Read AAC's policy committee member Peter Metcalf's opinion piece in the Salt Lake Tribune.
"Ours is not a story of moneyed elites demanding rural oppression. It is the opposite. It is all of us coming together to protect access, enjoy, and profit off our shared lands and their natural features and resources. This is Utah’s story."
The Land and Water Conservation Fund (LWCF) is one of our nation’s most successful conservation tools. Created in 1965 from offshore oil and gas royalties, LWCF authorizes $900 million per year for the acquisition of land and water to protect natural treasures, with an emphasis on recreation. LWCF has supported 42,000+ projects to develop parks and outdoor recreation projects in all 50 states.
Without timely action from Congress, this popular, bipartisan program will expire September 30th, 2018. If LWCF is not reauthorized, city urban areas, small local communities, states and national parks could potentially lose many millions of dollars—including those with premier climbing areas.
Please join us in asking members of Congress to support either a stand-alone bill, or an amendment to the FY 2019 Interior appropriations bill, that permanently reauthorizes the Land and Water Conservation Fund before it expires on September 30, 2018.
According to research by Access Fund, LWCF has been used to purchase or improve more than a dozen climbing areas, including:
AAC member Justin Fricke climbs in Chimney Rock State Park, NC. Photo: Adam Fricke
Wilson Peak & Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park, CO
Seneca Rocks, WV
Bozeman Pass, MT
Castle Crags, CA
Palisades Park, AL
Stone Mountain State Park, Hanging Rock State Park, Pilot Mountain State Park, Chimney Rock State Park & Crowders Mountain State Park, NC
Cumberland Trail State Park, TN
Hueco Tanks State Park, TX
Custer State Park, SD
New River Gorge, WV
Many more... Use this tool to find your home crag!
"Stone Mountain is known as a premier slab climbing destination. Long run outs on off-vertical terrain characterize the climbing on this beautiful granite dome. Winter days at Stone can lead to climbing in a t-shirt with snow on the ground. Stone is home to many NC climber's first trad leads, such as the 5.5 Great Arch route which splits the South face and climbs a huge right-facing dihedral for 3 pitches to the top of the cliff." -AAC member Brian Payst (photo).
Some of the most popular climbing areas in NC have benefitted from the Land and Water Conservation Fund. Pilot Mountain, Stone Mountain, Chimney Rock and Crowder’s Mountain State Parks all have seen investments from this important fund. Pilot Mountain was one of the first parks in the state to receive LWCF funding, just two years after the fund was created in 1965 and Stone Mountain benefitted just two years later. LWCF funds have supported important acquisitions and expansions at Chimney Rock and Crowder’s Mountain. All of these are popular destinations for climbers.
As climbers, it’s easy to just grab the pack or pad and head for the day’s objective, but that route you’re on or the boulder problem you and your friends are sessioning was touched by the LWCF. We need to rally support for this important program and do everything we can to make sure it is permanently and fully funded. NC climbers have already reaped the rewards of the visionaries who established the LWCF and we’re set to see further gains in the future, but we won’t be able to do it unless it is reauthorized. Many thanks go to NC Senator Richard Burr, who recognizes the value the LWCF has brought to his state and is a leading champion for it in the Senate. However, Senator Burr can’t do this alone and we need your help. If you’ve climbed in NC or just hope to one day, now is the time to get behind the LWCF.
– AAC member Brian Payst, President of the Carolina Climbers Coalition
"Rumbling Bald at Chimney Rock State Park is home to over 400 routes and close to 1,000 boulder problems and is a regional destination in the Fall, Winter and Spring. The Bald also hosts the Carolina Climbers' Coalition's annual Rumble bouldering competition, which draws hundreds of climbers in January of each year. Technical face climbing, crack routes, high quality rock and an amazing diversity of boulder problems draw thousands of climbers in the prime seasons." -AAC member Brian Payst (photo).
[The LWCF-funded crag] Palisades Park, Alabama is the first place I tied into a rope, the first place I learned how to build anchors... the first place I took a lead fall, the first place I learned how to drill top-rope anchors, and the first place I learned to give back to the climbing community by participating in a trail day.
Located about 40 minutes from downtown Birmingham, the park sports dozens of high quality routes throughout the grades.
– AAC member Bob Farley
Photo: Christopher Neal
Like many climbing areas throughout the world, the boulders and cliffs at Rumbling Bald are simply conduits for connection. When I started climbing there in 2010 it was almost always with a group of friends that inevitably grew throughout the day as we met new people. Exploring the thick forest, sprinkled with granite boulders and capped by sheer granite cliffs, cultivated timeless bonds in all of us with people, place, and community. I’m not sure those same bonds would have been possible without that forest and the protection provided to it by the LWCF.
– AAC member Azissa Singh
The rising popularity of climbing and the increasing demand on climbing areas necessitates addressing human waste issues. Rumney receives thousands of visitors every year and improper human waste disposal creates a significant negative impact on the environment and on the user experience. As president of the Rumney Climbers Association (RCA), Rose Kenny sought to find a long-term waste management strategy to:
Improve sanitary conditions
Reduce the impact of human waste on the climbing and hiking experience
Educate users about human impacts on backcountry areas.
