seeing some of those folks join in on BIPOC events, so that was the beauty of that, not just having these one-off events but then the ability for them to join in on our more regularly scheduled events,” says Rodel.

Everyone loves a good party. Big events like Craggin’ Classics and Flash Foxy draw in all types of climbers, who get to socialize and celebrate climbing. The issue is, what happens to those climbers who got introduced to climbing at the big event? What support network is in place to allow them to continue climbing and form the community needed in order to continue their climbing career? Running smaller, more frequent events, like the AAC Twin Cities Chapter is able to do, allows a community to build organically and supports the folks who are pulled in by exciting one-off events.  

Working with Huellas Latinas and El Colegio has been part of a bigger push to partner with other groups and organizations to bring them into climbing. In 2020, the pandemic in conjunction with the murder of George Floyd made Querubin, his fellow members, and the leadership team at the Twin Cities Chapter reevaluate what they wanted their priorities to focus on. They took some time to focus on how best to address systemic racism, inequities, and the imbalance of access. Phase one: Create a space for BIPOC communities through gym partnerships and events. 

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

“When you take a step back there are very specific responsibilities and intentionality when you run BIPOC spaces. Or at least there should be. And so what that means is not just having these events, but also making some very specific and intentional invites to communities and relationship building,” says Querubin. 

Phase two was to invite communities to get involved and be represented in the climbing community. Part of the purpose of introducing climbing to groups that had already built a community, like students from El Colegio high school and participants of Huellas Latinas, was to ensure the individuals participating felt safe and welcomed through a partnership they already trusted. After the events, participants had the opportunity to advance in climbing if they were interested in doing so with the AAC Twin Cities Chapter. 

“I wanted to start up this program, which was to help communities so that we aren’t gatekeeping that knowledge, where we’re empowering their community and to then have leaders in their communities,” says Querubin.

PC: AAC Twin Cities DEI Initiatives Chapter Chair Rodel Querubin

Right now the AAC Twin Cities chapter is set to run around 80 BIPOC clinics and meetups this year, 2022. If you are in the area and find yourself looking for a sense of community, get connected on social media here or our website here

The Prescription—November 2022

The Ice Climbing Atlas Project

Avalanche Observations from Popular Ice Climbs in the Canadian Rockies

Our friends in the Canadian Rockies take avalanches seriously. The terrain is big, cold, and snowy. The Rockies are also a popular ice climbing venue that holds a vast trove of some of the best ice in the world. However, those who want to climb cascades, gullies, smears, and drips in this region must pay heed to the perils of avalanches. Fortunately, Avalanche Canada, a not-for-profit organization dedicated to public avalanche safety that issues daily avalanche forecasts throughout the winter and provides avalanche awareness and education programs, recently started the Ice Climbing Atlas Project.

Rogan’s Gully has a roadside location and moderate climbing, making it a popular outing. As shown, though, once in the gully it’s near impossible to get out of harm’s way should something come down. Photo: Avalanche Canada/Grant Statham

The Ice Climbing Atlas Project started through an ongoing collaboration between Avalanche Canada, their ambassador Sarah Hueniken, and Grant Statham, a visitor safety specialist for Banff National Park. Hueniken and Statham are among the most experienced ice climbers in the range and are also certified guides. The atlas is intended to provide an overview of historical avalanche observations from popular ice climbs in the Rockies. According to the website, this work in progress will be regularly updated as information on climbs gets collected.

The Ice Climbing Atlas Project provides an Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale (ATES) rating for eight very popular ice climbs. According to Parks Canada, the ATES categorizes avalanche terrain based on unchanging characteristics. By using the ATES, climbers will get a sense of the type of avalanche terrain threatening their proposed route and its approach.

The Ice Climbing Atlas merges graphics with actual route photos to illustrate avalanche hazards. Photo: Avalanche Canada/Grant Statham

Cascade Waterfall is close to the road, moderate in grade, and sits in the sun. It has also seen many unfortunate avalanches originating from terrain above it. Photo: Avalanche Canada/Grant Statham

Cascade Waterfall avalanche accidents from the ANAC archive: Report 1; Report 2

The atlas also provides other crucial information for each climbing route. This includes data on how often these routes get climbed; information on the frequency of avalanches; analyses regarding the time of year and frequency of climbing; presence of avalanche debris; graphical representation of the avalanche start zones and run-outs; and reports of actual avalanches/accidents.

