AAC News

2019 US Team Announced for the UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Comp

We’re thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.


Golden, CO, December 5, 2018—The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest non-profit organization for climbers, is thrilled to announced the 2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team. The team of 21 male and female athletes is set to compete in the upcoming UIAA World Cup Ice Climbing Tour, and 18 will compete here in Denver, CO. February 23 – 24, 2019.

 The AAC led the application process and final selection of the 2019 USA Team. Criteria was based on national rankings from recent competitive ice climbing seasons and events, and a preference for athletes who compete in cross-disciplinary ice competition (e.g. athletes that compete in both the Difficulty (Lead) and Speed competitions). The AAC also provided “developmental” spots on the team for less experienced competition climbers who demonstrate exceptional talent and commitment to the sport. Equal team positions were available for men and women in the performance (6) and developmental (2) categories.

 The final 2019 USA Team consists of 21 adults and 10 youth members.Phil Powers, CEO at the AAC said “These athletes represent the cutting edge of one of the more wild versions of the climbing craft. I am astounded every time I witness their gymnastics and delicate skill all performed far off the ground with ice axes and crampons.”

The 2019 event is the first time the Ice Climbing World Tour has come to Denver, Colorado and the first time a World Cup Finals event has been held in the USA. The weekend event will be held in Denver’s Civic Center Park and is free to the public. The ice climbing competition will take place over two days with qualifying rounds on Sat, Feb 23, and semi-finals and overall finals on Sun, Feb 24. The event is expected to attract over 200 athletes from 21 countries around the world to compete for the overall World Cup in both Difficulty and Speed categories.

Competition ice climbing combines formidable over-hanging walls of ice with artful technique and sheer power. In the lead discipline, ice climbers require great technique, tactical mastery and nerves of steel to execute complex moves in seemingly improbable positions dozens of feet above the ground. The speed discipline is almost a vertical take on the 100m sprint in the sport of athletics. In 2014, competitive ice climbing debuted as an exhibition sport at the Sochi Winter Olympics and is hopeful for a full-scale Olympic debut in the near future.

 

2019 USA World Cup Ice Climbing Team: 

Denver World Cup Finals:

Mens Lead:

Tyler Kempney

Thomas Gehrlein

Aaron Montgomery

Grant Kleeves

Kevin Lindlau

Wesley Fowler

Carter Stritch

Troy Anger

 

Womens Lead: 

Corey Buhay

Catalina Shirley

Claire Poppendeck

Mikayla Tougas

Angela Tomczik

Angela Limbach

Kendra Stritch

Mens Speed:

Tyler Kempney

Thomas Gehrlein

Kevin Lindlau

Wesley Fowler

Marcus Garcia

Jake Bourdow

Troy Anger

Carter Stritch

 

Womens Speed:

Corey Buhay

Catalina Shirley

Claire Poppendeck

Angela Tomczik

Angela Limbach

Kendra Stritch

Lindsay Hastings

2018/2019 International World Cup Events:

Mens Team: 

Tyler Kempney

Thomas Gehrlein

Kevin Lindlau

Carter Stritch

Troy Anger

Liam Foster

Cody Stevenson

Andrew Lamb

Marcus Garcia

Carter Stritch

 

Womens Team:

Angela Tomczik

Angela Limbach

Kendra Stritch

Lindsay Hastings

 

World Cup Youth Team:

Keenan Griscom

Calvin Daugherty

Kylie Cullen

Georgia Witchel

Aubrey Palmer

Maija Fox

MaKenzee Van Buren

Liam Foster

Cody Stevenson

Mikayla Tougas

Katie Seymour

Lindsay Levine

Christopher Atchison

Catalina Shirley

 

Support the USA Ice Climbing Team.

Read more about the 2019 USA World Cup Team here:

https://americanalpineclub.org/world-cup/2018/11/26/2019-usa-world-cup-ice-climbing-team

2019 Denver Ice Climbing World Cup Schedule:

Friday, Feb 22                     Opening Ceremony

Saturday, Feb 23                  8AM – 8PM // Lead Qualifiers, Speed Qualifiers

Sunday, Feb 24                    8AM – 5PM // Lead Semi-Finals, Lead Finals, Speed Finals, Closing Ceremony, After Party (hosted by the AAC)

AAC Offers Veterans New Membership Options and Outreach

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We’re proudly expanding our efforts to engage active-duty military and veterans through new membership options and proactive outreach. The effort—led in large part by active-duty military AAC members—seeks to engage the veteran community by offering discounted Club membership, hosting veteran-focused climbing events, and promoting wellness and camaraderie through the pursuit of climbing.