Thus, the RCA’s Clean Waste Program was born. In collaboration with the White Mountain National Forest and supported by the AAC’s Cornerstone Conservation Grant, RCA board members and forest service staff held multiple coffee events in the parking area to talk with climbers about human impacts. They gave away 2200 waste kits (Wag Bags) and engaged hundreds of climbers, including French-speaking Quebecois. This program was the first of its kind in the White Mountains, and at the end of 2015 it was deemed “highly effective” by the district ranger.
“Dispensing 2,200 Wag Bags at the most popular sport climbing crag in the north east was a critical step in helping to address personal outdoor responsibility for climbers,” said Rose Kenny. “On behalf of my local community, thank you AAC! The Cornerstone grant significantly reduced instances of human waste at the cliff and made a positive impact on my local climbing area.”
Thanks to the RCA for all their hard work. And remember: fully bury your human waste at least six inches under the surface OR walk down to the parking lot bathrooms OR pack it ALL out by using a Clean Waste kit. Either way, leave no trace!
Graffiti has always been a big problem in the South, and although most people would love to see it disappear, we’ve come to accept it as part of the landscape. The SCC attempted graffiti removal efforts over a decade ago, to no avail. Attempts at chemical removers, scrubbing and lots of elbow grease proved no match for the extensive graffiti littering our natural areas. The closest we ever came to ridding our landscape of these eyesores was using a natural paint to cover the graffiti and attempt to blend the paint colors into the rock. This method worked great, but was very time consuming and not logical for a large scale removal effort.
There are a few climbing areas in the Southeast that have essentially been abandoned by climbers because of the trash and graffiti. In 2015, the SCC decided it was time to start looking into graffiti removal options. There had to be something out there that would work! After extensive research, communication with other local climbing organizations and the Access Fund Conservation Team, we found a few products that seemed hopeful. We found a product, Elephant Snot, which seemed to be the best bet for our porous sandstone, so we decided to give it a try.
After ordering a test batch, we started testing the product at different areas. We set out with the elephant snot, a weed sprayer, gloves and brushes to conduct our first test graffiti removal. After a few tests, we found that some graffiti just melted away in seconds, with no need to brush, but others required a lot of time and scrubbing. We figured many factors could affect this: color of the paint, thickness of the paint, age of the graffiti, and porousness of the rock. We tested at various sites and had fantastic results at all of them! Most, if not all, of the graffiti was removed, leaving little or no evidence behind!
The process is simple and requires one key factor: PATIENCE. After some trial and error, here is the process we find works best for all areas:
Paint the Elephant Snot over the graffiti with a paint brush. Don’t be stingy with the Snot, make sure graffiti is fully covered in a thick coat.
Let it Sit. We found that letting it sit for at least 20 minutes before attempting to wash it off is adequate in most situations, but 30 minutes-1 hour proved best
Brush. While it’s resting, brush, brush, brush. Use soft bristle brushes (like the ones you would use to wash your car tires) to scrub and scrub and scrub. Use a little spray of water to ignite the bubbly effect of the Elephant Snot and let it do its job. I would recommend scrubbing at least 5-6 different times during the half hour-1 hour waiting period.
Rinse. A pressure washer is the best for rinsing. But, if you don’t have access to a pressure washer or can’t get it to the graffiti, use the highest pressure weed sprayers you can find. If using a weed sprayer, spray slowly and close to the rock. *If using a pressure washer make sure the pressure isn’t too high so it doesn’t break the rock. Be extra cautious around holds on routes.*
The graffiti removal efforts that were made possible by the support of the Cornerstone Conservation Grant. The grant has had a huge impact on our ability to bring natural areas back to their original state while improving relationships with land owners and educating the community. This project had a reach farther than we could have ever imagined. We look forward to continued efforts in preserving climbing areas for generations to come.
If you have any questions about graffiti removal, please reach out to Cody Roney of the Southeastern Climbers Coalition at: [email protected]
Allied Climbers of San Diego, California - $3,348
Mission Trails Regional Park
In recent years the spur trail from the main climber’s loop trail up to the Standard Deviation area has become badly eroded. More and more hikers and climbers are using this area and trails. Funds will be used for trail improvements that will prevent erosion, restore the habitat, allow better access, and prevent injuries due to loose rocks and ground.
Boulder Climbing Community, Colorado - $2,000
Scarface Wall, Indian Creek, UT
This AAC Cornerstone Grant will help fund two weeks of work on the Scarface Wall approach trail by the Front Range Climbing Stewards. The project will be a continuation of work started at the Scarface Wall in the spring of 2018. The trail crew will be assisted by students from Montrose High School and from the High Mountain Institute, and the crew will be supporting the AAC’s Moab Craggin’ Classic event on the weekend of October 27, 2018.
Buffalo Climbing Coalition, NY - $1,940
Niagara Glen
Niagara Glen is popular among hikers and climbers around Lake Erie and Lake Ontario. Because of the popularity, Niagara Glen has accumulated a significant amount of waste and graffiti that can be found on and off named boulders. Funds will be used to purchase equipment needed for clean-up and graffiti removal, in partnership with Niagara Parks Commission and Ontario Access Coalition.
