Joint Statement on Climbing Route Naming

The American Alpine Club, Appalachian Mountain Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Mazamas, and The Mountaineers join with those speaking out and taking action against racist, sexist, and otherwise derogatory route names, and we welcome the conversation about how best to move forward as a community.

Historically in the U.S. climbing community, the opportunity and privilege of naming a route has been given to the first ascensionist. Naming a route is an earned honor, responsibility, and form of artistic expression. When done well, a route's name tells a story. It often cleverly captures the experience of establishing or climbing the route or a unique characteristic of the formation. At worst, a route name inscribes onto the rock an individual's prejudice, insecurity, and violence. These names deface the special places where we climb. Names like "N*****s Wall," "Case of the F*gs," and "Slant Eyes" signal that not all people are welcome, creating a hostile environment that we should not accept.

Recent movements across our nation, including Black Lives Matter, SafeOutside, and Me Too, have been a catalyst for many individuals and organizations to recognize the institutionalized and systemic oppression built into the foundation of our society.

Though not a new problem, we are grateful to Erynne Gilpin, Ashleigh Thompson, and Melissa Utomo, along with Brown Girls Climb, Melanin Base Camp, and Natives Outdoors, for bringing focus back to this problematic practice. As individuals and as a community, we must recognize that words matter. The climbing community as a whole is accountable for the language we use to identify and describe the places where we climb. We must own the toxicity in the practice of naming routes. It’s time for change.

As signers, our 5 organizations represent 150,000 members nationwide. We commit ourselves to building a more respectful community. That includes working collaboratively with climbers across the country to change names of existing routes, providing anti-racism and anti-harassment training for our members and volunteer leaders, and auditing our own publications and websites to determine a process for expunging offensive route names. These changes represent only a starting point, but they are a necessary first step toward making the climbing community more inclusive and our crags and mountains welcoming to us all.

In unity,

American Alpine Club

Appalachian Mountain Club

Colorado Mountain Club

Mazamas

The Mountaineers

AAC Announces Next CEO—Mitsu Iwasaki

Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) Board of Directors announced today that it has named Mitsu Iwasaki as the organization’s next Chief Executive Officer, effective August 3. Iwasaki is currently the Executive Director of the Mazamas in Portland, Oregon.

Prior to the Mazamas, he led the rebuilding of the Northwest Outward Bound School where he was the executive director for more than five years. He has also held senior roles at Outward Bound and Big City Mountaineers. “I first joined the AAC as a member in 1997 and am honored to step in as the next leader,” said Iwasaki. “The AAC has broad and deep influence both within and outside the climbing community. The AAC is at an exciting and important juncture with an opportunity to build on the strong foundation put into place under the leadership of Phil Powers.” 

AAC Board of Directors President Kevin V. Duncan said, “We’re thrilled to welcome Mitsu as our next CEO. Mitsu brings a strong track record of guiding organizations through periods of growth and transformation. Climbing is evolving rapidly and the AAC is leaning in. As more people are introduced to climbing through gyms and outdoor adventure films, our mission is to both share and support our passion for climbing, as well as respect the places we climb. We are more attuned to the responsibility we share to protect the public lands on which we recreate and to ensure that climbers are equipped with the knowledge and skills to keep themselves safe. We are confident that Mitsu is the best person to lead us into this new future.” 

Current AAC CEO Phil Powers announced his resignation in October 2019, after fifteen years at the helm of the organization. “On behalf of the Board of Directors,” said Duncan, “I wish to thank Phil for his outstanding leadership. His contributions to the club have been invaluable, driving significant growth and diversification of membership, and setting the stage for continued expansion and relevance.”

Iwasaki was selected after an extensive national search led by the Koya Leadership Partners. “At every step of the way, we challenged ourselves to be inclusive of input from our broad stakeholder community,“ said immediate past President Deanne Buck and search committee chair. “We were looking for that unique individual who brought a depth of experience running organizations with significant growth, the ability to connect with the national politician and the first time climber, a track record of inspiring, building, and leading a team of dedicated professionals, and who has a deep and unabiding love and passion for climbing and the mountains. Mitsu brings all of those attributes and more.” 

Iwasaki will be located in Golden. He is a partner at the Outdoor Policy Outfit and serves on the boards of Big City Mountaineers, Oregon Humanities, and the Oregon State Parks Foundation. 

CONTACT:

Shane Johnson, Marketing and Membership Director

[email protected]

The AAC Stands in Solidarity

Black lives matter—throughout the country and at the crag. The American Alpine Club stands in solidarity with those protesting systemic racism on the frontlines and from home. As climbers and as humans, we believe that racism has no place in our craft or our country.

The American Alpine Club is a national community of boulderers and big wallers, backcountry skiers and gym climbers, weekend warriors and armchair mountaineers. Across distance, age and gender, race and religion, political party and profession, we are united by a shared passion for climbing and a commitment to protecting the places where we climb.

What joins us is greater than what divides us. And, in this moment, we collectively grieve the killing of George Floyd and condemn the systemic racism that jeopardizes life and opportunity for black and brown people.   

The American Alpine Club stands with the countless victims of racism—George Floyd, Ahmaud Arbery, Breonna Taylor, and Christian Cooper are only recent examples. We stand with those whose lives were callously stolen and with those who have survived the odds. We stand with those who speak up for justice: in everyday life, at protests, in the halls of government, at the crag, and in the voting booth.