As noted on the site: Avalanche observations are collected through surveys of local climbers conducted by Sarah Hueniken. Our hope is that by sharing historical data, climbers can better understand the avalanche hazard that exists on these popular climbs. We strongly encourage all ice climbers to always carry avalanche safety gear—transceiver, probe, and shovel.

The Ice Climbing Atlas Project points the way to the future. Hopefully, an organization in the United States will eventually create something along these same lines.


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FALL AND SPRING AVALANCHES IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES: THE EDITOR’S STORY

In the Rockies, winter is not the only season in which avalanches pose a climbing hazard. It can snow during any month of the year, so fall, spring, and even summer can be hazardous for climbers.

Avalanches in the Rockies can be huge and often follow the climber’s line of ascent. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/David Wilson

In September 1997, my climbing partner and I drove up to Canada with an eye on alpine routes. Conditions were typically mercurial—one day an alpine rock route would be dry, and the next morning it would be covered with verglas. On another day, a different route would be filled with blue ice, and on the next it would be flushed by an avalanche every 15 minutes, spawned on the slopes far above the climbing route. We always erred on the side of safety, waiting for days on end after storms before venturing onto a climb. Even approaches could be perilous.

The next spring we drove up and met the one and only Jeff Lowe, intent on doing a new route above the Icefields Parkway. Sure enough some storms rolled through, costing us several days. Lowe was on a tight schedule and departed while the remaining two of us decided to scope out a route on a big mountain that was fairly close to the road.

To get a better view, we pulled off the highway and skied across a lake and into the forest on the far side. There, below an open slope—read: avalanche path—we pulled out the binoculars to scope out the climb. The route we had in mind followed a large gully that cut across the face before joining a couloir leading to the crux rock band below the summit. The sky was clear blue, the temperatures were cold, and the air still. After ten minutes of observation, we turned our backs to ski down in search of a different perspective.

Rockies ice climbing is world class but comes with a host of big-mountain hazards. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Dwayne Reilander

Above we heard a faint crack and turned to watch as a puff of powder snow in the upper couloir wafted down. It grew larger and larger. It was a beautiful sight as the cloud billowed and slowly descended the gully. After a few moments we could hear a dull roar growing louder and louder. We turned to each other and wordlessly asked, “How big is this?” The cloud grew bigger and bigger and closer and closer. We began skiing faster and faster away from the face. I looked over my shoulder and saw to my horror that as the cloud struck the lower slopes it neither slowed nor dissipated.

At this point we were skiing as fast as we could. Behind us, we could sense the pressure change as the avalanche pushed the air in its path. I glanced over my shoulder again. The cloud engulfed us and we crouched in a dark, seething mass of crystals that pelted us with little bullets of ice. After several long moments the roaring subsided and light penetrated the darkness. We shook the snow off our jackets and stood laughing with relief at what had been a very close call.

The Rockies holds a vast range of elevations, exposure, rock quality, and climbing styles each with its own set of complexities. I have climbed in the Canadian Rockies on over a dozen occasions and I still feel like I have so much to learn. For a reasonably simple explanation of the Rockies climbing seasons with general seasonal avalanche information, see Will Gadd’s webpage on Rockies climbing seasons.


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The Sharp End: Impaled on Mt. Rainer

Mountaineering holds a host of hazards besides avalanches. Freezing cold, high winds, and falling rocks can plague any ascent, but what happens when a climber falls and gets skewered by his own ice axe? A climber named Aavron was on Mt. Rainier when he fell, pulling his climbing partner down a slippery slope with him. During the fall, he was impaled by his ice axe. Listen to this episode of the Sharp End Podcast to hear what happened and what Aavron learned from his accident.


The Prescription Newsletter is published monthly by the American Alpine Club.