Carolina Climbers Coalition, North and South Carolina - $4,500
Table Rock State Park
In the fall of 2016, Table Rock State Park and much of the Southeast was plagued by wildfires. The destruction caused soil instability which has led to sever erosion in places along the climbers’ approach trail. Funds will be used to restore and fortify parts of the climbers’ trail to Table Rock.
Washington’s National Park Fund, WA - $4,000
North Cascades National Park/Student Conservation Association
A Cornerstone grant will support a Student Conservation Association (SCA) intern to perform wilderness climbing patrols in North Cascades National Park. The intern will assist visitors with trip planning, safety information, route information and a wide range of stewardship topics. The patrols will help visitors be better stewards of park resources and increase visitor enjoyment of those resources.
AAC Cornerstone Conservation Grant Selection Committee:
· Rebecca Schild, Committee Chair
· Aram Attarian
· Audrey Borisov
· Ben Doyle
· Eddie Espinosa
· Elisabeth Bowers
· Jay Parks
· Joe Sambataro
· Matt Hepp
Stephen Gosling photo.
Climbers with the American Alpine Club, Access Fund and partner organizations just completed an impressive third ascent of Capitol Hill. On May 10th, an elite team of professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and grassroots partners charged the Hill to advocate for outdoor recreation and improved climbing management, with a specific focus on the Antiquities Act, the Land Water Conservation Fund and the Recreation Not Red-Tape Act.
Climb the Hill meetings helped move the needle on several policy issues and inspired congressional office to take action. Learn more about what we accomplished in the recap!
Some of the climbing representatives display their power after a successful day on Capitol Hill. From left to right are Sasha DiGiulian, Caroline Gleich, Libby Sauter, Quinn Brett and Katie Boue. Photo: Derek Franz.
We're teaming up with Access Fund to tackle our next challenging ascent: Washington, DC’s Capitol Hill. On May 9-11th, we'll kick off the annual effort by meeting with law and policy makers and to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation, and improved climbing management— and we'll bring an elite team of professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and grassroots partners to help.
Together, we'll advocate for balanced land management policy, with a focus on the Land Water Conservation Fund and Antiquities Act. Both organizations plan to pursue legislative and administrative efforts to increase access to public lands, defend environmental protections and pursue balanced energy policies on public lands.
To learn more, check out the Climb the Hill website. Stay tuned for more info on how you can get involved!
April 13, 2018, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) and Access Fund— two of our country’s foremost climbing advocacy non-profit organizations—are teaming up for a challenging ascent: Washington, DC’s Capitol Hill. The climbing advocacy organizations will return to Capitol Hill May 9 – 11 for their annual Climb the Hill campaign, meeting with law and policy makers and to advocate for public lands, outdoor recreation, and improved climbing management—and they’re bringing an elite team of professional climbers, outdoor industry leaders, and grassroots partners to help.
Access Fund estimates that nearly 60 percent of all rock climbing areas in the US are located on federal public land. Together, The American Alpine Club and Access Fund will advocate for balanced land management policy, with a focus on the Land Water Conservation Fund and Antiquities Act. The organizations plan to pursue legislative and administrative efforts to increase access to public lands, defend environmental protections and pursue balanced energy policies on public lands.
The two organizations are tapping a wide delegation of renowned professional climbers, including Sasha DiGiulian, Alex Honnold, Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, and Margo Hayes among others. They will be joined by prominent outdoor industry executives from Patagonia, Adidas, The North Face, Patagonia, CLIF, and REI. Non-profit partners include Outdoor Alliance (OA), Latino Outdoors, Brothers of Climbing, Brown Girls Climb, American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and the Outdoor Industry Association (OIA).
“Climb the Hill is an incredible opportunity to bring the climbing community together and ensure we have a seat at the decision-making table. It’s a privilege to lead this project with our partners at Access Fund who have spent years working on policy issues and meeting with lawmakers. With so many attacks on public lands, this is the time to work together and galvanize climbers,” said AAC’s Policy Director Maria Povec.
“This is an opportunity for Access Fund and American Alpine Club to bring together climbing industry leaders and professional climbers to support our common cause. Climbers have helped shape our public lands system for well over a century, and we are committed to protecting our unique American landscape,” says Access Fund Policy Director Erik Murdock.
Learn more about this joint project at: ClimbTheHill.org
"Since founding Black Diamond in the late 1980s, I’ve seen many secretaries of the Interior and many administrations come and go. But nothing can compare to what I’ve seen over the last year."
2017 Research Grant Recipient Rachael Mallon collects a sample on the Gerdine Glacier while studying the biogeography of snow algae communities.
We're proud to announce the recipients of the 2018 Research Grants, powered by the Alliance for Sustainable Energy (NREL) and supported by Icebreaker, Kavu, the Henry Gholz Memorial Fund, and the following endowments: Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Fund, Scott Fischer Memorial Fund, Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund.
The AAC Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. Grant recipients’ research reflects AAC’s mission “to support our shared passion for climbing and respect for the places we climb” by contributing valuable information to our understanding of the world’s mountain ecosystems. Each grant recipient becomes an AAC Researcher, sharing their experiences, lessons learned, and findings with fellow climbers and the research community.
learn more about the Grants here. Researchers: we can't wait to see what you discover!