United we climb and united we stand.

THE NEXT PITCH: PRACTICAL BETA ON CLIMBING IN THE COVID ERA

Climbers across the country have set personal needs aside, cleared the crag out of concern for their community, and taken precautions to help "flatten the curve."

Thank you.

With the easing of shelter-in-place policies across the country, restrictions on access to crags are beginning to change. Deciding whether it’s appropriate to head back out to your local crag will be an important and localized decision. To help, we want to offer the following Guiding Principles on when and how to re-rack for the next pitch.

Guiding Principles:

• Be respectful of rural gateway communities, and avoid traveling to these areas.

• Follow federal, state, county, and city health emergency guidelines and recommendations.

• Recreate close to home, don't travel to climb.

• Take cues from your local land managers and climbing organizations.

• Keep your outdoor objectives conservative. Climbing accidents will place further stress on first responders, search and rescue teams, and hospital staff.

• Be kind, respectful, and patient with one another during this time. We all want to feel safe spending time outside; let's work together to create an environment that allows this.

Should I go climbing?

If you feel confident that you can safely climb in your area, keep the following questions in mind before heading to the crag.

Do I feel sick or have reason to believe I've recently been exposed to COVID-19?

• Do not go climbing if you are feeling sick!

• You may be a carrier of COVID-19 without experiencing symptoms—be sure to make decisions based on the most vulnerable members of our community.

Who should I climb with?

• Climb with people from your own home. If you can't do this, consider climbing with just one partner.

Where should I climb?

• Individual counties may adopt more protective standards than others—check local regulations before deciding where to travel.

• Comply with all local climbing organization and land management guidelines.

• Restrict your travel and climb close to home. Avoid going to vulnerable rural or gateway communities.

What should I do if I choose a crag close to home, and when I arrive, it's packed with people?

• Have a plan B, or even plan C. If you get to the crag, and it's too crowded to maintain social distancing guidelines, head to another spot.

• Consider the conditions of your approach—is it vulnerable to erosion or damage if you have to leave the trail to maintain six feet of distance?

What can I do when I get to the crag to protect myself, my partner, and others?

• Keep your outdoor objectives conservative.

• Practice frequent hand sanitation before, during, and after a session.

• Treat the rock and gear as you would surfaces in town. 

• Wear a mask when near others.

• Avoid putting climbing gear in your mouth—your rope as you pull slack to clip, for example.

How else can I help?

• Not everyone will be able to return to climbing at the same time. If you are lucky enough to have the opportunity to safely climb in your area, be considerate of those who can't.

• Continue to practice Leave No Trace principles.

• If you’re financially able to, support your local climbing organization.

Thank you for continuing to lead with responsible decision-making in your local climbing community.

A MESSAGE FROM AAC CEO PHIL POWERS

To the American Alpine Club Community,

Our world has been radically impacted by COVID-19. And, this week, it hit home for us in Golden. 

Yesterday, we placed nearly a quarter of our valued employees on furlough. The senior leadership team and I were brought to this decision after thorough and thoughtful forecasting and budget cuts.

With our operations and revenues limited for an unknown period, we have chosen a path which will see the AAC through the next months to a position of continued strength. Included in this plan is the furlough of several of our full-time team members. These employees will continue to receive full medical benefits for the duration of the furlough. In addition to these steps, my senior leadership team and I have taken temporary salary reductions, and we have suspended matching contributions to 403(b) retirement plans for all staff.  

I do not take these decisions lightly. Caring for our team is paramount. Climbing is a driving force in my life; I know it is for many of you. The AAC’s mission and goals are deeply fulfilling, but it is the people I work with—including those we will miss over these next weeks— who make our work so satisfying. 

Over the last six weeks, we've navigated a fraught and changing landscape with the priority of furthering our mission, protecting our people, and supporting our community. In early March, we closed our Golden offices and asked our team to work safely from home. With the disease spreading across the nation, we pivoted our Annual Benefit Dinner to a virtual event, and our community united together for an evening of reflection and celebration. In the last month, we've continued to foster community within climbing through our new Give a Belay, Get a Belay initiative and Clubhouse Live series. 

During this period of change, AAC staff members have also called hundreds of members, volunteers, and donors to check in and let you know that we care. Not surprisingly, you have responded in kind, rallying in support of each other and our Club, reminding us that this community is our greatest strength.

Thank you.

The hard choices we have made this week will allow the AAC to weather a difficult time while maintaining our core operations, and our ability to deliver on our promise to all members.

At its core, the American Alpine Club is strong. The mission and values that bind our 25,000 members across generations and backgrounds—and that tie us to the mountains—are as compelling and urgent as ever. The challenges we face are significant. Our efforts—and success—never more important.

I want to share a deep thank you from staff, the board, and dedicated volunteers for the support that you continue to offer to us and to each other. I know you’ll agree that in climbing and the Club we share something sustaining. In difficult times, I know I am thankful for what I’ve learned in the mountains.

Be prudent, be thoughtful and keep yourselves on a path to feeling good in the vertical world when that time comes.

I am honored to share this Club with you.

Sincerely yours,

Phil Powers