Last spring, we launched a new grassroots public lands advocacy initiative, “Hill to Crag”, to take elected officials and their staff rock climbing. The event quickly expanded in scope once AAC’s Salt Lake Chapter Chair Byron Harvison became involved. Harvison, a life-long climber and active-duty US Army Major, saw the events as an opportunity to share his and other veterans’ experiences with rock climbing and public land with lawmakers.

“After returning home from an intense deployment in Afghanistan, I found climbing not only to be a retreat back to what I loved, but a good place to settle my thoughts,” says Army Major Harvison, “In my role in the Armed Forces, I’ve seen many people deal with substance abuse and depression post deployment. Climbing facilitates positive community engagement, healthy lifestyle, and connection to wild landscapes.”

Together with Major Harvison, the AAC we’ve organized four “Hill to Crag” events in 2018 and are rolling out a new AAC Veteran Chapter, which Harvison will Chair. We also plan to extend a special membership discount to active-duty military and veterans starting in early 2019.


Golden, CO, November 8, 2018 The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest and largest climbing advocacy non-profit, is proudly expanding the organization’s efforts to engage active-duty military and veterans through new membership options and proactive outreach. The effort—led in large part by active-duty military members of the American Alpine Club—seeks to engage the veteran community by offering discounted club membership, hosting veteran-focused climbing events, and promoting wellness and camaraderie through the pursuit of climbing.

In spring 2018, the American Alpine Club launched a new grassroots public lands advocacy initiative known as “Hill to Crag” with the intention to take elected officials and their staff rock-climbing. The event quickly expanded in scope once AAC’s Salt Lake Chapter Chair Byron Harvison became involved. Harvison, a life-long climber and active-duty US Army Major, saw the events as an opportunity to share his and other veterans’ experiences with rock climbing and public land with lawmakers.

“After returning home from an intense deployment in Afghanistan, I found climbing not only to be a retreat back to what I loved, but a good place to settle my thoughts,” says Army Major Harvison, “In my role in the Armed Forces, I’ve seen many people deal with substance abuse and depression post deployment. Climbing facilitates positive community engagement, healthy lifestyle, and connection to wild landscapes.”

Together with Major Harvison, the American Alpine Club has organized four “Hill to Crag” events in 2018 and is rolling out a new AAC Veteran Chapter, which Harvison will Chair. The AAC also plans to extend a special membership discount to active-duty military and veterans starting in early 2019.

Phil Powers, American Alpine Club CEO, added, “The American Alpine Club has been closely linked with our nation’s armed forces for a long time. The advocacy that created the 10th Mountain Division during WWII—and the training that followed—came largely from AAC leadership. The creation of a Veterans Chapter and Major Harvison's work connecting legislators and veterans through Hill to the Crag events are logical outgrowths of this history.”

2018 Hill to Crag Event Schedule:

November 16, 2018—Chimney Rock State Park, North Carolina

October 19, 2018—Vedauwoo Recreation Area, Wyoming

October 12, 2018—Golden, Colorado, VIDEO: https://youtu.be/W5Iw1fDigHE

May 26, 2018—Joe’s Valley, Utah

$10,000 In Grants to Replace Aging Bolts

Photo: Craig Hoffman

Photo: Craig Hoffman

The American Alpine Club and Access Fund are excited to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards with funding going towards nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country:

  • Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition

  • Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

  • Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission

  • Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve

  • Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

  • Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance

  • Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

  • Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition

  • Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition


Golden, CO, October 15, 2018—The Access Fund and American Alpine Club are pleased to announce the 2018 Anchor Replacement Fund grant awards. Now in its third year, the grant program launched to address the growing concerns of anchor failure and the access issues that could result from these incidents. This year, we are thrilled to announce funding for nine worthy anchor replacement projects across the country.