March 23, 2018, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC) is proud to announce the recipients of the 2018 Research Grants, powered by the Alliance for Sustainable Energy (NREL) and supported by Icebreaker, Kavu, the Henry Gholz Memorial Fund, and the following endowments: Lara-Karena Bitenieks Kellogg Memorial Fund, Scott Fischer Memorial Fund, Arthur K. Gilkey Memorial Fund and the Bedayn Research Fund.
The AAC Research Grants program supports scientific endeavors in mountain environments around the world. Congratulations to the 2018 Research Grant recipients:
Zeke Baker - $1,500
Bridging climbing access and impacts in a multi-use landscape: A historical political ecology of climbing in Indian Creek, Utah
Zeke Baker is a PhD candidate in Sociology at the University of California, Davis. He is investigating how various groups - rock climbers, ranchers, Native Americans, landowners, government officials, and scientists - have impacted the landscape of the Indian Creek region of Utah, and how they evaluate and make meaningful their respective impacts.
Marie Faust - $1,225
Reproductive consequences of climate change-driven alterations in co-flowering between two subalpine plant species
Marie Faust is a master’s student in Plant Biology and Conservation at Northwestern University. She is examining how climate-driven shifts in co-flowering can affect competition for pollinator services and reproductive success in a subalpine plant species at the Rocky Mountain Biological Laboratory in Gothic, Colorado.
Jessica Gilbert - $1,500
Assessing the impact of anthropogenic activities on high altitude biodiversity in Huascaran National Park, Peru
Jessica Gilbert is a PhD candidate in Wildlife and Fisheries Science at Texas A&M University. Her study aims to assess the impact of human activities on high altitude biodiversity in Andean ecosystems in Huascaran National Park, Peru, comparing the spatial use of habitat by mammalian carnivores in “pristine” environments and areas affected by livestock grazing our tourism activities.
Ethan Guzek - $1,020
Proposed Rockfall and Slope Stability Hazard Assessment, Frenchman Coulee Climbing Area
Ethan Guzek is a master’s student in Engineering Geology at the University of Washington. He is using standard engineering geological methods for studying rock-slope stability and rock fall hazards to conduct a safety assessment for the Sunshine Wall at the Frenchman Coulee climbing area in Washington.
Andrew Hoffman - $1,500
Deriving elevation change, validating GPRI-derived glacier velocities, and using citizen science to enrich public awareness of regional climate change on Mt. Baker, WA
Andrew Hoffman is a PhD candidate in Earth and Space Sciences at the University of Washington. He is investigating glacier speed and retreat on Mt. Baker, Washington using photogrammetry-kinematic GPS surveys, a process that incorporates citizen science efforts.
Rachel Kreb - $1,225
Ecological Restoration: Cushion Plant Facilitation on Alpine Trails
Rachel Kreb is a master’s student in Environmental Biology at Regis University. She is investigating how cushion plants respond to human-caused disturbance along restored and existing trails on Mt. Yale in Colorado.
Marti March Salas - $1,220
The effect of rock climbing on Mediterranean cliff vegetation: Implementation of an innovative and comprehensive methodology in a wide geographical range
Marti March Salas is a PhD student in Biodiversity and Evolutionary Biology at the National Museum of Natural Sciences in Madrid, Spain. He is investigating the impacts of rock climbing on cliffside plant communities in Mediterranean environments by conducting surveys of species richness, plant composition, and vegetation cover in climbing locations in the US, Chile, Spain, and France.
Amy Sturgill - $1,500
Pine Creek Recreation Interaction Study: The Role of Outdoor Recreation in Shaping Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep Habitat Selection
Amy Sturgill is a biologist with the Sierra Nevada Bighorn Sheep Foundation and the California Department of Fish and Wildlife. She is investigating the impacts of recreational use in Pine Creek Canyon, Sierra Nevada, California, on Sierra bighorn sheep habitat selection.
Thank you to our partners and Research Grant Committee members: Danika Gilbert, Louis Reichardt, Matt Hepp, Micah Jessup, and Emily Fenwick.
Part of the AAC’s mission is to respect and support the areas we enjoy, and one of the most important ways to do that is by funding research to better understand such environments. Learn more about the Research Grant: https://americanalpineclub.org/research-grants.
AAC Director and Policy Committee Member Peter Metcalf, incoming Director John Bird, and professional athlete and AAC member Caroline Gleich met with Congressman John Curtis to discuss the AAC’s opposition to his bill on Bears Ears.
When we think about why we love climbing, we think about the sheer joy of being outdoors, the boost to our souls, the tremendous health benefits, the strengthening of character, and the awe we feel about the land and mountains we climb. But at a time when public lands and climbing are threatened by monument reductions, increased energy development, and a changing climate, we need every tool in the toolbox and every argument we can make to protect climbing and the places we love.