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Loving Our People

Color the Wasatch Joins Climb United's Affiliate Support Network

“I solve problems for a living. Like math theorems. And climbing is a physical interpretation of that. You're solving these puzzles, but you get this body therapy in the meantime, and I really felt like it made me feel strong, right? The fears that you can overcome when climbing are kind of incredible. It's like a mind test on like seven different levels. So of course, with me being an overachiever, and very into puzzles, I just fell in love with it very quickly.”

-Priyam Patel, Founder of CTW

Throughout [Priyam's] career she has done a lot of advocacy for diversity in math and STEM, but she kept waiting for someone else to take up the helm and create an affinity space for climbers in Salt Lake. Priyam was thinking: “I might not be the best climber. I might not be a pro, I might not be super embedded and entrenched in the community. But if I don't do this, who's gonna do it?” Priyam realized, if she needed BIPOC community in climbing this bad, there were surely many other climbers out there who did too. There was no time to waste.

Continue reading below!

Loving Our People

Finding Home

Queer Climbing Collective Joins Climb United's Affiliate Support Network

Elli Jahangiri’s entrance into climbing was as seamless as it gets. Friends lent her shoes and other gear, got her free day passes, mentored her in climbing movement, and brought her climbing outdoors. While Elli had few barriers to accessing climbing, she couldn't help but notice the barriers faced by climbers all around her. She was the anomalee. She had a seamless experience, but that was not the experience for nearly everyone else around her—especially her fellow queer, POC, and BIPOC climbing friends. Her brain got to working. How could she change that?

It started as a lot of things do with millennials...Elli created a group chat called “Queer Climbing Collective Board Members” as a joke with her friends. It was just a dream though. Just a joke. Soon, she made a logo...because why not dream more? Then it felt too real not to.

The official affinity group Queer Climbing Collective(QCC) started with weekly meet-ups at Mesa Rim, a gym in San Diego. Soon, queer climbers in other states latched on to the idea and wanted to start their own chapters in other parts of the country.

Continue reading below!

Finding Home

PROTECT: Vote the Crag this November

We’re sending it to the polls this midterm election….are you? In this mini-episode of the podcast, we sat down with the AAC’s Policy Director to discuss voting in the midterms this November, including important issues for climbers to consider, like public lands bills, climate change legislation, and judicial appointees. We keep it short and sweet since we know it can be overwhelming. So sit tight for the quick hits!


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The Prescription — October 2022

The following report will appear in the upcoming edition of Accidents in North American Climbing. The 2022 books are being prepared for shipment and will start going into the mail next week.

Stranded | Exposure and Weather

Yosemite National Park, Half Dome

Nick and Kate being hoisted to the summit of Half Dome after the storm in mid-October of 2021. Big Sandy and Thank God ledges are clearly outlined below by the plastering of fresh snow. Photo: Jack Cramer

In the evening of October 17, two climbers, Kate (28) and Nick (26), started up the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome (23 pitches, 5.9 C2) after completing The Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, 5.9 C2) earlier in the same day. Nick and Kate were both experienced climbers attempting a sub-24-hour link-up of the two walls. They failed to summit Half Dome when they were caught in a winter storm, five pitches from the top. 

After finishing The Nose, Kate and Nick ate lunch and started up the approach to Half Dome. The weather forecasted a 90 percent chance of precipitation around 1:30 a.m. Despite that, neither talked about rescheduling.

Kate and Nick started climbing the Northwest Face around 6 p.m. They made good progress, but around midnight they were engulfed in a winter-like storm. At this point, Nick and Kate were simul-climbing through 5.9 and 5.10 terrain, with snow and ice accumulating on ledges and in cracks. Around 12:30 a.m., they arrived at Big Sandy Ledge, atop pitch 18.

Nick and Kate are visible on a snow-covered Big Sandy Ledge in lower right. The icy Zig-Zag pitches are directly above this ledge. Photo: Jack Cramer

Nick began leading the first pitch of the “Zig-Zags” (pitch 19) with increasing difficulty. He was scraping ice out of the cracks and, at one point, slipped off a large foot ledge and fell back onto his daisy chain. Their gear was freezing solid, and Kate’s hands were losing their ability to function.  