Rocky Pass/Gallatin Canyon, MT - Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition

Southwest Montana Climbers Coalition (SMCC) was awarded funding to replace plated 3/8” wedge anchors with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve and glue-in anchors using sustainable replacement techniques (hole re-use) to preserve the character of the routes and the rock. SMCC will engage local volunteers to expand their ability to tackle aging bolts at the gneiss and limestone crags in the region.

Red River Gorge, KY - Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative

Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative (RRGFGI) was awarded funding to replace rusting and aging hardware on the steep sandstone cliffs throughout the region with 1/2” stainless glue-in anchors. RRGFGI is planning to replace over 300 bad bolts in 2019 and is striving to keep bad bolts in the region to fewer than 50 at any given time. RRGFGI works to replace aging bolts throughout the Red River Gorge region.

Slab Camp, KY - Morehead Tourism Commission

Morehead Tourism Commission was awarded funding to tackle rebolting efforts at Slab Camp, a half-mile section of cliff line featuring approximately 60 routes that were originally bolted in the early 1990s with hardware store bolts and anchors. The routes include a mix of both sport and traditional, with all sport routes requiring new bolts and anchors and all traditional routes in need of new anchors. All bolts will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel glue-ins. The Morehead Tourism Commission has enlisted the help of local climbers and rebolting experts from the Red River Gorge Fixed Gear Initiative to assist them with the effort through training and consultation on rebolting practices.

Shawangunk Mountains, NY - Mohonk Preserve

The Mohonk Preserve was awarded funding to replace eight tree and piton anchors in the Gunks with 1/2” stainless steel sleeve anchors. New bolted anchors placed below the cliff top will reduce climber impacts to the top of the cliff on routes like Gelsa in the Near Trapps. They will also replace aging piton anchors on popular routes like Son of Easy O in the Trapps.

Obed, TN - East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition

East Tennessee Climbers’ Coalition (ETCC) was awarded funding to support their goal of rebolting the entire Obed in 5 years. ETCC is tackling replacement of approximately 4,000 aging bolts, which are all approaching 30 years of age, throughout the popular northeast Tennessee climbing area. ETCC has already undertaken this massive challenge, enlisting the help of volunteers and replacing 730 bolts with 1/2” stainless steel anchors this year alone.

Smith Rock, OR - High Desert Climbers Alliance

High Desert Climbers Alliance (HDCA) was awarded funding to replace aging hardware at Smith Rock State Park in central Oregon. HDCA will engage local volunteer bolt replacers to replace aging plated hardware that has been in the rock for over 40 years with long last 1/2” stainless steel hardware.

Boulder Canyon, CO - Boulder Climbing Community

Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) was awarded funding for rebolting efforts in Boulder Canyon and other Front Range climbing areas. The BCC will purchase 100 1/2” stainless steel sleeve bolts and hangers, as well as 40 anchor set-ups. Their annual rebolting events will take place at North Table Mountain, Boulder Canyon, and Clear Creek Canyon.

Spearfish Canyon, SD - Black Hills Climbers Coalition

The Black Hills Climbers Coalition (BHCC) was awarded funding to replace aging anchors at popular crags throughout Spearfish Canyon. The BHCC is tackling replacement of 300+ routes, which were equipped 25 years ago with plated and mixed metals. The BHCC will replace these aging anchors using high quality stainless steel glue-ins to meet the highest standards for fixed anchors at limestone sport climbing areas.

Ten Sleep Cayon, WY - Bighorn Climbers Coalition

The Bighorn Climbers Coalition (BCC) was awarded funding to address aging anchors in Ten Sleep Canyon. The BCC will focus on replacing wedge bolts, cold shuts, and worn lower-off anchors throughout the canyon. These will be replaced with 1/2” stainless steel bolts and high quality ring anchors and lower-off hooks specifically manufactured for climbing.

Climbing & Splitboarding Adventure Grant Updates

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We’re excited to announce the following climbing and adventure grants are now open for applications, meaning we’re awarding over $40,000 to climbers and backcountry snowboarders in the next few months!

  • CUTTING EDGE GRANT
    The Cutting Edge Grant seeks to fund advanced and capable climbers planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Awards will typically fall in the $5,000 to $15,000 range, however award amounts will vary based on project and budget. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.