You may remember back in November 2016 we saw a great win for climbing and outdoor recreation with passage of the Outdoor REC Act. The REC Act directed the Bureau of Economic Analysis to measure the economic impacts of the outdoor recreation industry, just as it does for agriculture, pharmaceuticals, mining, and other industries. Quantifying the economic importance of outdoor recreation gives concrete data to better inform decisions impacting the pursuits we love and our country’s natural resources.
Last week, the Bureau came out with its first preliminary numbers for the outdoor recreation economy, putting its contribution to the total US GDP at $373.7 billion, or 2% of the US economy. For comparison, mining, oil, and gas comprise 1.4% of GDP, and agriculture (which includes farming, fishing, forestry) is 1%. The Bureau’s report also found that the outdoor recreation economy is growing at 3.8%, faster than the overall economy’s rate of 2.8%.
This data came in handy last week when the AAC Policy Team was in Washington, D.C., meeting with Congressional staff alongside our partners at Outdoor Alliance. In our discussions with Republican and Democratic staff alike on national monuments, the Recreation Not Red-Tape Act, the Land and Water Conservation Fund, and other issues relevant to climbers, it was critically helpful to point to the power of outdoor recreation to our GDP, and make the economic case for climbing and our public lands.
In addition, AAC advocates recently met with Congressman John Curtis (R-UT) at his office in Provo, Utah. AAC Director and Policy Committee Member Peter Metcalf, incoming Director John Bird, and professional athlete and AAC member Caroline Gleich sat down with the Congressman to discuss the AAC’s opposition to his bill on Bears Ears. It was a productive and open conversation, and while the AAC remains opposed to the Congressman’s bill as it stands, we are building relationships on both sides of the aisle to best advocate for climbers and the places we love to climb.
If you’re interested in becoming an AAC policy advocate and meeting with your members of Congress, please reach out to Policy Director Maria Povec, [email protected] and Policy Coordinator Anna Kramer, [email protected].
Photo: BLM
On December 4th, President Donald Trump announced his intention to reduce the size of Bears Ears National Monument by more than 80% and Grand Staircase-Escalante by half. Prior to Obama’s designation of the Bears Ears Monument, climbers have been advocating for protection of this landscape-- for its cultural significance and for its incredible splitter cracks and breathtaking desert sunsets. Since Trump’s move to reduce the monument, climbers have been active in speaking out against this drastic and possibly illegal action through protests, letters and petitions. Now, several months after Trump’s proclamation, we are seeing the implications.
On February 2nd, 2018, a small provision in the proclamation to reduce Bears Ears went into effect that opened the lands outside the monument boundaries to new mining claims and energy development. This move threatens the roughly 40% of climbing areas and the Bears Ears landscape as a whole. In addition, the Bureau of Land Management is beginning its management planning process for the new, smaller monuments. This is all despite the ongoing lawsuits and legislative debates over the reductions of Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante national monuments, which we hope will restore the original national monument boundaries.
The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) is moving forward prematurely with these monument management plans, and the American Alpine Club, along with its partners, has asked the agency to wait until the dust settles from the legal and legislative battles before planning and permitting the staking of mining claims. If the lawsuits succeed and the reductions are overturned, the BLM will have wasted time and resources on a costly management planning process.
Multiple bills regarding these national monuments have also been introduced in the House of Representatives, and are currently being debated in the House Committee on Natural Resources. The outcome of these lawsuits and legislation will likely alter the final boundaries of and management directives for Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante.
Join us in asking the BLM to wait until the legal and legislative debates are over before beginning any monument management planning and permitting new mining claims and energy development in the Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante areas. Visit the BLM comment page to share your thoughts about the future of these landscapes. For example:
I am a rock climber and a member of the American Alpine Club. The Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante regions hold great value to our community. I am concerned by the possibility of new mining and energy development in these special places. As climbers, we ask that the Bureau of Land Management keep these areas closed to new claims, and wait to begin the management planning process until the lawsuits and legislative debates over these monuments are resolved. These areas deserve protection and a management plan that prioritizes sustainable recreation. Thank you for your consideration.
Stay tuned for more updates on Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments.
In 2016, AAC awarded the David R. Brower Award to Kris McDivitt Tompkins for her conservation work in South America. For more than two decades, Kris and her husband Douglas Tompkins have donated large tracts of land to the park systems of Chile and Argentina. A recent donation to the Chilean park system includes lodging, campground and dining facilities, and trails, bridges and roads. With this latest donation, more than 13 million acres have been conserved in the two countries.
Kris' recent New York Times Op-Ed is a beautiful piece about why democracy depends on preserving land for the common good. As Kris writes, "National parks, monuments and other public lands remind us that regardless of race, economic standing or citizenship, we all depend on a healthy planet for our survival...two hundred years from now let the elephants trumpet, the giant sequoias sway in stiff winds and our descendants enjoy healthy lives aware of their place in this wild thing we call nature."
Read her full piece here.
After the December 4th, 2017 announcement by President Donald Trump to reduce and modify the Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments, our climbing community responded forcefully and quickly to oppose the decision. Climbers joined Native American groups, conservation organizations, and many others to ensure that these treasured landscapes remain protected. President Trump’s unprecedented actions constituted the largest reversal of federal land protection in the nation's history.