Nick still wanted to try and summit, but Kate did not think safely continuing was possible. At this point, they had not sustained any injuries, but the pitches ahead included Thank God Ledge and multiple slab pitches, none of which is inconsequential, especially if covered with ice and snow. They called 911 at 1:50 a.m. and were told to call back at 6 a.m. In a few hours the snow stopped falling, the wind died down, and the temperature dropped. At first light, the conditions on the route were even icier. At 6 a.m., they called search and rescue back and confirmed they needed assistance.

Shortly afterward, Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) gathered for a technical rescue on Half Dome. The plan was to fly rescuers, ropes, and all necessary equipment to the summit with a helicopter and lower one member of YOSAR to Nick and Kate and then haul them up to the summit. Due to the cold conditions, the helicopter got delayed because the rotors needed to de-ice.

Nick and Kate huddling for warmth on snow-covered Big Sandy Ledge. Photo: Jack Cramer

Later that morning, conditions allowed the helicopter to fly. A rescuer was lowered to Nick and Kate, carrying jackets and warm beverages. Once the rescuer attached to Kate and Nick, two teams on top raised the climbers to the summit. Miraculously, neither Kate nor Nick sustained any cold-related injuries.

ANALYSIS

Heed the forecast. Severe storms can roll through Yosemite any month of the year, but early spring and late fall often catch climbers unaware. In this case, the team saw a forecast for the Valley floor (4,000 feet elevation) with precipitation starting at 1:30 a.m., and they were surprised when the storm started two hours earlier. The conditions on Half Dome (8,846 feet) were unsurprisingly much more intense and severe. 

Nick and Kate on the summit of Half Dome. Photographer Jack Cramer reported that the pair recovered and successfully completed The Nose/Half Dome link-up in spring 2022. Photo: Jack Cramer

Don’t allow the goal to blind your judgment. The link-up of Half Dome and El Capitan in under 24 hours is an admirable goal for any Valley climber. After a season of training and a plan set in motion, it can be tough to decide to bail, especially given that the climbers had completed El Capitan and were “on track” for a sub-24-hour time. They ignored a known weather risk to complete their goal. 

Communicate openly with your partner. Many accidents and rescues can be avoided with better communication. Any reservations or concerns should be immediately communicated. Especially with disappointment on the line, it can be challenging to start the conversation. Partners, particularly new partners, should regularly check in and practice their communication like other climbing skills. Sure, one partner might be disappointed at first, but if it means not having to spend the night in a winter storm or worse, it might be worth it.

Although they discussed the weather, there was no conversation about a worst-case scenario. The climbers didn’t discuss the possibility of not making it to the top nor what the upper pitches would be like in a storm. The final pitch of the Regular Northwest Face is slab climbing with limited opportunities to aid. There should always be a conversation about how to retreat if there is no real possibility of going up.

Pack the proper layers. If you know there is a chance of precipitation, you should pack suitable layers. Kate and Nick both had warm gloves (Kate was not initially wearing them), base layers, and hardshell jackets. However, neither had hardshell pants, and they felt like that was a major mistake. Both Kate and Nick have experience with ice/mixed climbing in winter conditions and thought they could have possibly self-rescued the following morning with the appropriate layers.

A National Park Service rescue helicopter departs the sunny Valley floor on the way to the snowy and frozen summit of Half Dome. Photo: Jack Cramer

Know when to call for a rescue (and have the ability to communicate). It’s tough to know when the right time is. Ultimately, Kate decided they should call for help when she felt like she could not safely use her hands. The need for a rescue became more apparent when they were rappelling back down to Big Sandy after attempting the Zig-Zags. The ropes were extremely icy, making the rappel dangerous. They rappelled with Grigris and used slings as “third-hand” backup prusiks, and did not feel it was safe to try and retreat further. There were legitimate concerns that if they attempted to continue upward, Kate and/or Nick could have gotten injured; this would have made the situation much worse and the rescue more complex.

They only carried one cell phone with them, and fortunately they were able to make a phone call to 911. To communicate with YOSAR, they kept the phone off when not in use and kept the phone next to their bodies to keep it warm and preserve the battery. (Source: Yosemite National Park Climbing Rangers.)

This report is adapted from a story at Yosemite Climbing Information, published by Yosemite rangers. 