  • JONES ADVENTURE GRANTS
    The Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant & the Jones Live Like Liz Award support splitboarding expeditions with strong exploratory and adventure components. The project objective may focus on a single descent/summit or a tour/traverse of a region. Each grant recipient will receive a $1,500 cash award plus a Jones splitboard, skins and backcountry touring backpack. 

    The Jones Live Like Liz Award is open only to our female riders, while the Jones Backcountry Adventure Grant is open to all AAC members. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.

  • COPP-DASH INSPIRE AWARD
    EXTENDED DEADLINE! Established in the memory of Jonny Copp and Micah Dash, the Copp-Dash Inspire Award provides $20,000 in climbing grants to assist small teams tackling difficult climbs in the great mountains of the world and multimedia instruction to help them to share their ascents through a blend of storytelling elements. Open through November 30th—learn more & apply.

    Not a fit for these grants? The Live Your Dream Grant and others will open for applications this winter and spring, so stay tuned.


#CLIMBLIKEAGIRL

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This is our effort to bring more women into the AAC community and bring attention to the need to support women in climbing. These shirts, with art by AAC member Brooklyn Bell, are designed to mean more.

What does #climblikeagirl mean to you? Wear your shirt proudly, snap a photo, use the hashtag, let us know. Then go crush it out there. 

Use PROMOCODE: CLIMBLIKEAGIRLSHIRT when you Join or Renew from Sept. 14th to Oct. 15th and receive a free #climblikeagirl tank or Tee!


AAC Responds to the Sexual Harassment Survey

This past summer we helped launch a survey to better understand the results of sexual harassment and sexual assault (SHSA) in climbing. Over 5,000 climbers took the survey around the world and the results are staggering. 

About 40% of women and 9% of men answered “yes” to the question “Have you experienced SHSA while engaged in a climbing activity?” 

The survey also asked about more specific behaviors: have respondents experienced specific types of SHSA (e.g., unwanted touching, forced kissing, etc.). These more detailed questions revealed that 47%  of women and 16% of men have experienced interactions that could be classified as SHSA while engaged in a climbing activity, even if they do not report it as such. 

Looking at data from the United States alone, the numbers are similar in range as the global data: 

42% of US women and 9% of US men answered “yes” to the question “Have you experienced SHSA while engaged in a climbing activity?” 

50% of US women and 15% of US men reported experiencing behavior that that could be classified as SHSA while engaged in a climbing activity, even if they do not report it as such. 

At the American Alpine Club, we know safety means more than a good belay. We strive to maintain a safe and non-hostile work environment for our employees, volunteers, and all participants at AAC events. We also acknowledge that our role as a leader within the climbing community extends our responsibility to promote a safe and harassment-free environment among the entire climbing community.

AAC members and volunteer leaders are expected to serve as role models in the community. American Alpine Club will appropriately screen all staff and volunteer leaders prior to granting leadership positions. Reports of discriminatory and inappropriate behavior will be dealt with swiftly, seriously, and judiciously. Violations of our harassment and assault policy will include discipline up to and including termination of membership or employment at the AAC.

Hear what your Board President Deanne Buck and CEO Phil Powers have to say in an op-ed to Alpinist.

Learn more about what the data is telling us. and how climbing and outdoor communities around the world are doing to collect data, drive conversation, share best practices, provide press coverage and address the issues.

 

Packs for Public Lands

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AAC has joined forces with Cotopaxi and Utah-based artist Samantha Zim to create limited edition packs

The packs feature side panels with custom art inspired by the Utah desert. 

The Cotopaxi Luzon Del Día also features a top drawstring closure, front zippered pocket, ultralight mesh shoulder straps, large main compartment, internal hydration sleeve, and lightweight ripstop nylon shell fabric. The pack is available in two colors: blue & purple.

Proceeds from the sales of these packs will support AAC's Policy & Conservation Program. We only created 600 of these; get yours before they're gone!

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The 2018 Guidebook to Membership is Here!

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The 2018 Guidebook to Membership is here! The Guidebook is our Club’s collective yearbook. This year’s issue, “the changing faces of the AAC”, features stories and photos by some incredible changemakers in our community as well as information about AAC programs and opportunities. We hope you find it inspiring and informative! If you’ve opted to receive our print publications, you should see it in your mailbox any day now. You can also view the Guidebook online.

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Cover photo by Austin Siadak. 