A variety of lawsuits have been filed to halt the changes to Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante. Two of these lawsuits were filed by environmental and conservation groups to oppose the reduction and modification of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, designated by President Bill Clinton in 1996. The remaining three lawsuits are focused on preventing the reduction and modification of Bears Ears National Monument into two smaller units with different proclamation language. One of these lawsuits was filed by the five Native American tribes representing the Bears Ears Inter-Tribal Coalition, and another was filed by an array of environmental and conservation groups, including our partners at the Sierra Club and the Wilderness Society. Our partners at the Access Fund have also filed, joining a lawsuit by Patagonia, Utah Dine Bikeyah, and others.
The AAC supports the Access Fund and other plaintiff organizations as they legally challenge the reduction and modification of both monuments, particularly Bears Ears, where the proclamation explicitly acknowledged the region’s outstanding recreational values, including “world class” rock climbing as a basis for designation. As the monument litigation proceeds, the AAC will submit an amicus curiae (“friend of the court”) brief to make clear our opposition of the reduction and modification of the monuments. We also oppose any action by the administration aimed at weakening the efficacy of Antiquities Act as a means to conserve mountain environments and to protect opportunities for climbing.
Photo: Jay Dash
The AAC is actively engaged with appropriate congressional representatives and administration officials to respond to the broader legislative attacks on the national monuments that, if passed, could be even more detrimental to Utah’s desert and mountain environments and the interests of climbers than the December 4th proclamations. Presently, these threats are in the form of two bills introduced in the House of Representatives shortly after the December 4th proclamations: the Shash Jaa National Monument and Indian Creek National Monument Act, and the Grand Staircase Escalante Enhancement Act. If passed, these bills would legislatively affirm the proclamations that reduced and modified Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments, effectively ending any lawsuits over these reductions because it is generally acknowledged that Congress has full authority to reduce or eliminate national monuments.
The Shash Jaa National Monument and Indian Creek National Monument Act proposes to designate the two new smaller monuments Shash Jaa and Indian Creek. Unlike the original proclamation of Bears Ears National Monument, which explicitly recognized the importance of preserving rock climbing opportunities within the area, this bill makes no reference to climbing and only minimal reference to recreation in general. By legislatively affirming a new, smaller monument containing parts of what climbers know as Indian Creek, the bill would ensure the removal of national monument protections from roughly 40% of the climbing areas within Bears Ears. Furthermore, the Shash Jaa National Monument and Indian Creek National Monument Act, like the December 4th proclamation, ignores the will of millions of Americans who spoke out in favor of protecting the original Bears Ears National Monument. This legislation undoubtedly poses a greater, more permanent threat to this area than President Trump’s December 4th reduction and modification. Therefore, the AAC is working with partners and policy makers to oppose this bill.
A similar bill has been introduced in the House regarding the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. The Grand Staircase-Escalante Enhancement Act proposes to transform the three smaller units created by the December 4th proclamation into three national monuments, and create a national park and preserve within one of those units. Any land of the former Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument outside the boundaries of these new monuments and park, however, would be declared open to sale, disposal, mineral and geothermal leasing, and mining. These acts pose a significant threat to our public lands and to this incredible region in particular. Consequently, the AAC and many other conservation groups oppose this bill.
These legislative attacks would prevent the re-establishment of both the original Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments, should any of the lawsuits against the President’s actions succeed. This is because the arguments of these lawsuits center on the limits of executive authority, and if they succeed, only Congress would then have the power to establish these new, smaller monuments. The AAC is working to oppose these bills and to push for new legislation to restore protections for these incredible areas and to ensure the integrity of our climbing landscapes.
The AAC is committed to working in collaboration with our partners to address critical public policy issues facing America’s mountain environments, the interests of climbers, and outdoor recreation. We advocate nationally for keeping public lands pristine, wild, and open to human-powered recreation. All of us at the AAC find a deep meaning in climbing, and we are committed to advocating for climbers and working to ensure our nation’s laws provide for thriving outdoor communities, sustained by healthy mountain environments and vibrant climbing landscapes for generations to come.
Your contributions and membership to the Club help us continue the fight for our national monuments and climbing areas. Stay tuned for more updates from your policy team.
The Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is facing a tremendous threat. Its solitude and silence are one step closer to being replaced with noisy drilling equipment and heavy machinery. Over the course of our 115-year history, the American Alpine Club has been committed to protecting our country’s most treasured landscapes, including the Arctic. With Congress’ budget vote last week, the future of this crown jewel is at risk.
Located in northern Alaska, the Arctic Refuge offers dramatic mountain summits, inspiration and endless adventure. As AAC Managing Director Keegan Young says, “These mountain ranges and untouched landscapes represent the wild places in our heart and mind. I’ve climbed all over the world but return to these peaks because they ignite my soul. It's not just the rugged terrain, it's the solitude and magnificent beauty.”
Last week, the United States Senate passed a budget resolution that charges the Senate Energy and Natural Resources Committee with reducing the federal deficit through revenues created by oil and gas leasing in the Arctic Refuge. Since the House of Representatives already passed a similar budget provision early this year, both the House and Senate will work to reconcile their budget versions before final passage and delivery to the president.