SEASONAL HAZARDS: THE EDITOR’S STORY

The shoulder-season months of March/April and October/November can be perilous in Yosemite. After a long winter spent indoors, clear and sunny weather in early spring can lure climbers onto the walls. In fall, peak fitness honed over summer, combined with seemingly endless weeks of perfect weather, can tempt climbers to squeeze in one last end-of-the-season send.  

As the old saying goes, “Good judgment comes from bad experience.” Take it from Pete Takeda, editor of ANAC:

“I spent seven years living in Yosemite. Over that period, I climbed many big walls and suffered more than a few bad-weather epics. One instance stands out. 

“I was coming off a long winter and was itching to get on a wall. So in early April, my partner and I launched up an El Cap route called Lost World, foolishly ignoring a storm forecast. There was no internet back then, but the San Francisco Chronicle, delivered to the Valley on a daily basis, had a generally solid forecast printed in plain black and white on the front page. After two days of climbing, a storm clobbered us above the point of no return, and we spent the next three days soaked to the bone. My shelter was a thin sleeping bag and a leaky bivy sack. On day one of the storm, we foolishly declined an NPS rescue.

On day two I became concerned about hypothermia and asked my partner, ‘Are we going to make it?’ He was a veteran survivor of epics on walls and big mountains. His reply was frightening. ‘How the f*** should I know?’ 

“Day three dawned with sleet, but by noon the sun had peeked out. We jumped into action, climbing for our lives, and barely summited during a few hours of good weather. I’d lost ten pounds and acquired a case of trench foot. Had we had another day of bad weather I might not be sharing this tale.”


FROM THE ACCIDENTS VAULT: HALF DOME STORIES

These three rescues involved legendary climbers caught in storms on Half Dome:

In 1968, Warren Harding and Galen Rowell got caught in a storm on a new route.

On 27 October Warren Harding (44) and Galen Rowell (28) began an ascent on the unclimbed South Face of Half Dome. It was late in the year, but the weather looked good for the future and they both had equipment in the experimental stages, namely a single suspension bivouac hammock and shelter which would feasibly protect them from the weather in case a storm did break….

In 1986, Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett, and John Middendorf were trapped by an epic storm on the South Face.

(The trio) had been climbing the South Face route on Half Dome since March 4… McDevitt (a Search and Rescue team member) reported by radio that he had attempted to contact the climbers with a loudspeaker and that they had yelled that they needed to be rescued… McDevitt reported blizzard conditions in Little Yosemite Valley with heavy snowfall and strong winds…. 

Scenes from the 1986 South Face epic. Photos: John Middendorf Collection. Read Middendorf’s harrowing personal account here.

In 1975, budding young Stonemasters Dave Diegelman and Bill Price were rescued from the Regular North Face.

Dave Diegelman (17) and Bill Brice (17) had been climbing for the full day of August 19, 1975, on Half Dome’s Regular North (sic) Face, VI 5.8, A3. It started to rain moderately hard at 3 p.m. The climbers continued on for one more hour to reach the bivouac ledge (13th pitch). The rain continued all night and was accompanied by freezing temperatures…. 


EDUCATE: Trends in Climbing Accidents, with Pete Takeda

In this episode, we sat down with Pete to talk about the process of selecting the stories and analysis for the "Accidents" publication each year, trends in climbing accidents that Pete has noticed through his work—including many that the climbing world has been ignoring for far too long—and the bravery of submitting a report in a world that loves to critique.


EDUCATE: Inside the Life of Search and Rescue Teams

In this episode of the podcast, we talk to Grant Kleeves, a volunteer with Ouray Mountain Rescue, one of the winning SAR teams for last year’s Rocky Talkie SAR Award. We talk to Grant about some of the operational and logistical challenges that SAR teams face, and he walks us through the decision making process for a particular rescue Ouray Mountain Rescue did in 2021. You might note that we don’t describe what caused the accident, or analyze the accident either. And this is on purpose. Most of the time, SAR teams get a call for services without much context, and they must make decisions based on what they know. The story that Grant shares with us reflects that tricky reality.


The Prescription Newsletter is published monthly by the American Alpine Club.