The American Alpine Club Announces 2018 ‘Excellence in Climbing’ Honors and Benefit Evening

May 1, 2018, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club (AAC), the country's oldest and largest climbing and mountaineering member organization, is thrilled to announce the organization's 2018 inductees to the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence and the winner of the 2018 H Adams Carter Literary Award. The honors, which recognize a lifetime of achievement in their respective categories, will be bestowed at the 3rd Annual Excellence in Climbing Celebration on June 2, 2018 at the History Colorado Center.

The Hall of Mountaineering Excellence recognizes those who have made lasting contributions both on and off the mountain. The 2018 inductees are a truly impressive class of climbers and alpinists, who have used their knowledge and success to positively influence new generations of climbers.

2018 Inductees to the Hall of Mountaineering Excellence:

Danika Gilbert - For her work with ASCEND: Leadership Through Athletics, empowering young Afghan women through climbing to become leaders who are equipped and motivated to help their society transition to peace.

David Roberts - For his storied career as a published author of over 20 books and mentorship of young  authors, preserving and growing the art of storytelling.

Doug Chabot - For co-founding the Iqra Fund, which provides access to quality education, especially for girls in the remote regions of northern Pakistan, improving their quality of life.

The H. Adams Carter Literary Award was established to recognize excellence in climbing literature. Recipients of this award have contributed extensively to the art and include honorees like Jon Krakauer, Katie Ives, John Long, and Alison Osius.

2018 H. Adams Carter Literary Award: Jeff Jackson - For a decade of dedication and inspiring work at Rock & Ice magazine.

The celebration event will be held on Saturday June 2, 2018, at History Colorado Center located at 1200 N Broadway, Denver, CO 80203. The evening includes presentations by honorees, a cocktail reception, live and silent auctions, libations, and food. And since no AAC function would be complete without a dance party, the evening will be appropriately capped-off with live 80's music by The Goonies, along with more drinks, games, and gear giveaways.

All event proceeds benefit The American Alpine Club Library and The Bradford Washburn American Mountaineering Museum, dedicated to preserving and celebrating our shared climbing history.

Tickets are very limited. For more information about the weekend activities and to reserve your spot, call (303) 384-0110 or visit americanalpineclub.org/excellence.

Registration closes on May 29, or when sold out.

About American Alpine Club

The American Alpine Club is a 501(c)(3) charitable organization whose vision is a united community of competent climbers and healthy climbing landscapes. Together with our members, the AAC advocates for American climbers domestically and around the world; provides grants and volunteer opportunities to protect and conserve the places we climb; hosts local and national climbing festivals and events; publishes two of the world's most sought-after climbing annuals, the American Alpine Journal and Accidents in North American Climbing; cares for the world's leading climbing library and country's leading mountaineering museum; manages the Hueco Rock Ranch, New River Gorge Campground, Rumney Rattlesnake Campground, Samuel F. Pryor Shawangunk Gateway Campground, and Grand Teton Climbers' Ranch as part of a larger lodging network for climbers; and annually gives $100,000+ toward climbing, conservation, and research grants that fund adventurers who travel the world. Learn about additional programs and become a member at www.americanalpineclub.org

 

Survey: Sexual Harassment and Assault in Climbing

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We're partnering with Alpinist and climbing organizations across the country to launch a survey on the occurrence of sexual harassment and sexual assault in the climbing world. Our goal is to quantify the extent of this problem in our community.

Your responses are important whether or not you have experienced sexual harassment or sexual assault. All responses will be kept anonymous unless you specify otherwise. The survey won’t require specifics, but you will have the opportunity to share details if you wish, or participate voluntarily in follow-up conversation(s). You may also have the opportunity to opt-in to journalistic reporting. The survey takes fewer than 5 minutes to complete, and should be done by 11:59 pm (Pacific Time) on THURSDAY, May 31, 2018. (The deadline has been extended from May 6.) Take the survey here.


Responses gathered will be generalized for the purpose of reporting, and will be used to help us to impove policies to reduce incidents, increase understanding, and provide better support systems for all climbers. Analysis will be done by two independent data scientists: Dr. Callie Rennison, renowned victimologist, and leading expert in statistical and survey methods; and Charlie Lieu, trained computational biologist with nearly 25 years of big data and decision analytics experience, often in clinical context requiring HIPAA privacy and security.