The AAC has a long legacy of scientific exploration and adventure in the Arctic—pioneering cutting-edge new routes and supporting research expeditions that have contributed valuable information to our understanding of mountain, Antarctic and Arctic ecosystems. For example, AAC Board Member Kit DesLauriers completed the first known ascent of Mount Isto in the ANWR and has been working to merge environmental science with adventure. Check out her story here.
Help protect our last great frontier: As climbers, we have a duty to protect the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge for future generations. We still have time to urge Congress to protect the Arctic Refuge and stop irresponsible energy development there.
Check out how your Senators voted. Call and tell them that you think the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge is too precious to be developed and tell them how you feel about their vote: (202) 224-3121.
Banner photo by Paxson Woelber.
"Why do we love our public lands so much? Because so many of us have felt first hand the incredible benefits of spending time in the country we fought to defend. Time outdoors for many of us, regardless of the wounds we did or did not receive, and regardless when we served, has given us a pathway to a healthier and more fulfilling life."
Read Stacy Bare's commentary in the Salt Lake Tribune here.
Betsy Manero climbs an Indian Creek classic. The Creek, a part of Bear's Ears National Monument, is now under threat.
Emma Longcope photo.
The American Alpine Club is concerned by Zinke’s recommendation to modify 10 national monuments, including reducing Utah’s Bears Ears and Grand Staircase-Escalante, Nevada’s Gold Butte, and Oregon’s Cascade-Siskiyou.
Any modifications to these monuments will impact the future of critical climbing resources on our public lands and the Antiquities Act—the law signed by President Theodore Roosevelt to protect the important archaeological, historic and scientific assets that face imminent threat.
The American Alpine Club is fiercely committed to our country’s national monuments—their wild landscapes and cultural and scientific resources.
Celebrated Utah athletes Caroline Gleich and Stacy Bare will join the Utah chapter of the American Alpine Club on August 9, 2017 to climb with Utah’s Congressional staffers and showcase the state’s rich climbing resources. Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts from around the globe, particularly rock climbers. The state’s 54 million acres of public land—especially its National Parks and Monuments—offer premier rock climbing on world-class shale, sandstone, quartzite and granite.
August 9, 2017, Golden, CO— Celebrated Utah athletes Caroline Gleich and Stacy Bare will join the Utah chapter of the American Alpine Club (AAC) on August 9, 2017 to climb with Utah’s Congressional staffers and showcase the state’s rich climbing resources. The state of Utah attracts outdoor enthusiasts from around the globe, particularly rock climbers. Utah’s 54 million acres of public land—especially its National Parks and Monuments—offer premier rock climbing on world-class shale, sandstone, quartzite and granite.
The AAC and athletes will use the day of climbing in Big Cottonwood Canyon as an opportunity to share their experiences on public lands with staffers and to celebrate Utah’s rich outdoor recreation heritage. Climbers will also discuss public lands, the outdoor recreation economy and climbing management in Utah.
“Climbers have a vested interest in policy decisions. Showing up to make our voice heard and to share our passion for climbing is key to the future of the sport,” stated Adam Peters, Utah resident and AAC staff member. “By working together with industry and partner organizations, we form a stronger united front to share the climbing community’s priorities and support of public lands with our representatives.”
Public lands are not only the backbone of outdoor recreation; they also support a healthy economy. According to The Outdoor Recreation Economy Report, 2017 by the Outdoor Industry Association, outdoor recreation in Utah alone generates $12.3 billion in direct consumer spending and 110,000 jobs annually. That’s a lot to celebrate.
The piece below is courtesy of the National Renewable Energy Lab (NREL). You can view the .pdf here. You can also learn more about the Research Grants we offer that enabled this project, and start dreaming up your own.
High up in the alpine, above the tree line where the air is thin and the sun is bright, the seemingly inhospitable alpine ecosystem supports an incredible range of native species including mountain goats, marmots, and pikas. Nestled beneath our climbing boots and the crunch of the fallen alpine snow lives another world of microscopic treasures like arthropods, fungi, bacteria, and algae.
To 2017 American Alpine Club (AAC) research grant recipient Rachael Mallon, the fragile yet resilient ecosystems of the alpine environment drive her curiosity and passion for scientific discovery and climbing. While studying biology at the University of Puget Sound, Rachael spent two summers hiking on glaciers throughout the Pacific Northwest, researching the phylogeography and ecology of ice worms.
"I love the solitude of the alpine environment and the crazy swings between the seasons," Rachael said. "At the same time, I respect how harsh the environment is and how creatures—great and small—survive and shape the alpine ecosystem."
Today, Rachael researches snow algae in the Cascade Mountain Range while pursuing a master's degree in biology at Western Washington University. AAC's research grant helped fund her research on the changes in snow algae communities by geographic location.
The Secret Life of Snow Algae
Dormant in the winter, snow algae are invisible to the naked eye until spring when increased levels of light and water stimulate growth. Algae practice photosynthesis—turning sunlight, carbon dioxide, and water into oxygen and chemical energy in the form of sugar—until they grow into a massive "bloom" of algal biomass. Watermelon-colored pigmentation is a characteristic of the bloom. This results in a wavy sea of pink-colored snow sloping up through the tundra.
Like human sunscreen, the pigmentation allows snow algae to withstand the intense ultraviolet rays from the sun at that elevation. The watermelon pigment serves another purpose, increasing the snow algae's preferred habitat for photosynthesis—water. Like wearing a black t-shirt on a hot sunny day, the darker-colored snow absorbs the sun's rays, increasing the amount of liquid water.
"The beauty of the snow algae is its ability to engineer an ecosystem and nourish other tiny alpine creatures," says Rachael. "Through photosynthesis the algae create sugar, which is also a food source for the ice worms, fungi, and bacteria."
What Makes Rachael's Research Different
Previous research of snow algae communities shows that watermelon snow harbors 2–40 species of algae. Although snow algae are found on every continent, research to address changes in these algal communities by geographic location has been limited. Rachael's research tracks snow algae communities in the Cascades to see how they differ based on where they live.
"My research will be the first comprehensive snow microbe biodiversity study across the whole Cascade mountain range," said Rachael.
On each peak, she would collect two to eight samples from different locations and record information like latitude and longitude, quality of the snow, elevation, and aspect of the slope. Back at the lab, the snow algae samples undergo DNA extraction and then molecular analysis. A component of the snow algae DNA helps determine which species of snow algae it is. After analyzing the field and DNA data, Rachael will be able to describe how snow algae communities vary throughout the Pacific Northwest, including how these communities change with respect to time and altitude.
The Impact of Snow Algae Research and the AAC Research Grant
Ironically, the way that snow algae survives intense solar radiation creates a biofeedback loop causing glacial snow to melt even faster.
"A recent study on the Harding Icefield in Alaska found that snow algae can increase the amount of melting by four times the amount that white snow would," Rachael said. "Currently, snow algae impact on glacial snow melt within climate change models is not taken into consideration. If we don't consider snow algae in the bigger picture of glacial melting within these models, then we aren't getting the full story how glaciers are impacted over time."
With the help of an American Alpine Club Research Grant, Rachael was able to continue her study of these tiny treasures and their influence on the ecosystem. "It's inspiring to me for a community like the AAC to use a portion of their dues to fund alpine research. I’m so grateful that the AAC is supporting scientists who work to understand and preserve the climbing areas that we care about."
Climbers as Citizen Scientists
There are several ways AAC members and outdoor enthusiasts can assist with data collection while doing what they love. The Living Snow Project, at Western Washington University's Kodner Lab, involves the outdoor recreation community as "citizen scientists" in research exploring the biodiversity of alpine snow ecosystems. If you find yourself climbing in the north and central Cascades, the process of collecting snow algae is simple and fun:
• Sign up to volunteer
• Receive a sample kit
• Collect pink or watermelon snow on your next trip
• Note the GPS coordinates
• Send the sample back in the mail
June 12, 2017: This afternoon, Secretary Zinke released his interim report on Bears Ears National Monument. Despite overwhelming public support to keep Bears Ears as designated, his recommendations include a reduction to the size of the monument.
Read our joint statement with Outdoor Alliance here.
Postcard by AAC Content Coordinator Emma Longcope
The official public comment period on Bears Ears started May 12 and has been extended. It now closes on July 10.
The Department of the Interior is, for the first time ever, asking the public to officially weigh in on the national monuments under review, per President Trump's April 26, 2017 Executive Order. We only have until July 10 to provide input during this public comment period.
Now more than ever we need your voice to help protect Bears Ears National Monument. Find out more about the Bears Ears issue here and read AAC member John Climaco's opinion piece about it here. You can also learn more by reading about our recent trip to D.C. to Climb the Hill.
Why a postcard?
The Department of the Interior accepts comments both online and by mail. Adding your name to a petition or online comment chain is important. A unique and tangible note, however, carries extra weight with elected officials.
Click on the button below to use our pre-addressed postcard template that you can print out and send to the Department of Interior. (Tip: print double-sided with card stock paper.)
Writing Tips:
Make it personal: Share your story about why you love Bears Ears National Monument.
Provide a call to action: Ask the Department of Interior to protect Bears Ears National Monument.
Use some of the suggested messages below or craft your own. Feel free to edit these messages and add your voice.
-The Bears Ears region in southeastern Utah is one of the greatest climbing destinations in the U.S. I love to climb in the Bears Ears area because....
-I support the Bears Ears National Monument because it protects climbing and significant Native American cultural sites.
-The Antiquities Act is a valuable tool for protecting America's heritage.
-Do not rescind or reduce Bears Ears National Monument.
Our template includes the Department of the Interior's address, but if you're making your own, address it to:
Monument Review, MS-1530
U.S. Department of the Interior
1849 S Street NW
Washington, DC 20240
Time is running out! No time for a postcard?
You can:
Use the climbers’ letter writing tool.
Submit comments online at http://www.regulations.gov by entering “DOI-2017-0002” in the Search bar and clicking “Search.”
Call the Department of the Interior with any questions: Randal Bowman, 202-208-1906.
Tweet at Secretary Ryan Zinke: @SecretaryZinke.
Thank you for helping to preserve this wonderful place! We're stronger together.
Artwork: AAC staff member Emma Longcope