Other than use for analysis purposes by the two data scientists listed above, the raw data will be inaccessible by anyone else without explicit consent. The final data set will be stored with the highest security method, on a password-protected air-gapped device.

If you have any questions or concerns about this survey, please contact Dr. Rennison, at [email protected].

 

Photo: AAC member Jason Gebauer

AAC Chicago Chapter Chair Savannah Buik Passes Away in Climbing Accident

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Our hearts are heavy with the news that Savannah Buik passed away in a climbing accident yesterday. Savannah was our charismatic Chicago Chapter leader, spent last summer interning with us here in Golden, and just graduated with her BS in Mathematics.

When, a few months ago, we asked her why she climbs, she wrote:
"I divert to climbing to help me experience ALL emotions: happiness, anger, frustration, sadness, excitement... the emotions combine to make me feel whole again. Climbing is my way of feeling."

Savannah was an inspiration in our community, and we miss her laugh ringing through the office and local crags. We continue to be inspired by her positive spirit.

*UPDATE: Savannah’s family has started the Savannah Buik Memorial Fund, which enables you to make a gift to the Club in her honor. Donate through the drop-down menu here. Thank you!

AAC Celebrates Women's History Month

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Photo: climber Margaret Griffin, in camp and on Mount Baker, ca. 1920.

Women are sending the hardest routes out there and putting up first ascents worldwide. We couldn't be more excited to celebrate these feats this month and see where women lead the climbing community next!

Check out our Women Mountaineers exhibit, created in partnership with the Mazamas and Colorado Mountain Club Libraries, and our Women in Climbing Timeline.  

If you're in Colorado's Front Range, join us at the Women's HERstory Month gathering the evening of March 28th at our headquarters in Golden. 

Here's to the ladies who strengthen our community! 


North American Ice Climbing Championships Next Weekend

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The 2018 North American Ice Climbing Championships will take place March 16-17 in Fenton, Michigan. The Championships are open to all athletes with experience in ice climbing or drytooling.  Previous competition experience is not required. Spectator entrance is free.

Interested in joining the fun? Learn the details. 


Meet Your New AAC Board President: Deanne Buck

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Meet Deanne Buck, our new AAC president! Deanne is everywhere in the outdoor industry: on the wall, on the trails, at the head of Camber Outdoors, and now leading our dynamic Board of Directors. We're thrilled to benefit from her leadership and expertise in this role.


March 1, 2018, Golden, CO— The American Alpine Club (AAC), America’s oldest non-profit organization for climbers, is thrilled to announce Deanne Buck as incoming President of the AAC Board of Directors. Buck joins the AAC as Executive Director at Camber Outdoors, a non-profit organization dedicated to promoting more inclusive, innovative active-outdoor industries through gender diversity in the workplace.

As a young person growing up in Grand Island, Nebraska, Buck credits a “25-foot high wood panel wall at a YMCA” as having changed her life. From these humble beginnings, Buck went on to integrate climbing and advocacy for climbers as a central purpose to her life. Following graduation from law school, Buck found herself working with climbing brands as an attorney until eventually joining the Access Fund as Program Director in 2003. In 2010, Buck joined the AAC as Development Director, later transitioning to a volunteer position on the AAC’s Board of Directors.  

 

Much of Buck’s professional work has focused around making outdoor experiences more accessible, both in terms of land use policy and promoting equity and diversity. Of her appointment to lead the American Alpine Club into the future, Buck says, "I am honored and humbled to serve as the President of the AAC as we are poised to move into our next chapter of influence and inclusion."

 

Phil Powers, CEO of the AAC noted both Buck’s resume and her perspective of inclusion, “Deanne’s impressive history of advocating for climbers, negotiating conservation solutions, and advancing inclusivity makes her the clear choice for President. It's a challenging job, and I know she’ll do it well.”

Buck will succeed Matt Culbertson, who has served as AAC Board President from 2016-2018.

The AAC is 20,000 Members Strong

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We’re proud to celebrate the 20,000 member milestone: 20,000 individual climbers believe supporting community, conservation, and education is a worthwhile investment. Woohoo! We asked 20 members to tell us about their dream climbs, their motivation, and how they give back—learn more about your fellow members here.

We're also offering a sweet Members with Benefits T-Shirt to anyone who joins or renews during the month of January, so there's never been a better time to join the community. 

We're grateful for every one of you!


January 19, 2018, Golden, CO—The American Alpine Club, the country’s oldest and largest climbing and mountaineering member organization, has hit a new benchmark of over 20,000 members. Record membership comes at a time when climbing is blossoming across the US, especially in urban areas and indoor climbing faciliaties. The American Alpine Club, founded in 1902 primarily as a social club for elite adventurers, has evolved significantly over the last century to meet the changing needs of the US climbing community.

As a champion for climbing advocacy, community, and the preservation of climbing landscapes, The American Alpine Club has steadily expanded its operations to include lodging and camping solutions adjacent to popular climbing areas, offer grants to support environmental conversation and climbing exploration, provide educational opportunities to beginner climbers, and continue to host community events like the Craggin’ Classics, Hueco Rock Rodeo, and the International Climbers’ Meet (ICM).

“Watching our membership quadruple to 20,000 over the last few years has been a testament to our community and what we can do together,” said Phil Powers, CEO of The American Alpine Club, “The benefits are great but people stay because they care about sharing knowledge, participating in efforts to conserve our climbing environment and advocating for the landscapes in which we climb."

Join the club and learn more about the AAC’s impact by visiting: www.americanalpineclub.org

2018 Cutting Edge Grant Recipients Announced

The AAC is pleased to announce the recipients of the 2018 Cutting Edge Grant. This grant seeks to fund individuals planning expeditions to remote areas featuring unexplored mountain ranges, unclimbed peaks, difficult new routes, first free ascents, or similar world-class pursuits. Objectives featuring a low-impact style and leave-no-trace mentality are looked upon with favor.  For the 2018 grant cycle, the AAC received awarded $20,000 to four recipients:

Kurt Ross ($6,000) to visit a seldom traveled region within the eastern Pakistani
Karakoram to establish a first ascent on the unclimbed peak, Karmading Brakk via
the Lachit Valley. This 6000m peak is an untouched gem, so striking it certainly
would have been previously attempted had it not been for historically restrictive
military control in the area. With these military restricts lifted, and the government
currently granting permits to climbers, Kurt and his team are ready for action.

Alan Rousseau ($6,000) to attempt the remote north face of Chiling II (6400m), in
Zanskar-Kashmir- Kishtwar region of Himal India. With a difficult, mostly
unsupported approach and hard climbing at altitude, this objective represents a
step forward in Alan’s climbing and likely one of the harder north faces he and his
team have ever attempted.

Whitney Clark ($5,000) to lead an all-woman team to the Zanskar-Kashmir-
Kishtwar region of Himal India to attempt the main summit of Arjuna’s (6230m)
West Face. Their chosen route takes the team up a steep 1400m unclimbed buttress, which lies to the left of all current established routes. The peak is accessed via a complex icefall, followed by technical high-alpine climbing. It is their goal to climb the route free and operate in a fast, light ethic.

Ryan Johnson ($3,000) to travel to the Alaska Range to attempt the East Face of Mt. Hayes (4215m). Ryan attempted the line in 2013 but extreme cold and illness
shut down the expedition. The line on Hayes is primarily an ice hose, with a 600m
steep mixed section.

The Cutting Edge Grant is supported in part by Global Rescue, the world’s leading provider of integrated travel risk and evacuation memberships. CEG recipients are additionally awarded a one-year, full Global Rescue Membership—an upgrade to the standard AAC rescue coverage. Upgraded benefits include: $500,000 of rescue evacuation; repatriation back to the US; deployed Global Rescue Personnel; and more—a service intended to help AAC members climb hard and return home safely. For more information on Global Rescue and their memberships, visit: https://www.globalrescue.com/

AAC's 2017 Recap

Hover over the yellow bubbles to learn more.

It's been quite a year here at the American Alpine Club, and we couldn't have done it without you. Your Craggin' Classic weekends, Sharp End downloads, letters to your representatives, lobbying efforts, research projects and grants and dreams— it all makes a difference. We're wrapping up 2017 feeling immense gratitude for all we've accomplished together and a whole lot of hope for everything to come. From all of us at the Club, thank you and happy holidays!